HONDURAS. 


GENERAL  BOGRAN, 


IMvsiiU-ni   <>1    Honduras. 


HONDURAS: 


THE  LAND  OP  GEEAT  DEPTHS. 


MAP    AND    PORTRAITS. 


CECIL    CHAKLES, 

AUTHOR  OP  "SAN  JOSE  DE  COSTA  RICA,"  TRANSLATOR  OF 
BIOLLEY'S  "COSTA  RICA  AND  HER  FUTURE,"  ETC. 


CHICAGO   AND   NEW   YORK: 

RAND,  MCNALLY  &  COMPANY,  PUBLISHERS, 

1890. 


COPYRIGHT,  1890,  BY  RAND,  MCNALLY  &  Co.,  CHICAGO. 


TO 

THE  PRESIDENT   OF  HONDURAS, 
SENOR    GENERAL   DON    LUIS    BOGRAN, 

IN  TESTIMONY  OF 
ADMIRATION  AND  ESTEEM. 


(5) 

93585 


CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTION. 
PART  I.— SADDLE  AND  HAMMOCK.  Page. 

I.  Getting  Ashore  and  a  Start 11 

II.  On  the  Road  up  to  the  Capital 20 

III.  Tegucigalpa,  City  of  the  Silver  Hills 25 

IV.  Sunshine  and  Storm 36 

V.  How  to  be  Comfortable 44 

PART  II.— ROCK  AND  RIVER. 

I.  The  Oldest  Mines 53 

II.  Mines  of  Importance : 62 

III.  Life  in  a  Mining  Camp 71 

IV.  Some  Suggestions :\ 80 

V.  The  Opals  of  Honduras 86 

PART  III. — IMMIGRATION  AND  AGRICULTURE. 

I.  Some  Plans  and  Attempts  to  Colonize 91 

II.  Mr.  Packer's  Diary 95 

III.  Condition  of  the  Country 102 

IV.  Some  Folks  You  May  or  May  Not  Meet 114 

V.  Some  Hints  for  Agriculturists 120 

VI.  Live-stock,  Poultry,  Etc 136 

VII.  The  Pita 142 

PART  IV.— HAMMOCK  AND  SADDLE. 

I.  The  First  Day  Out 149 

II.  Night  in  a  Hammock 158 

III.  Comayagua 164 

IV.  On  to  Yojoa 170 


8  CONTENTS. 

Page. 

V.  The  Finish 176 

VI.  A  Resum6 181 

APPENDIX. 

General  Information . .  187 

Some  Spanish  Words 191 

Nomenclature 193 

Importations  of  Merchandise 195 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  preparation  of  this  little  work,  upon  a 
country  in  which  it  was  my  good  fortune  to  pass 
many  happy  days,  and  among  the  people  of 
which  I  trust  that  even  in  absence  I  may  count 
warm  friends,  has  been  from  first  to  last  a 
labor  of  love.  Realizing  at  the  outset  that  this 
would  prove  the  case,  and  that  under  such 
circumstances  the  danger  of  depicting  with 
over-enthusiasm  must  be  guarded  against,  I 
determined  to  write  with  moderation  upon 
all  topics  introduced.  It  is  possible  that  in 
my  desire  not  to  err  in  the  one  direction  I 
have  gone  too  far  to  the  other  extreme,  and 
allowed  some  chapters  to  become  more  prosy 
than  was  necessary. 

Nevertheless,  the  purpose  of  the  book  is  less 
to  entertain  the  casual  reader  than  to  supply 
practical  information  to  a  vast  number  of  per- 
sons who  contemplate  seeking  their  fortunes 
in  Honduras,  and  who  desire  to  become  ac- 
quainted first  with  some  of  its  customs, 
resources,  and  industries.  To  such  I  believe  it 

(9) 


10  INTRODUCTION. 

will  prove  of  value,  as  far  as  the  experience  of 
one  person  may  avail  another. 

I  have  to  acknowledge  the  very  valuable 
assistance  afforded  me  by  the  Honduras 
Progress  and  its  able  editor,  Dr.  R.  Fritz- 
gartner,  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  informa- 
tion unobtainable  elsewhere.  I  have  quoted 
also  from  various  other  writers  of  interesting 
articles,  to  whom  I  have  not  failed  to  credit 
the  quoted  extracts,  and  to  whom  I  am  under 
lasting  obligations. 

If  the  book  shall  prove  successful  in  that 
for  which  it  is  intended,  I  shall  be  more  than 

content-  as 

THE  AUTHOR. 


DR.   FRITZGARTNER. 


M 


THE  REPUBLIC  OF  HONDURAS. 


PART   I. 

SADDLE   AND   HAMMOCK. 


I. 

GETTING  ASHORE  AND  A  START. 

It  was  August  when  I  first  arrived  in  Teguci- 
galpa. I  am  sure  I  shall  never  forget  riding  in 
through  Comayguela,  where  all  the  people — or 
it  seemed  all — came  to  the  door- ways  and  out 
into  the  street  to  survey  the  newest  "  Gringos." 
It  was  late  afternoon.  I  was  very  tired,  very 
stiff,  very  sun-burned,  very  humble  in  the  con- 
sciousness of  not  knowing  how  to  sit  a  mule 
with  a  hard  gait  or  to  speak  Spanish.  The 
journey  up  from  Amapala  had  been  exhausting. 
I  do  not  know  why  people  should  prefer  to  go 
to  Honduras  via  the  Isthmus  and  Amapala.  It 
is  so  much  more  direct  by  New  Orleans  and 
Puerto  Cortez.  Nevertheless,  I  had  left  New 
York  by  the  Pacific  Mail  steamer  of  July  1st, 
had  landed  on  the  10th  in  Colon,  and  remained 


12  THE  REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

there  over  night,  although  the  mosquitoes  held 
the  most  extraordinary  sort  of  bacchanalian 
revels  inside  my  mosquito  canopy,  and  sleep 
was  difficult.  Next  day  I  had  crossed  the 
Isthmus,  by  rail,  and  sailed  at  seven  p.  M.  in 
a  dubious  coasting  steamer  (since  discarded) 
with  one  of  the  kindest  and  cleverest  com- 
manders that  exist.  The  coasting  steamer 
touched  at  Puntarenas,  Costa  Rica,  where  I 
went  ashore  to  stand  for  the  first  time  on  Cen- 
tral American  soil — San  Juan  del  Sur,  and  Co- 
rinto  of  Nicaragua  in  turn.  On  the  fifth  night 
we  should  have  dropped  anchor  before  twelve 
in  Amapala  Bay,  but  a  tremendous  storm  made 
imperative  our  putting  out  to  sea.  It  was  near 
morning  when  the  anchor  was  down  and  a  couple 
of  small  boats  brought  out  waiting  friends  to 
board  the  steamer.  Large  vessels  do  not  make 
the  wharf  in  Amapala. 

We  did  not  go  ashore  until  six  o'clock. 
Dawn  brought  slowly  out  of  the  soft  obscurity 
— for  after  the  storm  there  was  the  infinite 
quietude  of  a  moonless  tropical  night — a  sweet 
and  smiling  picture,  Tigre  Island  with  its 
splendid  verdure,  its  sunlit  shores  inviting  to 
a  new  world.  The  queer  little  garrison  of 
barefooted,  jean-clad  soldiers  interested  me  on 


GETTING  ASHORE  AND   A   START.  13 

landing.  They  filed  from  the  cuartel  down 
to  the  plaza,  drilled  a  little,  were  inspected, 
and  returned  to  their  quarters.  But  for  the 
bugle  notes  and  the  soft  sounds  of  the  sea- 
water,  the  place  was  utterly  quiet. 

The  main  street  still  showed  signs  of  the 
previous  night's  storm;  but  the  sky  above  was 
a  glorious  azure.  As  the  sun  rose  gradually 
higher  and  higher,  the  light  grew  more  daz- 
zling upon  land  and  sea.  The  blaze  was  intense 
on  one  who  stood  out  of  the  shade;  but  under 
an  umbrella  or  in  the  shadow  of  a  door- way, 
one  only  felt  the  cool,  pure  sweep  of  wind  from 
the  sea. 

I  remained  in  Amapala  until  about  noon, 
when,  having  breakfasted  very  comfortably 
and  passed  the  custom-house  scrutinies,  I  again 
embarked  for  the  mainland. 

The  breakfast,  it  may  be  mentioned  without 
irrelevance,  consisted  of  eggs,  fried  chicken, 
fried  oysters,  frijoles,  tortillas,  cheese,  excel- 
lent bread,  super-excellent  coffee  with  milk, 
and  wine.  It  was  provided  by  a  sort  of  inn, 
dignified  with  the  name  "hotel." 

The  voyage  to  the  mainland*  was  about  my 

*  A  small  steamer  now  makes  regular  trips  from  Amapala 
to  San  Loren/o  mid  La  Brea. 


14  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

first  curious  experience  in  the  country.  The 
boat  was  apparently  nothing  but  a  huge  hol- 
lowed-out  tree.  It  had  a  captain  and  half  a 
dozen  oarsmen.  It  was  provided  with  one  sail 
and  a  canvas  covering,  which,  however,  we 
asked  to  have  removed,  preferring  to  bear  the 
unhindered  blaze  of  the  sun  rather  than  shut 
out  the  splendid  sea-breeze.  The  luggage  filled 
the  bottom  of  the  boat,  and  we  sat  upon  it.  The 
captain  steered  at  the  stern,  and  the  rowers 
occupied  the  forward  part.  They  were  the  first 
copper-hued  sons  of  Honduras  that  I  made  any 
studies  of.  They  wore  two  garments — white 
jacket  and  trousers — and  a  hat  to  begin.  When 
they  had  become  pretty  warm  from  rowing, 
they  stripped  off  the  jackets  and  stood  revealed, 
without  thought  of  immodesty,  in  all  their 
pride  of  muscular  biceps  and  bronze  statue- 
like  chests.  Their  oars  were  broom-shaped  two- 
piece  affairs,  which  they  handled  somewhat 
like  brooms,  reminding  me  of  the  old  lady  in 
Stockton's  story,  who  swept  herself  ashore 
after  the  shipwreck. 


The  voyage  to  the  mainland  was  long  enough 
to  be  tedious,  save  for  the  diversion  of  watch- 
ing the  crew.  They  did  not  all  row  at  once, 


GETTING   ASHORE   AND   A   START.  15 

"but  took  turns  at  it,  and  by-and-by  they 
hoisted  the  sail  and  let  the  wind  carry  us 
along.  The  captain  maintained  a  dignified  but 
smiling  countenance,  and  steered  us  slowly 
toward  the  green  banks  of  the  mainland. 

It  was  six  in  the  evening  when  we  sprang 
upon  terra  firma  at  San  Lorenzo. 

It  was  not  much  of  a  place.  There  was  one 
habitation,  a  bodega  or  warehouse.  But  there 
were  two  clever  young  English-speaking  gen- 
tlemen to  interpret  and  give  points,  and,  in 
short,  behave  most  sweetly  toward  a  bewildered 
new  arrival. 

The  pack  and  saddle  mules  for  our  party 
were  in  waiting;  but  we  decided  to  remain  in 
the  bodega  all  night  and  make  an  early  morn- 
ing start. 

We  had  comida.  1  will  say  frankly  it  was 
very  plain,  gotten  up  rather  extempore,  cooked 
on  one  of  the  out-door  native  stoves.  I  believe 
it  consisted  of  eggs,  tortillas,  queso,  and  coffee 
without  milk.  It  was,  however,  wholesome 
and  satisfying,  for  we  were  hungry. 

The  night  in  the  bodega  was  not  altogether 
pleasant.  We  foreigners  slept  in  our  ham- 
mocks. There  were  seven  human  beings,  two 
or  more  pigs,  half  a  dozen  chickens,  a  rooster 


16  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 


who  crowed  conscientiously,  and  not  a  few 
insects.  I  was  glad  enough  when  the  first 
streak  of  daylight  crept  through  the  wide 
cracks  about  the  door.  The  bodega  keeper  and 
his  wife  arose  and  went  forth  about  their  duties. 
The  rest  of  us  were  not  slow  to  quit  our  ham- 
mock suspense,  or  suspension,  and  after  coffee 
and  pan  dulce,  we  were  in  the  saddle. 

I  am  ready  to  acknowledge  that  until  that 
moment  I  never  really  knew  what  riding 
meant.  It  was  not  at  all  like  having  a  noble 
saddle-horse  in  the  bridle-path  of  Central  Park, 
or  on  the  boulevards  of  some  breezy  Western 
city.  It  was  being  pounded  up  and  down  on 
the  hardest-gaited  old  villain  of  a  quadruped 
that  ever  wagged  his  long  ears  or  flourished  his 
heels  in  the  air. 

The  sun  grew  very  hot  as  we  rode.  The 
country  was  level;  the  scenery  was  not  es- 
pecially tropical.  There  was  not  the  sight 
of  a  human  habitation,  but  now  and  then  we 
met  pack-mules  and  their  owners  plodding 
contentedly  behind  them.  Being  new  to  a 
mule's  back,  I  was  not  always  securely  seated; 
my  hat  would  bob  over  my  eyes,  and  a  cramp 
crept  into  my  knees.  I  was  uncomfortable 
and  cross  before  reaching  Pespire.  Had  we 


GETTING   ASHORE  AND   A   START.  17 

made  fairly  good  time,  we  should  have  reached 
Pespire  at  ten  or  eleven  o'  clock  at  the  latest. 
It  is  but  twenty  miles  inland.  The  road  is 
excellent,  being  the  first  twenty  miles  of  the 
wagon-way  constructed  by  President  Bogran 
from  the  coast  to  the  capital,  at  a  cost  of  a 
hundred  thousand  dollars.  Ox-carts  travel 
over  it,  but  the  most  of  the  freight  is  carried 
on  mule-back — two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds 
equally  divided — two  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  pound  packages  or  boxes  constituting  a 
load.  Strangers  going  to  Honduras  should 
always  remember  to  carry  small  stout  trunks 
in  pairs,  not  weighing  over  one  hundred,  or  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  pounds  at  most,  apiece. 
With  luggage  in  this  convenient  shape,  one 
can  get  about  easily  and  without  delay. 
Mules  can  be  obtained  at  Pespire  at  from  five 
to  ten  dollars  apiece  for  freight  or  passenger 
transportation  to  the  capital.  I  have  heard 
some  talk  of  a  pony  express  between  Teguci- 
galpa and  San  Lorenzo,  but  the  project  has 
never  been  definitely  undertaken.  It  would 
pay,  I  believe,  for  there  is  a  vast  amount  of 
freight  brought  by  steamers  to  Amapala  and 
lightered  over  to  the  mainland,  to  lie  waiting 
its  turn  in  the  bodega  for  weeks,  if  not  months. 


18  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

I  remember  a  gentleman  who  ordered  a  dress 
suit  to  be  sent  him  from  New  York  for  the 
Fourth  of  July.  It  was  sent  promptly  and 
arrived  up  at  the  capital  at  the  Christmas 
holidays. 

We  did  not  reach  Pespire  until  after  one 
o'clock,  the  very  hottest  part  of  the  day.  We 
found  a  pretty  little  white  adobe  town,  with  a 
cathedral  in  Moorish  style  of  architecture.  A 
wide  but  shallow  river  flows  through  the  town. 
The  white  stones  of  its  bed  blaze  dazzlingly  in 
the  noon-day  sun,  and  he  who  touches  them 
with  his  bare  fingers  is  apt  to  get  a  bad  burn. 

Pespire  is  one  of  the  principal  towns  of 
the  department  of  Choluteca.  But  it  has  no 
hotel  accommodations.  The  best  arrangement 
you  can  make  will  give  you  but  a  room 
—empty  of  furniture,  but  probably  having 
human  occupants — in  which  to  swing  your 
hammock.  If  you  are  acquainted  with  any 
of  the  principal  mining  companies,  or  bring 
letters  to  their  managers,  you  may  be  accom- 
modated with  a  canvas  cot  and  a  blanket  or 
two  at  one  of  their  agencies.  Fortunately,  I 
was  so  circumstanced.  I  had  not  wished  or 
intended  to  remain  over  night  in  Pespire.  It 
was  our  plan  to  proceed  to  La  Venta,  twelve 


GETTING   ASHORE  AND   A   START.  19 

miles  further  on — a  place  that  is  a  thousand 
feet  above  sea-level.  It  is  well,  as  a  rule,  for 
strangers  arriving  for  the  iirst  time  in  Honduras 
to  make  haste  up  to  the  interior,  and  to  remain 
there  until  acclimated — not  that  the  coast  is 
such  a  deadly  place  as  some  would  have  one 
believe,  but  as  a  matter  of  precaution.  At  the 
time  I  am  writing  of  I  had  more  than  an  ordi- 
nary fear  of  tropical  lowlands.  The  remark 
of  a  certain  gentleman,  who,  as  the  general 
manager  of  an  important  mining  company,  was 
in  the  habit  of  taking  out  a  number  of  Amer- 
ican employes  with  him  every  year  from  New 
York  to  Honduras,  had  made  a  deep  impression 
upon  me.  The  remark  was  to  the  effect  that, 
having  once  landed  on  Honduras  soil,  he  never 
allowed  his  party  to  rest  for  a  moment,  day  or 
night,  until  they  had  reached  LaVenta;  because, 
he  said,  he  did  not  carry  coffins  witJi  Jiim. 
Months  afterward  I  discovered  his  reason  for 
this  ghastly  exaggeration  in  the  fact  that  he 
desired  to  prevent  the  wives  of  some  of  the 
employes  he  was  taking  out  wishing  to  accom- 
pany them.  Women  in  a  mining  camp  always 
made  trouble,  he  said. 

We  had  breakfast  at  Pespire,  brought  to  us 
at  the  mining  company's  agency.     It  was  re- 


20  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

markably  good,  or  else  we  were  very  hungry. 
None  but  the  natives  have  the  peculiar  knack 
of  cooking  the  frijoles  so  that  you  can  eat  a 
platter  full  and  sigh  for  greater  capacity.  The 
coffee,  too,  was  so  good  !  I  can  not  understand 
why  such  vile  decoctions  are  served  to  one  on 
certain  steamship  lines  under  the  name  of  this 
delicious  beverage.  And  in  Honduras  we  had 
the  reality  to  contrast  with  the  base  imitation 
of  the  past  fortnight. 

When  we  had  finished,  it  was  nearly  three 
o'clock.  The  sky. had  clouded  over.  Soon  a 
splendid  tropical  rain-storm,  with  occasional 
thunderous  reverberations,  had  burst  upon  us. 
It  rained  tremendously  for  an  hour  or  two. 
The  Pespire  agent  persuaded  us  that  it  would 
be  highly  unwise  to  set  out  again  that  night. 
He  was  hospitable  in  regard  to  cots  and  bed- 
clothes, and  we  concluded  to  remain  and  make 
an  early  start. 


II. 

ON  THE  ROAD  UP  TO  THE  CAPITAL. 

From  Pespire  to  La  Venta  is  an  easy  ride,  and 
yet  an  uneasy  one.  The  distance  is  slight- 
twelve  miles  at  a  guess.  But  what  ups  and 


ON  THE  ROAD  UP  TO  THE  CAPITAL.    21 

downs !  What  climbings  to  rise  a  thousand 
feet  above  the  ocean!  Now  the  difference  be- 
tween the  two  worlds,  the  temperate  and  the 
tropical  begins  to  dawn  upon  the  traveler. 
Now,  in  the  fresh  of  the  early  morning,  ere  the 
sun  is  high  enough  to  scorch  your  shoulders 
and  arms — which,  by  the  way,  you  will  be  wise 
to  cover  with  a  large  white  towel — you  gaze 
on  either  side  of  your  path  and  begin  to  feel  a 
sense  of  strangeness.  There  is  a  curious,  broken 
look  of  the  ground.  As  a  gentleman  once  said 
to  me,  it  looks  as  if  Omnipotent  hands  had 
caught  up  huge  masses  of  rock  and  earth  and 
flung  them  hither  and  thither  to  form  an  awe- 
inspiring,  inexplicable  region  of  wildness. 

Now  the  traveler  begins  to  realize  for  the  first 
time  the  beauty  of  the  prosaic  mule.  This 
beauty  lies  wholly  in  his  sure  and  wise  footed- 
ness.  He  steps  cautiously  down  the  stony 
road  where  it  makes  an  abrupt  descent;  he 
leaps  an  ugly  rut;  he  springs  nimbly  up  a  hill; 
he  keeps  on  cheerfully  and  sagely,  and  does  all 
the  necessary  thinking  for  you — except  that  as 
to  how  you  shall  best  sit  in  your  saddle. 

La  Venta  is  a  small  adobe  village.  There  is 
a  posada,  which  you  easily  find  on  inquiry. 
Your  animals  should  be  rested  here,  and  fed  if 


22  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

you  like.  The  old  woman  of  the  posada  is  not 
especially  agile,  but  she  can  get  you  a  good 
breakfast.  We  had  the  native  dishes — eggs, 
chicken,  tortillas,  and  beans.  The  house  was 
but  a  single-roomed  hut,  clean,  with  an  earthen 
floor.  A  hammock  swung  in  the  center,  into 
which  I  piled  rather  stiffly,  I  remember,  and 
frofti  which  breakfast  was  hardly  enough  to 
tempt  me  to  rise. 

The  old  lady  overcharged  us  for  the  meal, 
but  we  did  not  complain.  We  started  out 
bravely  again.  This  time  we  had  a  much 
longer  distance  to  cover  before  nightfall,  that 
of  ten  leguas,  about  thirty  miles,  which,  with 
the  morning's  twelve,  would  make  the  day's 
journey  forty-two  miles.  This  would  bring  us 
to  Sabanagrande. 

At  this  place  were  several  Americans  of  the 
San  Marcos  Mining  Company,  to  whom  we  had 
introductions,  and  we  felt  assured  of  kindly 
courtesies.  There  was  no  hotel  then,  as  there  is 
at  present.  We  did  not  make  great  speed  that 
afternoon.  At  first  the  landscape  interested 
us,  and  we  rode  slowly  to  look  around.  The 
pita  and  the  various  cacti,  of  which  we  knew 
absolutely  nothing — not  even  a  name— became 
frequent.  The  road  was  fairly  good,  but  that 


ON  THE  ROAD  UP  TO  THE  CAPITAL.    23 

there  was  a  great  deal  of  climbing  and  a  greater 
deal  of  jogging  down  into  little  declivities, 
which  to  a  saddle-sore  traveler  is  anything  but 
bliss.  The  afternoon  fled.  All  of  a  sudden 
dusk  came  on.  We  were  not  there.  We  beat 
up  our  weary  animals,  and  kept  on  for  another 
hour  or  two.  My  companion  tried  to  cheer  me 
up,  but  I  was  on  the  brink  of  a  breaking- 
down  when  at  last  we  reached  the  village. 

The  door  of  one  of  the  little  low  houses 
opened  as  we  rode  up.  There  was  the  glow  of 
warm  lamp-light,  kindly  American  voices,  and 
the  smell  of  freshly  steeped  tea ! 

They  had  expected  us,  and  supper  was  pre- 
pared. I  don't  know  that  anything  else  ever 
tasted  as  good  to  me  as  that  tea.  We  occupied 
the  newly  built  house  of  a  gentleman  who  was 
absent  at  a  camp  several  leagues  distant,  but 
who,  knowing  we  were  coming,  had  most  kindly 
tendered  us  his  dwelling  for  the  night.  It  was 
only  a  two-room  affair,  with  rough  inner  walls 
and  a  door  through  which  daylight  crept  in 
wide  bars  early  the  next  morning;  but  it  was 
clean,  and  there  was  a  comfortable  bed  and 
wash-stand  and  a  small  looking-glass.  It 
seemed  like  recovering  civilization. 

The  distance  on  to  Tegucigalpa  now  was  but 


24  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

thirty  miles,  mostly  a  splendid  road.  Much 
refreshed  by  a  good  rest  and  sound  sleep — the 
muscular  lameness,  having  disappeared,  as  it 
always  does  after  the  second  day  in  the  saddle 
— we  made  excellent  time.  Now  we  were  on 
the  heights.  At  one  point  we  could  see  Tegu- 
cigalpa glistening  whitely  in  the  distance, 
twenty  miles  away.  The  sun  ascended  the 
heavens,  and  its  rays  burnt  upon  us  when 
we  rode  out  from  under  the  shade  of  magnifi- 
cent trees;  but  we  did  not  mind  this,  for  the 
splendid  breeze  of  the  mountains  swept  to  and 
fro,  refreshing  and  invigorating  us.  Half-way 
to  the  capital  we  were  galloping  across  Cerro 
de  Hule,  a  grand  wind-swept  table-like  sum- 
mit, five  or  six  thousand  feet  above  sea-level. 
Here  it  was  deliciously  cool.  There  was  a  fine 
mist  in  the  air.  A  solitary  house,  known  to  my 
companions  as  a  posada,  from  previous  investi- 
gations, became  apparent  at  noon.  We  made 
a  brief  stop  and  obtained  milk  and  tortillas. 

From  Cerro  de  Hule  on  to  Tegucigalpa  we 
could  have  driven  a  four-in-hand.  There  was 
no  more  fording  of  streams  or  threading  of 
precipitous  winding  paths.  The  wide  road  was 
white  and  smooth,  a  veritable  boulevard.  The 
road-bed  looked  to  be  of  limestone.  There 


CITY   OF  THE  SILVER  HILLS.  25 

were  capital  bridges.  We  began  to  see  fenced- 
in  property,  with  stone  walls  and  cactus 
hedges,  and  to  guess  at  farms  and  estates. 
The  indescribable  opulence  of  tropical  nature 
was  more  strikingly  perceptible  now,  because 
placed  in  contrast  with  the  elements  of  civili- 
zation. 

We  began  to  see  houses,  comfortable  looking 
places,  mostly  of  one  story,  to  be  sure,  but  long 
and  of  ample  breadth,  with  airy  porches,  in 
whose  shade  hammocks  swung  invitingly. 
Built  of  adobe,  like  almost  all  the  buildings, 
and  roofed  with  the  heavy  red  tiles  that  cost 
about  two  cents  apiece  and  are  used  by  the 
thousand  for  all  dwellings,  the  interiors  could 
not  be  other  than  impervious  alike  to  heat  or 
dampness,  and  comfortable  in  proportion. 

It  was  after  six  when  we  rode  through  Co- 
mayguela,  that  supplementary  part  of  Teguci- 
galpa which  lies  on  the  other  side  of  the  Rio 
Grande. 


III. 

TEGUCIGALPA,   CITY  OF  THE  SILVER  HILLS. 

I  could  make  a  book  entire  about  this  quaint 
and  quiet  town.  It  is  situated  about  three 
thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  sea-level, 


26  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

upon  a  plateau  enclosed  by  mountains  rising 
some  three  thousand  feet  still  higher.  To 
the  north  and  immediately  back  of  the  city 
is  "  LaLeona,"  of  volcanic  formation.  Up  and 
around  the  side  of  this  mountain,  one  sees  the 
white  cart-road  leading  off  to  San  Juancito, 
twenty  miles  distant,  where  are  situated  the 
Rosario  Mining  Company's  works.  By  and 
by — not  yet — we  shall  set  off  thither. 

There  are  three  or  four  good  hotels  at  Tegu- 
cigalpa. If  you  stop,  as  I  did,  not  far  from 
the  presidential  palace,  you  are  quite  in  the 
center  of  town,  convenient  to  the  post-office, 
the  plaza,  the  cathedral. 

Very  early  in  the  morning  you  awaken, 
against  your  will.  They  are  beating  the  re- 
veille in  the  cuartel.  The  notes  of  the  bugle 
come  sweetly  out  of  the  distance.  You  open 
your  still  heavy  eyes  and  see  chinks  of  light 
overhead.  They  grow  wider  and  brighter  as 
you  gaze.  You  study  them  uncomprehend- 
ingly  for  awhile.  The  room  is  dark  otherwise. 
After  awhile  you  crawl  out  of  bed,  feel  for 
your  shoes,  and  put  them  on  with  vague  appre- 
hensions of  alacranes.  Then  you  grope  your 
way  to  the  window,  which  is  perhaps  window 
and  door  combined.  After  fumbling  for  a  time, 


CITY   OF   THE   SILVER  rflLLS.  27 

you  grasp  a  monstrous  iron  bolt  and  slip  it 
back.  The  ponderous  wooden  shutters — there 
are  few  glass  windows  in  the  country — swing 
open.  All  the  splendid  freshness  of  the  morn- 
ing pours  in  and  blinds  you  for  the  moment. 
You  stand  there  dazzled  by  the  beauty  of  the 
heavens;  you  draw  long,  delicious  breaths.  Oh, 
this  is  weather  that  they  might  have  in  Para- 
dise ! 

Already — perhaps  it  is  six  o'clock — people 
are  astir  in  the  streets.  They  rise  early.  You 
'dress  yourself  and  hurry  out  to  the  dining- 
room.  It  is  a  bare-looking  place  with  imita- 
tion stone  floor,  some  little  tables  and  chairs. 
There  are  great  windows  with  their  heavy  shut- 
ters wide  open,  through  which  the  wind  sweeps 
coolly  and  the  pleasant  sunlight  looks  in.  If 
you  do  not  hurry  and  take  your  coffee  and 
pan  dulce  or  pan  frances,  you  will  be  in  dan- 
ger of  feeling  a  most  untropical  appetite  for 
breakfast,  which  is  not  served  before  ten  or 
eleven  o'clock. 

After  taking  coffee  you  will  do  well  to  set  out 
and  see  the  town.  But  it  is  so  strangely  quiet, 
you  say.  Even  so.  There  are  no  noisy  mills, 
or  factories,  no  steam-whistles,  no  engine-bells, 
not  even  the  rattling  of  carriage-wheels  in  the 


28  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

narrow  streets  of  Tegucigalpa.  There  are  only 
the  human  footfalls  and  the  sound  of  human 
voices,  or  the  soft-stepping  unshod  horses  and 
mules  with  their  packs  projecting  on  either 
side,  or  at  rare  intervals  a  curious  two-wheeled 
chariot  drawn  by  oxen. 

Here  at  Tegucigalpa — an  Indian  name  signi- 
fying city  of  the  silver  hills — is  the  seat  of 
government.  That  two-story  curious  building, 
pleasantly  painted  in  drab  and  rose-color,  is  the 
President's  palace.  It  is  an  extensive  build- 
ing; its  walls  are  of  tremendous  thickness,  and 
the  interior  is  well  furnished.  Here,  during 
certain  hours  of  the  day,  anyone  may  obtain 
audience  with  a  truly  American  President, 
General  Don  Luis  Bogran. 

Passing  on  down  the  street  which  leads  to  the 
fine  stone  bridge  across  the  Rio  Grande  to 
Comayguela — the  same  bridge,  several  hundred 
feet  in  length,  over  which  you  rode  into  the 
city  on  your  arrival — you  come  to  the  post- 
office  and  the  central  telegraph  office.  The 
postal  system  is  very  good,  and  the  telegraphic 
supposed  to  be  excellent,  the  general  superin- 
tendent of  both  being  an  American,  Mr.  Bert 
Cecil.  If  you  keep  on  down  to  the  river  you 
may  see  some  of  the  native  washerwomen  beat- 


CITY   OF  THE  SILVER  HILLS,  29 

ing  the  clothes  to  spotless  whiteness  on  the 
great  stones  below.  But  possibly  you  will  pre- 
fer to  return  and  take  a  look  next  at  the  cathe- 
dral. It  is  of  Moorish  style,  this  great  white 
edifice.  It  has  a  clock,  and  a  bell  that  is  rung 
more  energetically  than  melodiously.  It  is  very 
old.  There  are  no  seats;  pious  people  are  sup- 
posed to  kneel  and  pray  when  they  are  in 
church.  There  is  an  altar  which,  they  say, 
was  once  of  solid  gold,  but  much  of  the  pre- 
cious metal  has  disappeared  in  the  course  of 
years. 

Do  you  care  to  visit  the  university  next? 
It  is  near  the  palace.  Do  you  wish  to  go 
presently  to  a  young  ladies'  seminary  ?  There 
is  one  called  "  El  Progreso."  There  are  eighty 
to  one  hundred  pupils.  The  principal  is  Miss 
Jesusa  Medina,  a  charming  and  clever  young 
lady — not  at  all  the  prim  and  precise  type  of 
lady  teacher  we  know  in  the  United  States 
—who  speaks  English  gracefully,  having  been 
educated  in  Guatemala.  In  this  seminary  are 
taught  all  the  elementary  branches,  languages, 
and  a  good  deal  of  useful  and  ornamental 
handiwork  as  well. 

Before  starting  out  to  see  the  city,  you  will 
most  probably  have  met  a  gentleman  whom  I 


80  THE   EEPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

do  not  hesitate  to  style  the  good  angel  of  the 
foreigners  in  Honduras.  This  is  Dr.  Reinhold 
Fritzgartner,  Government  Geologist,  Inspector- 
General  of  Mines,  and  editor  of  Honduras 
Progress,  a  most  valuable  and  necessary  little 
bi-weekly  newspaper  printed  in  English.  Doc- 
tor Fritzgartner  is  a  Prussian  by  birth,  but 
was  for  some  time  in  the  United  States.  He  is 
a  capital  linguist,  and  his  good  nature,  in  inter- 
preting for  helpless  new  arrivals  is  unfailing. 
If  by  any  chance  you  should  not  yet  have 
met  this  gentleman,  you  should  make  haste  to 
do  so. 

In  front  of  the  cathedral  is  the  park,  Mora- 
zan  Park,  with  Morazan's  statue  in  the  center. 
Great  is  the  name  of  this  hero,  and  great  his 
glory  in  the  land  of  his  birth  to-day,  forty- 
seven  years  after  his  cruel  death  in  another 
republic.  His  tomb,  they  say,  is  in  Salvador. 
But  his  statue,  an  equestrian  figure  in  bronze, 
is  there  in  the  park  of  Tegucigalpa,  and  his 
name  is  spoken,  as  is  that  of  Washington  in 
the  United  States,  with  love  and  reverence, 
nearly  half  a  century  after  his  fall  on  the 
market-place  of  San  Jose  de  Costa  Rica. 
Something  of  a  dreamer  was  Morazan.  He 
had  the  face  of  a  poet.  The  Hondurenos  have 


CITY   OF   THE   SILVER  HILLS.  31 

placed  his  head  upon  all  denominations  of 
their  postage-stamps.  When  I  went  home  to 
breakfast  after  looking  at  the  statue,  I  wrote 
down  a  rhyme  that  had  sung  itself  into  my 
brain  out  there  in  the  sunshine  of  the  park. 
It  was  echo-like  to  what  I  had  been  listening 
about  the  hero  of  Central  American  independ- 
ence, MORAZAN. 

There  are  other  statues  in  the  park — four  of 
them,  one  in  each  corner.  They  represent  the 
four  seasons !  Who  in  the  world  ever  conceived 
the  idea  of  placing  them  there,  I  do  not  know. 
They  are  beautiful  white  pictures,  but  slightly 
incongruous  in  the  land  of  eternal  June. 

Fronting  on  the  streets  that  bound  the  park 
or  square  are  some  of  the  principal  stores 
and  shops.  Many  of  these  occupy  the  front  of 
the  lower  story  of  the  owners'  residences,  for 
there  are  some  two-story  dwellings,  although 
one-story  is>  the  rule.  The  houses  are  built 
even  with  the  street,  and  the  patios  or  inner 
court-yards  are  very  large,  and  usually  contain 
beautiful  gardens  with  orange  and  pomegran- 
ate trees.  When  a  family  gives  a  ball,  the 
patio  is  lighted  with  Japanese  lanterns,  and 
serves  as  a  conservatory  for  lovers  to  stroll  and 
whisper  in. 


32  THE  REPUBLIC   OF   ITONDtJEAS. 

The  social  life  of  Tegucigalpa  is  charming. 
Balls  and  weddings  are  of  frequent  occurrence. 
The  weddings  are  occasions  of  great  rejoicing. 
They  are  of  twelve  hours  duration,  beginning 
usually  at  eight  in  the  evening.  At  that  hour, 
the  invited  friends  having  assembled  at  the 
home  of  the  bride's  parents,  the  civil  ceremony 
takes  place  with  every  due  form.  After  this 
the  priest  appears  and  performs  the  first  part 
of  the  religious  ceremony.  There  is  then  a  sort 
of  intermission.  The  couple  are  not  yet  com- 
pletely married.  Nevertheless,  dancing  and 
feasting  begin.  Champagne  unlimited  flows; 
speeches  and  good- wishes  are  still  more  abun- 
dant. They  keep  it  up  with  unflagging  zest 
until  the  small  hours  of  the  morning.  At  four 
o'clock  the  cathedral  bell  begins  to  ring,  and 
summons  them  to  that  holy  spot.  The  ladies 
throw  their  wraps  about  their  heads  and 
shoulders,  and  bride  and  groom  lead  a  long 
procession,  still  in  full  ball  costume,  through 
the  silent  streets.  The  priest  meets  them  just 
at  the  church  door.  He  reads  a  short  prayer, 
then  gives  the  groom  thirteen  golden  coins. 
The  groom  pours  these  into  the  hand  of  the 
bride,  saying :  ' '  Wife,  take  these  in  significance 
of  our  marriage."  And  the  bride  responds  : 


CITY   OF   THE   SILVER  HILLS.  33 

" Husband,  I  accept  them."  After  this  they 
follow  the  priest  to  the  altar.  A  white  veil  is 
placed  over  the  couple  and  a  golden  chain  to 
encircle  them.  They  remain  thus  enveloped 
and  linked  with  golden  fetters  while  mass  is 
said.  And  so  at  last  they  are  married.  By 
this  time  it  is  broad  daylight.  On  leaving  the 
church  they  proceed  to  their  own  new  home, 
which  is  ready  for  them.  Here  a  wedding 
breakfast  is  laid  for  themselves  and  their  most 
intimate  friends.  One  of  the  dishes  which  is 
never  wanting  is  the  nacatamales,  so  well 
relished  by  all  Central  Americans. 

There  is  very  little  domestic  unhappiness  in 
Honduras.  The  married  couples  are  fond  of 
each  other,  contented,  and  deeply  devoted  to 
their  children.  Love-matches  are  the  rule.  The 
balls  at  the  Christmas  holidays,  and  also  the 
15th  of  September  ball,  which  is  usually  held 
at  the  palace,  are  always  exceedingly  pleas- 
ant affairs.  To  be  really  happy  in  Central 
America,  one  must  dance.  It  is  the  great 
amusement.  There  is  a  good  theatre  in  Tegu- 
cigalpa, but  in  order  to  fully  enjoy  a  perform- 
ance, you  must  understand  some  Spanish. 

I  have  heard  strange  stories  of  buried  treas- 
ure having  been  discovered  under  more  than 

3 


34  THE   EEPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

one  old  house  in  Tegucigalpa.  When  or  why 
it  was  buried  there,  has  never  been  made 
precisely  clear  to  me.  It  seemed  to  have 
been  hidden  by  the  possessors  in  time  of  war, 
when  they  were  forced  to  fly  hastily,  hoping, 
doubtless,  to  return  later  on.  I  have  heard  of 
people  buying  old  places  and  coming  into  sud- 
den fortunes  by  prudent  excavations.  I  have 
heard  of  others  who  dug  so  hard  that  they 
undermined  the  houses,  and  these  collapsed, 
total  ruins,  without  a  sign  of  a  coin  of  any 
description. 

I  would  like  to  be  able  to  give  a  clear  idea 
of  the  houses  of  Tegucigalpa.  Those  of  one 
story  are  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  feet  high — that 
is,  from  the  sidewalk  to  the  eaves  of  the  tile 
roof,  which  slopes  toward  the  street  and  pro- 
jects out  over  the  cera  or  brick  pavement. 
The  sidewalk  is  rarely  wide  enough  for  two  to 
walk  abreast.  The  house  is  built  of  adobe, 
which  means  blocks  of  earth  mixed  with  tough 
grass  and  dried  in  the  sun.  The  blocks  are 
generally  two  feet  long  by  one  wide  by  six 
inches  thick.  The  outside  is  finished  off 
smooth,  and  whitewashed  or  painted.  Inside, 
the  walls  are  plastered  and  papered  hand- 
somely. The  windows  rarely  have  glass.  The 


CITY   OF   THE   SILVEE  HILLS.  35 

shutters  open  inward,  and  are  tremendous 
affairs  with  huge  bolts.  Outside  all  the  win- 
dows are  strong  iron  bars.  The  width  of  the 
house-walls  make  the  windows  the  nicest  little 
alcoves  to  sit  in.  As  to  furniture,  carpets  are 
not  much  used.  There  is  a  great  deal  of 
Canton  and  straw  matting,  and  rugs  are  liked. 
The  native  petates,  or  mats  woven  of  straw  and 
brightly  colored,  are  pretty  and  inexpensive. 
The  bent-wood  chairs  and  sofas  are  imported 
in  great  quantities  from  Europe.  Pianos  are 
numerous — strangely  enough,  when  you  know 
how  they  are  brought  up  from  the  coast.  And 
Tegucigalpa  has  many  fine  musicians.  There 
is  one  young  pianist,  Mr.  Meany,  whose  play- 
ing would  attract  attention  in  New  York  or 
London.  Candles  are  mostly  used  for  lights, 
but  there  are  also  handsome  lamps.  Kerosene 
is  rather  costly.  The  rooms  are  large  and  airy. 
There  is  an  interior  porch  on  all  four  sides  of 
the  patio.  Doors  from  all  the  rooms  open  into 
this  porch.  There  are  some  ugly,  uncared-for 
patios,  and  some  that  are  very  beautiful  with 
flowers  and  fruit  trees. 

Besides  the  cathedral,  in  Tegucigalpa  there 
are  four  or  five  churches.  There  is  a  hospital, 
and  early  in  January,  1889,  President  Bogran 


M  i  in    1:1  iTi;ur  OK  IIOMHKAS. 

himself   laid    the   corner-stone   of    tho   new 

orphans'    home.      There   is  ;i    -ood    lihrary    in 
eonneetiou    with   the   university,    and  there  are 

several  newspapers.    L«   *\<n'i,m  and   L<t  ///•- 

\\Y{\  llir  prinri|):il  niirs.     Tim  llumluntx 

)  the  first  English  i>:i|M»ri»verissu<Ml  in 

<  Vntml  AIIICI  i<-;i,  is  full  of  v:ilu:ihlr  inl'oniKil  ion 
for 


IV. 

SUNSHINE  AND  RTOKM 

I  found  it  :i  little  (lilliculi  ;il  lirst  to  undor- 
slund  ihr  seasons.  Arriving  in  a  nionlli  that 
in  thr  North  inrans  inidsnniincr,  1  was  told 
that  it  was  now  the  invierno,  or  winter,  and 
that,  the  verano,  or  summer,  he^imiim--  in 
Novemher  and  lasting  until  May,  would  he 
much  pleasanler.  I  felt  as  if  the  people  who 
told  me  this  mi^ht  he  makin<;  a  mistake. 
Kaney  August,  he  in;;- a  winter  mont  h  !  Travel 
IIILC,  I  learned,  would  he  had  for  the  next,  three 
months.  The  roads  were  muddy  in  some 

es,  mud  a  hove  the  horses' knees.     I  mean, 


sn  INSII  i  N  i<;   A  IN  i>  ;;  i  OI;M.  :v.) 

lie..  Tliis  is  perhaps  true.  Yet  people  who 
live  at  Truxillo  do  not  think  the  climale  bad 
at  all.  At  Puerto  Cortex  the  sea-breeze  is  con- 

Htantand  refivshiiitf.  I  did  not  Feel  unconiFort 
able  either  there  or  at  San  Pedro  Sula,  Unity 
miles  inland.  Tin'  only  lime  I  rea-lly  suJl'ered 
From  he:ii,  in  I londnras— the  only  truly  mem- 
ora  1)1(3  time— was  down  by  the  River  Ulua,  at 
midday,  witting  undor  a  huge  lemon  tree. 

Jus!,  ;il,  that  spot,  by  the  house  oF  I  -he  I'erry- 
niJMl,  to  whom  \\eslmll  eonie  in  ,-in  ;i .ITer  eh;ip 
ter,  I  he  ro;id  e.iirves  so  th;il  I  here  is  no  |);iss:i.^e. 
of  air.  Theiv  was  not  a.  hreaih  aslir  Ihat  <la.y; 
I  he  sun  was  hot,  sulFoeal  im.;ly  hot.  I  sal  motion- 
less, with  perspiration  oo/in^  From  every  pore; 
and  the,  hoi,  hni;e  lemons  Fell  around  me,  as  iF 
themselves  overcome. 

A  rain  storm  never  is  a  <;Teai  boiv  in  ||<>n 
dnras.  IF  you  :in?  out  Fora,  ride,  \ou  earry  a. 
rubber  cloak  one  Iliat.  does  not  ^ape  in 
Front  is  best.  IF  it  rain  very  hard,  lake  refuse. 
under  some  friendly  thatched  rooF.  In  lown,  iF 
it  rain,  you  need  not  ^o  out  until  it  slops. 
The  only  provoking  shower  I  can  call  to  mind 
during  all  the  months  I  spent  in  Honduras, 
was  one  which  l>e";in  promptly  at  haJF-past 
seven  (/clock  of  the  evening,  on  the  i:>th 


40  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

of  September.  It  was  the  night  of  Independ- 
ence Day,  and  there  was  a  grand  ball  at 
the  President's  palace.  I  was  one  of  a  party 
who  were  to  attend.  At  eight  o'clock  the  rain 
was  still  pouring  in  torrents.  Now,  the  annoy- 
ing part  was  that  one  of  the  ladies  of  our  party 
was  to  open  the  ball  with  the  President !  We 
could  not,  therefore,  go  late.  Imagine  six  or 
eight  ladies  and  gentlemen  in  full  dress  parad- 
ing through  the  street  in  a  drenching  storm! 
No  carriages;  not  even  an  ox-cart !  There  was 
no  other  way  than  for  the  ladies  to  be  carried  in 
chairs.  Three  were  procured — chairs  I  mean 
—and  six  stout  mozos  were  quickly  engaged. 
Each  lady  was  carefully  seated;  her  satin  and 
tulle  train,  her  fan,  gloves,  and  flowers  carefully 
placed  in  her  lap,  and  a  rubber  cloak  thrown 
over  her.  She  was  given  an  umbrella  to  hold. 
Presently  the  procession  started.  Two  of  the 
ladies,  including  the  one  who  was  to  'dance 
with  the  President,  were  light-weights;  the 
third  was  rather  solid.  The  mozos  who  carried 
this  lady  groaned  and  slipped  on  the  wet  stones, 
and  groaned  again  and  slipped  again,  and 
finally  down  with  a  crash  came  lady,  mozos, 
and  all,  in  the  middle  of  the  street.  No  one  was 
hurt,  fortunately,  and  none  of  us  laughed  more 


SUNSHINE   AND    STORM.  41 

at  the  recollection,  for  days  afterward,  than  the 
lady  herself. 

A  great  many  people  have  a  terrible  dread 
of  Honduras  as  an  unhealthf  ul  place.  For  the 
most  part,  such  a  feeling  is  unwarranted.  It  is 
certainly  a  wise  plan  to  go  at  once  to  the  inte- 
rior on  first  arriving  in  the  country.  But  the 
coast  lands  are  by  no  means  such  deadly 
regions,  providing  one  exercise  proper  care  as 
to  living.  Wait  until  you  have  been  two  or 
three  weeks  in  the  tropics  before  you  eat 
fruits  to  which  you  are  unaccustomed.  Be 
careful  not  to  drink  impure  water  without  first 
boiling  it.  There  is  no  danger  in  the  water  of 
the  crystal  clear  mountain  streams.  Avoid 
getting  wet  and  chilled.  If  you  get  caught  in 
the  rain,  take  immediately  a  little  brandy.  Do 
not  eat  too  much  animal  food;  if  you  do,  you 
are  apt  to  become  bilious.  Be  temperate  in 
the  matter  of  liquors.  The  aguardiente  of  Hon- 
duras is  very  powerful,  and  should  be  taken 
sparingly.  The  guaro  is  better  in  the  bottle 
than  down  the  throat. 

No  one  who  has  been  in  Honduras  can  be 
unaware  of  the  perfection  of  the  climate  of  the 
interior  in  restoring  health  to  those  suffering 
from  diseases  of  the  respiratory  organs.  The 


42  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

pure  and  gentle  atmosphere  of  these  high  alti- 
tudes is  the  best  possible  cure  for  consump- 
tive tendencies.  Persons,  indeed,  whose  lungs 
are  already  seriously  affected,  may  hope  for 
complete  recovery  here  among  these  upland 
forests  of  pine  and  oak.  For  such,  an  altitude 
of  three  to  four  thousand  feet  is  the  best 
region.  In  this  cool  and  even  temperature  they 
should  wear  light  flannel  underclothing  and 
sleep  with  sufficient  coverings  during  the  really 
cold  nights.  Daily  bathing  in  the  mountain 
streams,  and  not  too  much  riding,  will  give  them 
unheard-of  appetites  and  make  new  creatures 
of  them  in  a  short  time. 

October  is  perhaps  the  prettiest  month  in 
Honduras.  After  the  long  months  of  the  rainy 
season,  the  look  of  the  world  is  enchanting. 
The  air  is  clearest  then,  for  the  rains  have 
washed  out  all  the  dust.  Miles  and  miles 
across  splendid  emerald  valleys  are  distant 
mountains  veiled  in  sapphire  and  azure.  Some- 
times, beyond  low  floating  snowy  clouds,  rise 
dark-green  peaks  like  islands  in  an  aerial  sea. 
The  flowers  are  all  at  their  best. 

The  road- sides  in  places  are  ablaze  with  yel- 
low and  scarlet.  In  other,  shadier  spots  there 
are  ferns  and  orchids.  On  a  mountain-side 


SUNSHINE   AND   STORM.  43 

where  a  thousand  tiny  streams  trickle  con- 
stantly down  across  your  narrow  path,  there  is 
maiden-hair,  delicate  and  beautiful  beyond 
description  —  inexhaustible  quantities.  And 
mingled  with  it  are  begonias  that  you  instantly 
crave  to  transport  to  the  North.  Further  on 
are  giant  ferns,  amazing  trees  that  make  you 
stare.  In  another  place  you  will  find  black- 
berries growing  wild — bushes  and  bushes,  limit- 
less and  unheeded.  But  it  is  the  very  same 
old  blackberry — -red  when  it  is  green — that 
you  have  eaten  all  the  summers  of  your  life 
since  you  were  old  enough,  in  the  North. 
The  natives  call  it  the  mora.  And  everywhere 
you  will  see  the  mimosa,  the  sensitive  plant, 
which  in  the  tropics  becomes  quickly  a  tree, 
and  does  not  quiver  and  recoil  so  easily  at  rude 
contact.  There  are  two  species — one  with  little 
pink  fuzzy  balls,  and  one  whose  fuzzy  balls  are 
yellow. 

O,   how  truly  beautiful  is  the    spring-like 
October  of  the  Honduras  uplands  ! 


44  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

V. 


HOW  TO   BE  COMFORTABLE. 


A  great  many  foreigners  go  to  Honduras 
leaving  their  families  behind  in  the  United 
States.  A  few  take  their  wives  and  children 
along  with  them.  There  is  no  good  reason  why 
they  should  not.  With  a  little  forethought, 
life  may  be  as  agreeable  for  a-  woman  as  for  a 
man.  But,  to  be  sure,  there  are  women  who 
are  not  easily  contented.  If  you  go  to  Hon- 
duras ready  to  groan  and  grumble  at  every 
trifle,  prepared  to  believe  the  inhabitants  a 
set  of  savages,  and  firmly  convinced  that  the 
climate  is  deadly,  and,  in  short,  everything 
"horrid,"  you  are  not  apt  to  be  comfortable 
yourself  or  to  render  anyone  else  so.  Go 
there  cheerfully,  prepared  to  do  without  gas- 
light and  street-cars,  also  matinees  (except 
in  Tegucigalpa),  fresh  oysters  (except  in 
Amapala),  art  exhibitions,  green  apples,  and 
American  butter  (except  in  cans  from  the 
United  States),  and  you  may  be  serene,  if  not 
absolutely  happy. 

If  you  are  going  to  stay  any  length  of  time 
in  any  one  place,  you  must  find  a  house.  Rents 
vary.  In  El  Valle  de  los  Angeles  you  can 


HOW   TO   BE   COMFORTABLE.  45 

secure  a  habitation  at  from  five  to  thirty  dollars 
per  month.  In  Tegucigalpa  houses  rent  for  from 
ten  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  Supposing 
you  take  a  place  that  is  rather  roughly  finished 
inside  —  indeed,  outside  of  Tegucigalpa  or 
Comayagua,  the  houses  are  not,  as  a  rule,  very 
artistic.  In  such  case  you  will  want  to  have  a 
deal  of  cretonne  for  curtains  and  portieres  and 
mantles.  You  will  want  plenty  of  muslin  or 
lace  window-curtains.  Rugs  will  make  your 
bare  floors  comfortable.  The  ladies'  and  chil- 
dren' s  dresses  should  be  all  of  summer  materials. 
Don't  let  anyone  delude  you  into  taking  spring 
costumes.  You  want  June  and  July  attire. 
Sun  and  shade  hats  you  will  need;  parasols 
and  umbrellas  in  plenty;  shoes  and  boots 
enough  to  last  a  good  while;  rubber  cloaks  of 
the  best  possible  quality — cheap  ones  will  not 
stand  the  climate.  Sheets  and  pillow-cases, 
blankets  and  bed-spreads  you  must  take  also. 
Hammocks  and  steamer-chairs  are  the  nicest 
things  in  the  world  for  a  house  in  Honduras. 
Some  little  knick-knacks  and  pictures  will 
make  bare  walls  more  home-like.  If  I  were  a 
lady  going  to  Honduras  with  my  husband,  I 
should  also  take  two  or  three  pretty  evening 
dresses  with  me,  because  people  who  are  agree- 


46  THE   REPUBLIC    OF   HONDURAS. 

able  and  come  well  introduced  are  treated 
very  amiably  in  a  social  way,  and  there  is  not 
always  time  to  get  a  dress  made  for  a  party; 
besides,  how  much  nicer  to  have  the  latest 
New  York  cut !  And  I  would  take  ever  so 
many  pairs  of  kid  gloves — undressed  kid, 
which  do  not  spot  like  dressed  kid,  in  the 
tropical  rainy  season. 

But  about  comfortable  living:  The  house 
fixed,  you  must  have  a  servant  or  two.  They 
work  for  low  wages,  but  you  must  not  be 
splenetic  at  the  bare  shoulders  and  bare  feet  of 
your  kitchen  maid.  See  that  she  is  clean  from 
head  to  foot;  that  is  all.  Her  camisa  should  be 
spotless,  and  her  calico  skirt  should  not  drag 
behind  and  wipe  up  the  dust.  Trust  to  her  to 
cook  the  frijoles  and  tortillas.  Instruct  her  on 
other  points  kindly  and  repeatedly,  and  do  not 
lose  patience.  Go  about  the  kitchen  (I  am 
speaking  now  for  the  benefit  of  the  foreigner's 
wife)  with  your  Spanish  book  in  your  hand,  giv- 
ing orders  as  grammatically  as  possible;  and  all 
of  a  sudden  you  will  be  surprised  to  find  how 
well  you  speak  and  understand  the  language. 
Be  as  kind  as  you  can  to  your  native  servants. 
The  Hondureiios,  even  of  the  lower  classes,  are 
as  proud  as  Lucifer  is  said  to  be.  You  can 


HOW   TO   BE  COMFORTABLE.  47 

never  force  them  to  do  anything.  On  the  other 
hand,  they  will  show  the  greatest  devotion  to 
an  employer  for  w^hom  they  have  affection. 

In  order  to  be  comfortable,  one  must  duly 
respect  the  inner  man.  What  is  one  to  eat  in 
Honduras  ?  There  is  good  beef  to  be  had,  and 
occasionally  veal.  There  is  no  mutton  yet; 
there  are  few  sheep  in  the  country.  Pork  is 
rather  high.  Very  good  sausage  is  manufact- 
ured by  the  natives.  Brains  and  sweetbreads 
nicely  cooked  are  tasty  dishes.  Iguana,  the 
meat  of  which  is  white  and  delicate,  is  not  at 
all  bad,  and  there  is  a  certain  kind  of  monkey 
that  need  not  be  despised.  Mr.  E.  W.  Perry 
says  that  "  boiled  monkey,  tender  and  fat  from 
much  feasting  on  zapotes  and  other  sweet  and 
wholesome  fruits,  is  delicious  food.  There  is 
another  excellent  reason  why  people  who 
might  turn  with  aversion  from  a  diet  of  even 
so  remote  an  ancestor  should  eat  the  fat, 
white-bellied  mono.  His  oil  is  a  superior 
remedy  for  catarrh  and  kindred  ailments,  and 
excels  cod-liver  oil  in  curing  consumption." 

The  same  gentleman  speaks  favorably  of  the 
armadillo,  baked  in  its  many-banded,  scaly 
armor.  The  wild  turkey  is  very  good,  and  the 
tepescuintle  is  tasty.  In  regard  to  vegetables, 


48  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

a  good  plan  is  to  have  your  own  kitchen  gar- 
den, raising  your  own  tomatoes,  string-beans, 
radishes,  lettuce,  parsley,  onions,  beets,  cab- 
bages, cucumbers,  squashes,  and  so  forth.  All 
these  things  grow  as  by  magic.  You  have  but 
to  water  them  and  watch  that  the  ants  do  not 
get  at  them.  If  you  waken  one  morning  and 
find  a  thousand  of  these  busy  little  insects 
streaming  into  your  garden-patch  and  walking 
off  with  your  precious  green  stuff,  do  not  faint 
or  shriek.  Go  quietly  and  find  a  mozo.  Offer 
him  two  or  three  dollars  to  discover  and  remove 
the  ants'  nest.  He  will  do  so  effectually,  and 
then  you  may  pay  him.  With  a  little  trouble 
you  may  have  thus  all  the  fresh  vegetables  you 
wish,  the  year  round.  Flour  is  expensive. 
You  will  do  well  to  buy  your  bread.  They 
have  a  secret  for  making  it,  with  white  of  eggs, 
I  fancy.  Speaking  of  eggs,  keep  your  own 
hens  if  possible,  and  raise  chickens  for  your 
table.  Rice  is  plentiful  and  cheap.  Fried 
bananas  and  plantains  are  dishes  that  you  will 
very  soon  grow  fond  of.  Ripe  mangoes  stewed 
are  harmless,  and  green  mango  pie  is  worth  tast- 
ing. Figs  are  delicious  stewed.  Pineapples, 
anonas,  zapotes,  aguacates,  jocotes,  oranges,  and 
lemons  are  abundant  in  the  market-places,  and 


HOW   TO   BE   COMFORTABLE.  49 

cost  little.  Among  familiar  fruits  to  the  stranger 
are  the  duraznos  (peaches),  which  are  plucked 
green  and  hard,  and  must  always  be  stewed.  I 
do  not  know  why  the  natives  do  not  let  them 
ripen.  There  are  quinces,  too,  but  these  cost 
more.  The  blackberry  grows  wild  at  four 
thousand  feet  altitude.  Little  girls  gather 
them  and  bring  them  to  your  door  to  sell. 
For  a  real  (twelve  and  a  half  cents)  you  can 
buy  a  heaping  measure.  Water-melons,  in 
their  season,  can  be  had  for  twenty  or  twenty- 
five  cents  apiece.  They  are  small,  but  of  good 
flavor. 

Now  for  some  purely  native  dishes — the  tor- 
tilla, the  tamale,  the  frijoles,  and  the  Spanish 
"  boiled  dinner."  Maize  is  certainly  the  staple 
breadstuff  of  the  country.  A  requisite  for 
your  kitchen  is  the  metate,  or  piedra  de  moler. 
This  is  a  stone  about  two  by  two  feet  in  dimen- 
sions and  slightly  concave  in  the  center.  Ac- 
companying it  is  a  stone  rolling-pin.  Fpon 
this  stone  the  tortillas  are  prepared,  and  should 
you  lack  a  coffee-mill,  your  coffee  may  thus  be 
ground.  The  first  thing  in  tortilla-making  is 
to  cook  the  corn  on  the  cob  in  lime-water,  or 
water  with  a  little  ashes  in  it.  The  kernels 
come  off  easily  then  in  the  shape  of  what  we 

4 


50  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

call  hulled  corn.  This  is  placed  on  the  stone 
and  ground  to  a  paste-like  mass  with  the  stone 
roller.  When  there  are  no  kernels  left,  the 
roller  is  laid  aside.  The  wet  meal  is  taken  np 
in  small  masses  and  patted  between  the  hands 
into  thin,  round  cakes  from  four  to  eight  inches 
in  diameter.  These  are  baked  quickly  on  a 
stone  or  a  thin  pan  over  a  hot  fire;  and  behold, 
the  tortilla !  The  tamale  is  different.  It  con- 
sists of  the  wet  meal  made  into  rolls,  placed  in 
large,  thick  leaves,  or  else  in  tough  corn-husks, 
and  boiled  for  a  good  while.  But,  as  a  rule, 
some  fine  chopped  meat  or  raisins  are  added 
before  the  boiling.  The  raisin  tamales  are  little 
else  than  boiled  Indian  puddings.  A  pleasant 
native  drink  is  made  by  stirring  pinole  into 
a  glass  of  water  and  sweetening  it.  The  pinole 
is  parched  grains  of  maize  ground  to  a  fine 
powder.  Pinole  also  makes  good  hasty  pud- 
ding, they  say. 

Uabul  is  the  name  of  a  Mosquito  coast  drink. 
It  is  made  from  the  butuco,  a  thick,  stumpy 
plantain  with  an  acid  flavor.  This  butuco  may 
be  eaten  either  stewed  or  fried,  in  which  case  it 
tastes  like  stewed  peaches  or  like  fried  apples. 
The  drink  from  it  is  made  by  boiling  the  fruit 
soft  and  making  a  mush  of  it,  then  stirring 


HOW   TO   BE   COMFORTABLE.  51 

in  cold  water,  adding  a  little  lime-juice  and 
sweetening  to  your  taste.  The  frijoles,  or  black 
beans,  are  always  eaten  for  breakfast.  They 
are  boiled  first  with  a  small  piece  of  pork. 
Next,  they  should  be  mashed  with  a  wooden 
masher.  After  this,  place  them  in  a  deep 
earthen  dish  if  possible,  add  sufficient  lard, 
some  slices  of  onion,  and  bake  awhile.  The 
boiled  dinner  of  tropical  lands  is  as  detestable 
as  the  boiled  dinner  of  New  England.  It  con- 
sists of  a  piece  of  meat  with  some  bone  and  fat, 
some  plantains,  some  yams,  some  yuca,  some 
ayotes  and  chayotes,  native  squashes,  and  any- 
thing else  that  the  cook  may  fancy. 

During  many  months  of  the  year  honey  is 
brought  to  your  door  in  bottles.  It  is  wild 
honey  and  of  excellent  flavor.  Good  coffee 
and  chocolate  are  easily  obtainable.  Fine 
sugar  is  rather  high.  The  native  dulce  is 
usable.  If  you  want  good  tea,  you  must  take 
it  with  you;  they  do  not  know  tea  very  well 
in  Honduras.  The  native  cheese  and  mante- 
quilla  are  good.  Milk  you  must  buy  early  in 
the  morning.  The  cows  are  milked  but  once  a 
day.  In  a  few  localities  it  is  almost  impos- 
sible to  obtain  it,  but  as  a  rule  you  can  have  it 
brought  to  you  at  from  ten  to  fifteen  cents  per 


52  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

bottle.  Everything  in  the  fluid  line  is  brought 
in  bottles,  you  will  find — wine,  whisky,  and 
beer  bottles,  whose  original  contents  were  long 
since  absorbed,  and  whose  astonishing  num- 
bers suggest  all  sorts  of  thoughts  about  a 
remarkable  thirst  in  the  land. 


PART  II. 

ROCK   AND   RIVER. 


I. 

THE   OLDEST   MINES. 

The  great  attraction  of  Honduras  for  stran- 
gers and  foreign  capital  lias  thus  far  been  the 
precious  metals  locked  in  the  bosoms  of  the 
mighty  Cordilleras  or  hidden  in  the  sands  at 
the  bottom  of  the  rivers  flowing  northward. 
Until  quite  recently,  little  attention  has  been 
paid  to  the  subject  of  colonization  for  agricult- 
ural purposes,  although  the  lowlands  afford 
magnificent  advantages  for  these.  The  mines 
have  been  the  vast  and  absorbing  question, 
back  as  far  as  the  beginning  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  when  Columbus  appeared  with  his 
adventurous  followers  to  discover  and  conquer 
another  world. 

The  first  fifty  years  of  Spanish  industry 
were  doubtless  devoted  to  placer-mining  in 
the  rivers  not  far  from  the  north  coast.  Silver 
was  then  discovered,  but  no  movement  was 
made  to  mine  it  out  until  the  beginning  of 
the  seventeenth  century.  The  first  steps 
toward  this  were  taken  amid  the  mountains 

(53) 


54  THE   REPUBLIC.  OF   HONDURAS. 

to  the  east  of  what  is  now  the  capital,  and  in 
the  districts  or  minerales  to-day  known  as 
those  of  Santa  Lucia,  San  Juan  de  Cantarra- 
nos,  and  San  Juancito.  The  last-named  place  is 
now  the  site  of  the  Rosario  works,  probably 
thus  far  the  best  developed  and  most  success- 
ful in  all  Honduras.  Formerly  one  had,  on 
leaving  the  capital,  to  pass  through  Santa 
Lucia  and  either  Cantarranos  or  El  Valle  de 
los  Angeles  to  reach  San  Juancito;  but  during 
the  past  three  or  four  years  a  new  cart-road 
has  been  completed,  leading  thither  direct 
from  Tegucigalpa.  This  road  leads  up  the 
4 '  Leona ' '  side,  curving  now  this  way  and  now 
that  along  her  white  limestone  walls  for  some 
miles,  then  dips  in,to  a  pleasant  woods;  on 
through  the  woods,  and  out  again  into  pleas- 
ant pastures  a-nd  fields  of  waving  corn;  up  and 
down  into  wilder  and  grander  woodland  spaces; 
high  for  a  last  climb,  and  then  you  come  all  at 
once  upon  the  Rosario  Mine  itself,  from  which 
on  to  San  Juancito  the  road  is  but  a  descent  of 
one  thousand  feet  in  the  course  of  three  miles. 
For  eight  or  nine  years  the  Rosario  Company 
had  little  to  show  for  hard  work  and  constant 
expenditure  for  labor  and  improvements.  To- 
day the  bullion  output  is  over  one  hundred 


THE   OLDEST   MINES.  59 

out  a  sweet  and  smiling  prospect — green  fields, 
with  little  rivers  sparkling  through,  and  splen- 
did trees  casting  their  shade  along  the  level 
wagon-roads.  On  every  side,  but  far  enough 
away,  a  guard  of  hills,  all  beautiful  with  ame- 
thyst and  pale-green  lights.  Flowers  every- 
where, and  comfortable-looking  houses  and 
well-paved  streets. 

Here  are  the  mines  of  Las  Animas.  Thirty- 
ton  furnaces  are  used  by  the  Los  Angeles  Min- 
ing and  Smelting  Company,  and  both  steam 
and  water  power  employed.  Mr.  N.  A.  Foss 
is  the  superintendent.  The  company's  build- 
ings are  commodious,  and  the  management  is 
prudent. 

Proceeding  on  from  the  beautiful  valley,  you 
come  next  to  Santa  Lucia,  a  picturesque  little 
town  of  white  adobe,  nestling  amid  the  green 
of  coffee  and  banana  fields.  Its  site  is  upon 
one  of  the  foot-hills  of  the  Cantarranos  Mount- 
ains, and  its  altitude  about  four  thousand  five 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  one  of  the 
very  oldest  mining  camps  of  the  country. 
There  are  a  number  of  old  openings  abandoned 
by  the  Spaniards  seen  all  over  the  tract,  some 
of  them  caved  in,  others  just  as  they  were  left. 
The  present  principal  working  was  begun  by 


60  TIII;  REPUBLIC  OF  HONDURAS. 

the  driving  of  a  tunnel  of  over  seven  hundred 
feet  into  the  mountain.  This  tunnel  passes 
through  strata  containing  large  deposits  of 
high-grade  silver  ore.  True  fissure  veins  are 
seen  on  the  surface,  not  differing  from  the 
deposits.  Ruby  silver  and  sulphurets  are 
found  in  the  ore,  the  gangue  of  which  is  chiefly 
marl,  calcite,  and  quartz.  The  Santa  Lucia 
Mining  and  Milling  Company  was  originally 
organized  in  New  York,  but  is  now  controlled 
by  Pennsylvania  capitalists. 

In  the  Santa  Lucia  district  is  also  La  Plomosa, 
a  property  owned  principally  by  Mr.  Frederick 
E.  Adie,  of  London,  and  Doctor  Fritzgartner,  of 
Honduras.  Some  specimens  lately  taken  from 
this  have  assayed  one  and  three-tenths  ounces 
of  gold  to  thirty  ounces  of  silver.  The  vein 
(ten  feet  in  width)  averages  forty  dollars  in 
silver,  with  a  considerable  amount  in  gold.  A 
company  is  being  organized  in  London  to  work 
the  concession.  In  the  same  jurisdiction  is 
the  Santa  Elena  Mine,  worked  by  the  Victoria 
Mining  and  Milling  Company,  of  which  Mr. 
Thomas  D.  Wayne,  of  Chicago,  is  president. 

Another  old  mine  is  the  Guasucaran.  This 
is  situated  on  Guasucaran  Mountain,  twenty- 
seven  miles  south  from  Tegucigalpa  and  fifty- 


THE  OLDEST  MINES.  61 

seven  miles  inland  from  Port  La  Brea,  on  the 
Gulf  of  Fonseca.  The  altitude  is  about  five 
thousand  feet  above  sea-level,  and  the  old  mine 
has  a  curious  history.  It  is  related  that  early 
in  the  sixteenth  century  a  party  of  Spaniards 
were  going  down  from  the  interior  to  the  coast, 
and  lost  their  way  on  the  mountain-side.  They 
camped  there  as  night  came  on.  Next  morning 
they  built  a  fire  to  cook  something  for  break- 
fast, and  afterwards  they  discovered  in  the 
ashes  of  their  fire  some  small  silver  slugs. 
They  examined  the  rock,  and  found  it  coated 
with  small  drops  of  silver.  They  said  nothing, 
but  some  of  their  number  returned  to  Spain 
and  obtained  a  patent  to  work  the  mine,  and 
to  introduce  a  large  number  of  slaves  for  the 
labor. 

In  1821,  when  independence  was  declared, 
the  owner  was  a  Senor  Rosa.  This  gentleman 
fled  from  the  country,  and  the  mine  was  left  in 
the  hands  of  natives,  who  worked  it  leisurely 
in  the  most  primitive  way.  From  1850  to  1860 
it  was  worked  by  Captain  Moore,  an  English- 
man, who  had  bought  it  for  sixty  thousand 
dollars.  In  1860,  -Mr.  John  Connor  came  out 
from  London  and  joined  Captain  Moore,  who 
died  in  1865,  and  left  all  his  Honduras  property 


62  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

to  Mr.  Connor.  This  latter  gentleman  has 
worked  it  ever  since  in  the  primitive,  native 
fashion,  with  an  arrastra,  a  wooden  live-stamp 
mill,  and  barrels  for  amalgamation.  The  pres- 
ent development  of  the  mine  consists  of  fifty- 
odd  drifts  arid  cross-cuts,  from  two  hundred 
to  six  hundred  feet  in  length,  with  thirty  head- 
ings, all  in  ore,  from  which  one  hundred  tons 
can  be  mined  daily  for  an  indefinite  period. 
The  " pockets"  assay  four  hundred  to  five 
hundred  dollars  per  ton,  and  the  ore  averages 
forty  dollars.  A  company  has  been  formed 
recently,  known  as  the  Gruasucaran- California 
Mining  and  Milling  Company.  Mr.  John  Con- 
nor, Jr.,  is  superintendent.  A  ten-stamp  mill 
is  being  built,  with  boiler,  saw-mill,  and  lixiv- 
iation  plant.  The  new  company  has  secured 
a  concession  of  adjoining  land  in  the  depart- 
ment of  Tegucigalpa  and  jurisdiction  of  Ojo- 
jona. 

II. 

MINES  OF   IMPORTANCE. 

Yuscaran,  perhaps,  is  the  place  we  should 
visit  next.  Yuscaran  is  the  principal  town  of 
the  department  of  Paraiso.  It  is  east  and  a 
little  south  from  Tegucigalpa,  at  a  distance  of 


MIJSTES   OF   IMPORTANCE.  63 

about  forty  miles.  Its  altitude  is  about  the 
same  as  that  of  the  capital,  and  the  climate  is 
therefore  good.  The  town  is  so  hidden  by 
mountains  that  as  you  approach  you  have  no 
idea  of  its  proximity  until  all  at  once  the 
sight  bursts  upon  you.  During  the  past  six  or 
seven  years  Yuscaran  has  become  something  of 
a  business  centre,  owing  to  activity  in  mining 
matters.  "  The  market-place,"  says  Mr.  Lom- 
bard, in  an  interesting  article,  "  aifords  a  prod- 
uce exchange  for  the  entire  department  of 
Paraiso;  all  the  towns  from  the  great  Indian 
settlement  of  Texiquot  to  Danli,  the  centre  of 
the  coffee  district,  sending  every  week  their 
several  products  thither.  On  the  broad  plains 
round  about  this  important  town,  not  only  the 
finest  coffee  in  all  Central  America  is  cultivated, 
but  also  a  superior  quality  of  sugar-cane,  in 
such  quantities  that  the  aguardiente,  or  native 
rum,  distilled  therefrom  is  sufficient  to  supply 
the  demand  of  the  entire  department  of  Paraiso, 
and  that  of  the  department  of  Tegucigalpa  as 
well." 

It  seems  that  the  mines  of  Yuscaran  were 
discovered  in  the  eighteenth  century,  by  one 
Juan  Calvo.  He  was  riding  over  a  pass  in  the 
Plata  Mountains,  and  his  mule  stumbled  and 


64  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

fell.  Calvo  slipped  off  unhurt;  the  mule 
rolled  on  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  incline. 
Calvo  clambered  down  to  recover  the  animal, 
and  noticed  a  bit  of  dislodged  rock  glistening 
in  the  sun.  He  picked  it  up  and  found  it  to  be 
silver  ore.  He  went  away  quietly  enough  with 
his  mule.  Some  days  later  he  returned  with  a 
few  rude  tools  and  began  work  on  the  vein  that 
he  had  discovered.  In  a  few  weeks  he  was 
known  to  possess  large  sums  of  money, 
which  he  spent  rather  prodigally.  His  actions 
excited  suspicions.  His  acquaintances  began 
to  watch  him  closely,  and  thus  his  secret  was 
discovered.  As  he  had  not  taken  any  meas- 
ures to  obtain  a  patent,  others  gathered  from 
all  sides  and  began  to  work  the  mine,  which 
was  called  from  that  time  Los  Quemazones. 
Other  veins  were  discovered,  the  most  im- 
portant being  the  Guayabillas,  Monserrat, 
Iguanas,  Sacramento,  Santa  Elena,  Jesus,  Tor- 
nagas,  San  Miguel,  California,  Suyate,  Capiro, 
Platero,  and  Veta  Grande.  Yuscaran  came 
into  existence  as  a  town;  houses  were  built  and 
streets  paved;  a  cathedral  was  not  forgotten. 
The  natural  surroundings  were  and  are  excel- 
lently adapted  for  a  mining  town.  There  are 
three  rivers — the  Rio  Grande,  the  Rio  Aurora, 


MINES   OF   IMPORTANCE.  65 

and  the  Rio  de  los  Ingenios — close  by.  There 
are  forests  of  pine  on  the  mountains  and  forests 
of  hard-wood  in  the  valleys. 

To-day  the  principal  mining  companies  at 
work  at  this  spot  are  the  Zurcher  &  Streber 
Mining  and  Milling  Company,  the  Monserrat 
Mining  Company,  and  the  Guayabillas  Mining 
Company.  There  is  also,  I  think,  the  Paraiso 
Reduction  Company,  which  has  a  twenty-stamp 
mill  near  Yuscaran.  The  Zurcher  &  Streber 
Company  are  working  the  Iguanas  and  the 
Mercedes  tunnel,  with  rich  results.  The  Mon- 
serrat, at  latest  reports,  had  developed  a 
bonanza  at  one  thousand  feet  under  the  mount- 
ain, where  two  converging  four-feet  veins  meet 
and  continue  on  as  one.  The  ore  shows  ruby 
silver,  and  assays  from  two  hundred  dollars 
upward.  The  company  runs  twenty  stamps 
night  and  day. 

The  Guayabillas  is  worked  with  Cornish 
pumps.  This  is  the  famous  old  mine  from 
which,  in  the  years  1813-17,  the  output  was 
over  two  million  dollars. 

South  from  Yuscaran  some  sixty  miles  are 
the  mines  of  the  Potosi  district,  a  tract  con- 
taining nine  square  miles,  and  comprising  the 
following  mines :  El  Tajo,  El  Socorro,  Los 

5 


66  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

Corales,  La  Loma,  La  Mina  Grande,  Guada- 
lupe,  San  Benito,  Santa  Rosa,  Los  Melones, 
El  Chaparro,  Jiganta,  San  Rafael,  El  Carmin. 
They  have  all  been  worked  to  depths  of  from 
fifty  to  two  hundred  feet.  The  San  Benito  and 
the  Jiganta  were  abandoned  because  the  ore 
was  too  hard  to  work  by  native  methods.  El 
Socorro  is  full  of  water.  The  Guadalupe  Min- 
ing Company,  Limited,  of  Potosi,  an  English 
company,  has  a  fifteen-stamp  mill  and  an  air 
plant,  and  is  working  the  Guadalupe  mine. 
The  Potosi  Mining  and  Reduction  Company 
is  working  the  San  Benito,  with  bullion  out- 
put of  thirty  bars  per  month. 

About  five  leagues  distant  from  this  tract, 
and  on  the  same  mountain  range,  at  Corpus, 
are  the  famous  old  mines,  Clavo  Rico  and  El 
Corpus.  The  Clavo  Rico  has  lately  been  re- 
opened, the  old  tunnel  cleared  and  re-timbered. 
Mr.  J.  B.  Daniel  is  superintending  the  work. 
Besides  the  tunnel,  he  has  started  shafts  on  El 
Pulpito  and  El  Altar  veins,  just  back  of  the 
Corpus  church,  which  was  built  over  the  very 
richest  part,  in  consequence  of  some  supersti- 
tion about  a  golden  dragon  in  the  mine  that 
had  to  be  suppressed. 

Thirty-six  miles  from   Choluteca,   and  over 


MINES   OF   IMPORTANCE.  67 

the  Nicaragua  frontier,  is  the  mine  belonging 
to  the  Segovia  Mining  Company,  El  Golfo. 
The  company  was  organized  in  New  York,  with 
a  capital  of  $300,000.  The  directors  are  Mr. 
H.  M.  Braem,  Mr.  C.  Littlefield,  and  Mr.  H.  A. 
Spears,  of  New  York,  and  Hon.  Abelardo  Zel- 
aya,  of  Honduras.  The  property  consists  of 
quartz  fissures  richly  impregnated  with  gold. 
A  twenty-stamp  mill  is  in  operation. 

The  Dos  Hermanos  Mining  and  Milling  Com- 
pany has  a  valuable  property  in  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  El  Corpus,  department  of  Choluteca. 

The  Cortland  Honduras  Association  and  the 
San  Rafael  Mining  and  Milling  Company  have 
a  concession,  embracing  three  gold  and  silver 
mines,  near  Nacaome,  on  the  Pacific  coast.  A 
stamp-mill  is  being  built. 

The  San  Marcos  Company  has  a  ten-stamp 
mill  at  Sabana  Grande,  and  makes  regular  bull- 
ion shipments  to  New  York.  The  San  Marcos 
mine,  despite  interruptions  and  lack  of  proper 
machinery,  produced  in  the  fifteen  months  end- 
ing with  September,  1889,  over  $100,000. 

The  New  Orleans  and  Curaren  has,  at  Cur- 
aren,  a  mill  with  two  batteries  of  five  stamps 
each,  four  pans  and  two  settlers,  and  other 
equipments. 


68  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

The  Aramecina  United  Gold  and  Silver  Min- 
ing Company,  Limited,  was  lately  organized  in 
London,  with  $1,000,000  capital.  The  directors 
are :  Mr.  Henry  Wethered,  of  London,  presi- 
dent ;  Mr.  Oliver  Wethered,  of  London ;  Mr. 
William  Morgans,  of  London ;  Mr.  F.  B. 
Beach,  of  New  York ;  Mr.  A.  E.  Morgans,  of 
London,  managing  director. 

The  company  owns  a  group  of  mines  at  Ara- 
mecina, the  Santa  Lucia  lode  being  the  most 
important.  The  mill  plant  is  one  suitable  to 
treat  three  hundred  tons  of  ore  per  day.  A 
rock-drilling  plant  of  engine,  boilers,  and  air- 
compressor  to  work  eight  drills,  is  in  position. 
Thirty  more  drills  will  be  added  before  long. 
The  mining  camp  of  Aramecina  is  thirty  miles 
from  Port  Aceituno,  on  the  Gulf  of  Fonseca, 
and  about  three  miles  east  of  the  village  of  Ara- 
mecina. The  altitude  is  about  one  thousand 
two  hundred  feet,  the  climate  fine,  and  there  is 
good  supply  of  wood  and  water. 

The  Opoteca  Mines,  at  Opoteca,  department 
of  Comayagua,  and  about  thirty  miles  north- 
west of  the  old  capital,  now  belong  to  an  Eng- 
lish syndicate,  to  which  they  were  sold,  during 
the  past  year,  by  their  owner,  Capt.  Frank  M. 
Imboden,  for  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 


MINES   OF   IMPORTANCE.  69 

dollars,  cash.  The  company  is  preparing  to 
expend  a  million  dollars  in  equipping  the  new 
plant. 

The  San  Bartolo  Mine,  department  of  Copan, 
belongs  to  Captain  Payne,  of  New  Orleans. 
The  ore  is  a  pure  chloride  of  silver,  and  assays 
about  ninety  ounces. 

The  Santa  Cruz  Gold  Mining  and  Milling 
Company  (an  English  syndicate)  is  building  a 
new  one-hundred-stamp  mill  on  the  banks  of 
the  Chamelecon  River,  in  the  department  of 
Santa  Barbara. 

The  Monte  del  Cielo  Mining  and  Milling 
Company,  of  the  Minas  de  Oro  district,  has  a 
five-stamp  mill  and  three  Huntington  mills  for 
gold  plate  amalgamation. 

The  Esperanza  Mine,  of  the  same  district,  is 
owned  by  Mr.  Smart. 

The  Eureka  Mine  is  owned  by  Mr.  Wer- 
muth,  who  works  it  with  an  arrastra,  pulveriz- 
ing sixteen  tons  of  soft  ore  in  twenty-four 
hours. 

The  Tempano  Mine  has  a  gold  plant. 

The  Clarita  Mine,  owned  and  worked  by 
Americans,  has  a  five-stamp  mill. 

The  ore  of  the  Minas  de  Oro  is  mostly  a  free 
milling  gold  ore,  with  gangue  of  decomposed 


?0  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

quartz  and  ferruginous  clay.  The  veins  are 
from  eight  to  twenty  feet  in  width. 

The  New  York  and  Camalote  Mining  Com- 
pany has  a  water-power  stamp-mill  at  Cama- 
lote. 

The  Hector  Mining  and  Milling  Company, 
which  was  organized  in  Fargo,  North  Dakota, 
by  the  Messrs.  Miller,  Sweaton,  Wickersham, 
Milickan,  and  Bell,  has  its  works  at  Quebrada 
Grande,  Olancho.  There  are  some  six  hundred 
feet  of  flume  sluicing,  with  good  reservoirs. 
The  bed-rock  of  the  stream  is  rich  in  coarse 
gold;  it  is  covered  with  two  to  three  feet  of 
gold  gravel. 

The  Poso  Grande  is  a  mining  company  lately 
organized  in  Kansas  City,  which  has  located 
some  gold  placer  claims  at  Macueliso,  below 
the  mines  Los  Tarros  and  El  Oro,  belonging  to 
General  Kraft. 

The  Honduras  Gold  Placer  Mining  Company 
was  organized  in  London  in  October,  1889,  by 
Major  E.  A.  Burke,  of  New  Orleans.  This 
company  is  to  work  the  concessions  obtained 
by  Major  Burke  in  Olancho.  The  working 
capital  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dol- 
lars. An  important  undertaking  of  the  com- 
pany is  the  turning  of  the  River  Jalan,  at 


LIFE  IN   A   MINING   CAMP.  71 

Retiro,  south  of  Juticalpa,  in  order  to  work  its 
bed.  Other  companies  organized  by  Major 
Burke  are  the  Guayape  and  Jalan. 


III. 

LIFE  IN  A  MINING  CAMP. 

To  live  in  Tegucigalpa,  or  Comayagua,  or 
Yuscaran,  or  Santa  Cruz  de  Yojoa,  or  San 
Pedro  Sula,  or  even  the  Valley  of  the  Angels, 
is  different  from  living  in  that  which  is  purely 
a  mining  camp,  and  where  there  is  absolutely 
no  pleasant  native  society.  In  such  a  camp, 
for  instance,  as  that  of  San  Juancito,  there  is 
no  social  life  outside  of  the  little  colony  of 
foreigners.  And  wherever  there  is  no  social 
life,  wherever  there  is  nothing  but  toil  from 
morning  till  night,  without  relaxation,  without 
break,  without  change  of  any  sort,  life  becomes 
at  times  a  most  awful  monotony;  it  comes  to 
resemble  most  painfully  the  grind  of  the  stamp- 
mill,  that  never  ceases  day  or  night.  Despite 
the  magnificent  blue  of  the  sky,  the  splendor 
of  the  tropical  sunshine,  the  brilliance  of  the 
myriad  stars,  the  pine-fragrant  breeze  rushing 
through  the  mountain  passes,  one  loses  heart, 


72  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

or,  rather,  feels  his  heart  growing  hard  and 
dull,  if  he  is  shut  away  from  humanity.  He 
forgets  many  of  the  nice  little  customs  of 
polite  society;  he  grows  awkward  and  diffi- 
dent, if  not  uncouth.  It  is  therefore  vastly  to 
the  credit  of  many  of  the  American  mining 
companies  that  they  endeavor  as  far  as  possible 
to  provide  frequent  harmless  recreations  for 
their  employes.  The  superintendents  often 
arrange  entertainments  at  their  own  houses; 
music,  dancing,  occasionally  some  little  dra- 
matic representation,  followed  by  refreshments, 
are  the  order  of  the  evening.  To  the  wives  of 
one  or  two  of  these  gentlemen— charming 
ladies,  who  seem  ever  desirous  of  brightening 
the  prosaic  life  of  the  company's  toilers — is 
due  much  kindly  feeling  from  all  who  have 
spent  any  length  of  time  in  the  camps. 

There  are  some  companies,  however,  whose 
employes  are  worked  too  hard,  I  think.  Not 
that  the  superintendents  are  not  humane  men, 
or  men  with  a  proper  sense  of  justice;  but  the 
truth  is— and  particularly  if  they  own  stock 
themselves — they  are  so  interested  in  making 
the  mine  a  grand  success  that  they  forget,  at 
times,  to  have  any  mercy  on  flesh  or  blood- 
even  their  own.  One  gentleman  in  particular 


LIFE  IN  A   MINING    CAMP.  73 

I  remember  to  have  told  that  he  not  only  over- 
worked his  employes,  but  also  himself.  Their 
hours  were  from  six  in  the  morning  until  ten 
and  eleven  at  night,  with  but  half  an  hour  for 
meals.  They  were  supposed  to  work  nearly 
the  same  time  on  Sundays!  I  prophesied  to 
this  man  that  bad  would  come  of  such  a  strain. 
He  laughed  at  me.  "  You  will  pay  for  it,  and 
dearly,"  I  warned  him.  And  he  did;  for  he 
died  very  suddenly,  a  few  months  later,  from 
what  was  supposed  to  be  apoplexy.  The 
" seventh  day"  rest  is  just  as  important  in 
Honduras  as  anywhere  else.  If  the  stamp- 
mills  must  keep  on  running,  as  is  not  unreason- 
able, let  the  Sunday  force  be  men  who  rest  on 
Saturday.  If  men  must  be  worked  from  six  in 
the  morning — and  must  rise  at  five  in  order  to 
dress  and  get  their  coffee — do  not  keep  them 
up  until  midnight,  I  should  say,  unless  you  per- 
mit them  an  hour  or  two  for  a  midday  siesta. 
Some  attention  should  be  paid  to  the  fact  that 
the  climate  is  not  that  of  the  temperate  zone. 
Superintendents  from  Dakota  should  not  com- 
pel their  employes — many  of  them  natives, 
totally  unused  to  such  meal-hours — to  eat  a 
hearty  breakfast  at  half -past  five  A.  M.,  a  heavy 
dinner  at  twelve  noon,  and  an  unsubstantial 


74  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

sort  of  supper  at  five  or  six  P.  M.,  in  true 
Dakota  fashion.  Such  a  course  means  large 
mortality  among  the  employes — a  mortality 
that  nine  out  of  ten  will  not  hesitate  to  blame 
upon  the  deadly  climate  of  Honduras  !  Far 
better,  far  truer  economy  to  avoid  such  radical 
changes.  Let  the  men  have  their  coffee  on 
rising,  their  breakfast  at  ten,  their  dinner  at 
four  or  five.  Do  not  work  them  too  hard  dur- 
ing the  hot  part  of  the  day,  when  everyone 
feels  drowsy  and  more  like  taking  a  nap  than 
wielding  a  tool.  The  superintendents  ought;  to 
insist  on  their  employes  obeying  hygienic 
laws,  instead  of  forcing  them  to  violate  them. 
The  men  should  be  given  proper  time  for  their 
meals,  and  also  for  daily  bathing.  The  com- 
panies would,  I  believe,  find  it  a  cheaper  course, 
in  the  long  run,  than  that  of  employing  a  doc- 
tor, importing  a  vast  stock  of  drugs  to  be  dealt 
out  gratis,  and  every  few  weeks  ordering  the 
carpenter  to  knock  together  some  rough  boards 
in  the  shape  of  a  coffin  for  an  unfortunate, 
whose  shanty  will  be  vacant  on  the  morrow, 
and  whose  name  marked  forever  off  the  pay- 
list! 

Reflections  of  this  kind  should  not  be  deemed 
irrelevant,  since  the  various  boards  of  directors 


LIFE   IN   A   MINING    CAMP.  75 

in  the  United  States  and  England  make  it  a 
point  to  consider  economy  in  working  their 
properties. 

On  the  other  hand,  one  can  always  find  a 
great  many  bright  spots  to  remember  in  a 
period  of  several  months  spent  in  a  mining 
camp  in  Honduras.  A  little  colony  of  forty  to 
sixty  humans,  isolated,  as  it  were,  in  a  strange 
land,  thousands  of  miles  away  from  home  and 
friends,  is  like  a  family.  The  members  of  it 
become  attached  one  to  another,  and  regard 
one  another  as  brothers.  If  one  is  ill  or  in- 
jured, the  others  watch  with  and  nurse  him.  If 
one  dies,  the  others  follow  his  coffin,  borne  on 
men's  shoulders,  in  silence  and  sadness  to  its 
last  resting-place.  Some  one  of  them  reads  the 
burial  service;  others  in  turn  throw  a  shovelful 
of  earth  gently  upon  the  coffin.  The  grave  is 
filled,  and  they  turn  away  to  leave  him  there. 
On  the  Day  of  the  Dead,  the  decoration  day  of 
all  Spanish-American  countries,  liis  grave  is 
not  forgotten;  there  are  flowers  laid  upon  it. 
If  one  takes  a  wife,  the  others  rejoice  with  him. 
Sometimes  a  courageous  sweetheart  comes  out 
to  Honduras  to  be  married  to  a  fiance  too  busy 
to  go  to  New  York  and  fetch  her.  In  such  cases 
the  lady  is  most  courteously  received  by  the 


76  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

entire  camp  and  every  attention  paid  her.  Two 
or  three  mount  their  mules  and  start  down  to 
the  coast — a  trifling  distance  of  a  hundred  or 
a  hundred  and  fifty  miles — to  meet  and  escort 
her  up  to  the  interior.  She  is  the  guest  of  the 
superintendent's  family,  perhaps,  until  mar- 
ried. If  she  be  a  Protestant,  the  ceremony 
must  of  course  be  the  civil  marriage,  performed 
by  the  Governor  of  the  department,  unless  her 
fiance  chance  to  be  a  Catholic. 

Beyond  parlor  entertainments,  there  is  little 
amusement  for  the  colony.  Horseback  riding 
loses  its  novelty  when  it  comes  to  be  the  only 
means  of  traveling.  Once  in  awhile  there  is  a 
game  of  ball.  Tennis  has  never  taken  ahold; 
I  know  not  why.  The  mountain  streams  are 
too  narrow  and  rocky  for  swimming.  At  rare 
intervals  there  comes  the  maromero.  This  is 
the  Spanish- American  acrobat.  All  of  a  sud- 
den, one  day  early  in  the  verano,  or  dry 
season,  you  notice  an  unusual  brightness  of 
countenance  of  the  small,  barefooted  native 
urchin  who  has  come  to  sell  you  a  bottle  of 
milk  (for  twenty-five  cents,  if  you  are  in  an  in- 
accessible camp).  The  youngster  presently  ex- 
plains  his  or  her  cheerfulness  by  telling  you  that 
"To-night,  is  the  maroma.  They  are  putting 


LIFE  IN   A   MINING   CAMP.  77 

up  the  poles  down  in  the  open  space  below 
the  bridge  and  in  front  of  the  bodega." 
Later  on,  you  see  for  yourself  the  prep- 
arations. There  are  two  or  three  hori- 
zontal bars — one  very  high,  the  others  smaller 
—with  their  uprights,  and  there  are  ropes  dan- 
gling limply,  as  if  someone  were  going  to  be 
hanged.  The  performance  takes  place  from 
seven  o'clock  until  nine  or  ten.  It  is  public. 
The  lights— small  regard  is  paid  to  the  moon- 
consist  of  fires  kindled  in  four  places  around 
the  imaginary  ring.  The  maromero  has  ob- 
tained sawdust  sufficient  to  make  the  ground 
soft  for  his  tumbling.  The  wood  for  the  fires 
is  a  kind  of  pine.  It  blazes  beautifully,  and 
the  smoke  is  not  offensive.  Long  before  the 
fires  are  kindled  the  people  begin  to  congregate, 
coining  from  a  considerable  distance,  some  of 
them.  If  the  night  be  dark,  each  one  carries  a 
torch  of  his  own,  of  the  same  resinous  pine,  to 
light  him  up  and  down  the  steep  hill-sides;  or 
perhaps  he  has  placed  a  bit  of  lighted  candle 
downward  in  a  bottle  neck  and  carries  the  bot- 
tle wrong  side  up,  as  a  lantern;  for  bottles  are 
versatile  objects  in  Honduras,  as  I  have  re- 
marked before.  As  they  arrive,  the  good  folks 
form  a  dense  ring  around,  seating  themselves 


78  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

on  the  ground  or  on  any  lumber  or  pieces  of 
machinery  that  may  happen  to  lie  near.  The 
women  wrap  themselves  comfortably  in  their 
panolones  and  light  their  cigarettes.  The  men 
smoke  too.  It  should  be  understood  that  I  am 
describing  the  humbler  and  poorer  country 
people,  not  the  higher  class  Hondureiios.  At 
length  the  pine  piles  are  kindled.  They  blaze 
up  royally,  and  the  ruddy  light  illumines  the 
radiant,  expectant  faces  of  hundreds.  The  ma- 
romero  soon  makes  his  appearance — from  the 
bodega,  perhaps,  where  the  mining  company 
folks  have  granted  him  the  privilege  of  placing 
his  paraphernalia  and  swinging  his  hammock 
for  the  night.  If  he  does  not  appear  promptly, 
the  crowd  begin  to  whistle  and  call  for  him, 
much  like  the  gallery  of  a  theatre  in  any 
Northern  city  under  similar  circumstances. 
They  also  call  for  "  La  Musica ! "  I  should  not 
omit  to  state  that  the  maromero  has  obtained 
the  services  of  the  pueblo's  best  musicians — a 
violinist,  a  flutist,  and  a  man  with  a  guitar,  usu- 
ally. This  clever  little  orchestra  arrives  and 
seats  itself  on  boxes  provided  for  the  purpose.  It 
tunes  up,  and  is  ready  for  work.  The  maro- 
mero finally  comes  running  lightly  through  a 
space  kept  open  for  him  by  a  soldier  or  two  be- 


LIFE   IN   A   MINING   CAMP.  79 

longing  to  the  pueblo,  and  makes  his  bow  to 
the  audience  in  his  best  manner,  and  very  much 
a  la  ballet-girl.  He  is  dressed  in  white  tights, 
dark -green  velvet  trunks,  and  a  little  jacket  of 
velvet  with  gold  lace  trimming,  which  he  may 
remove,  if  lie  choose,  and  display  a  white  jersey. 
He  begins  with  a  topical  song,  and  a  dance  on 
the  soft  sawdust  between  the  verses.  His 
songs  are  humorous,  for  the  most  part,  but 
never  coarse.  The  crowd  enjoy  them,  and  ap- 
plaud enthusiastically.  After  the  song  he  gives 
some  exhibitions  on  the  horizontal  bars,  which 
are  really  very  good;  then  songs  again.  Then 
he  retreats  to  the  bodega  and  rests  a  little, 
while  the  music  plays.  After  this  he  comes 
out  again  and  continues  his  performance.  Just 
before  the  last  number  on  the  imaginary  pro- 
gramme he  goes  around  with  his  hat  and  takes 
the  voluntary  contributions — his  sole  compen- 
sation. From  five  cents  to  a  dollar  a  head  are 
contributed  with  the  greatest  willingness.  And 
he  may  collect  from  twenty-five  to  fifty  or  sev- 
enty-five dollars,  depending  on  the  size  of  his 
crowd,  who  disperse  in  the  pleasantest  humor 
after  hearing  his  ' '  Buenas  noches ' '  and  seeing 
him  retreat  from  the  ring  for  the  last  time. 


80  THE  REPUBLIC  OF  IIOKDUKAS. 

IV. 

SOME  SUGGESTIONS. 

There  are  people  who  should  never  go  to 
Honduras.  These  are  persons  lacking  in  stead- 
fastness of  purpose;  irresolute,  easily  discour- 
aged folks.  They  are  the  class  that  soon 
become  disgusted  with  the  life,  and  set  up  a 
tremendous  wail  to  return  to  civilization,  as 
they  call  it.  They  are  people  who  have  not  the 
slightest  idea  of  adapting  themselves  to  cir- 
cumstances and  getting  at  the  best  side  of  life. 
They  are  utterly  incapable  of  learning  Spanish, 
for  one  thing;  they  have  no  desire  to  learn  it, 
indeed.  They  depend  on  others  to  interpret 
for  them,  and  when  there  is  no  one  at  hand  to 
do  their  talking  for  them,  they  are  miserably 
helpless.  Such  are  some  of  the  employes  of 
the  mining  companies.  They  spend  a  year  or 
two  in  the  country,  grubbing  along  at  their 
work,  and  grumbling  at  the  cruelty  of  Fate  in 
bringing  them  to  such  a  spot.  They  draw 
their  salaries  with  a  vindictive  air,  as  if  their 
only  remaining  satisfaction  was  in  knowing 
that  the  company  had  to  count  out  so  many 
silver  dollars  every  first  of  the  month  on  their 
account.  These  people  finally  return  to  the 
United  States,  no  wiser,  no  better  off— save  for 


SOME   StTGGESTIOKS.  81 

their  paltry  earnings — for  their  experience  in 
the  tropics,  than  so  many  horses  or  oxen  would 
be.  And  these  are  the  people,  I  believe,  who 
make  the  ridiculous  and  depreciating  reports 
of  Honduras  that  we  sometimes  read  in  the 
newspapers.  They  do  not  scruple  to  assert 
that  the  country  is  inhabited  by  half-nude 
savages;  that  life  is  unsafe,  and  that  outra- 
geous liberties  are  taken  with  the  property  of 
foreigners.  These  are  the  people  who  would 
have  you  believe  that  your  letters  are  opened 
in  the  post-offices,  and  that  espionage  of  the 
most  annoying  sort  exists.  No  stories  of 
the  sort  should  be  credited.  The  post-off] ce 
authorities  are  too  busy  to  meddle  with  any- 
one's  correspondence.  They  would  consider  it 
a  great  bore  to  devote  unusual  attention  to  any 
letter  or  package — unless  there  were  reasons  to 
apprehend  smuggled  goods  or  the  violation  of 
the  postal  laws. 

Patience  and  perseverance  are  requisites  to 
success  in  mining  matters.  Anyone  who 
starts  for  Honduras  with  the  idea  that  he  is 
going  to  step  at  once  into  the  possession  of  a 
mountain  of  gold  is  doomed  to  disappoint- 
ment. He  must  take  time  and  go  slow.  He 
must  learn  the  language;  that  is  absolutely 

6 


82  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

necessary — at  least,  sufficiently  to  read  and 
converse  on  ordinary  subjects.  He  must  adapt 
himself  to  the  ways  of  the  country  and  the 
people.  He  should  know  something  of  its 
topography  and  its  early  history,  which  may 
be  easily  gotten  at  in  Wells'  Honduras  and  in 
Squier's  and  H.  H.  Bancroft's  works.  Then 
he  should  visit  the  principal  mining  camps,  and 
learn  how  they  have  arrived  at  their  present 
respective  conditions.  He  will  soon  have  dis- 
covered that  the  mining  industry  is  no  child's 
play,  but  a  hard  reality.  A  good  property 
will  avail  him  little  unless  properly  worked. 
Only  high-grade  ores,  assaying  at  least  sixty 
dollars,  pay  when  worked  in  the  primitive 
native  methods;  that  is  an  established  fact. 
To  equip  a  mine  with  the  plant  required  for  its 
successful  working,  means  a  large  outlay.  This 
is  why  companies  must  be  formed,  and  why 
the  natives  themselves  do  not  work  their  prop- 
erty on  a  large  scale.  The  concessions  granted 
by  the  Government  to  foreigners  are  remark- 
ably liberal.  No  one  can  say  that  President 
Bogran  has  not  shown  a  most  progressive  and 
truly  American  spirit  in  his  encouragement 
and  approbation  of  foreign  enterprise,  particu- 
larly in  regard  to  the  mining  industry. 


SOME'  SUGGESTIONS.  83 

The  Government  Mining  Bureau  is  an  excel- 
lent institution.  At  the  head  of  this  is  the  In- 
spector-General of  Mines,  Doctor  Pritzgartner. 
At  this  office  may  be  seen  some  valuable  and 
interesting  specimens  from  all  parts  of  the 
republic.  Here  are  nuggets  from  all  the  prin- 
cipal gold  and  silver  mines.  Here,  too,  are 
samples  of  coal-slate  from  Choluteca,  with 
strong  odor  of  petroleum,  and  from  the  north 
coast  as  well.  A  fortune  awaits  the  man  who 
discovers  the  coal-seams  which  are  thought  to 
exist.  Samples  may  be  seen,  at  this  bureau,  of 
fine  gypsum  discovered  in  the  red  marl  forma- 
tion very  near  to  Tegucigalpa.  The  occurrence 
of  this  gypsum  would  point  to  the  presence  of 
rock-salt.  A  good  cement  may  be  made  by 
adding  small  quantities  of  gypsum  to  the 
trachytic  tufa  found  throughout  Honduras. 
Calcined  gypsum,  or  plaster  of  Paris,  is  im- 
ported and  sold  in  the  drug-stores  at  a  high 
price.  It  is  apt  to  be  spoiled  by  the  moisture 
of  the  rainy  season. 

A  vast  amount  of  machinery  and  mining 
implements  is  admitted  to  the  country  duty 
free,  with  a  view  to  encouraging  foreign  enter- 
prise. 

The  Honduras  Progress  during  the  years 


84  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

1888-89  printed  the  mining  laws,  with  all  their 
latest  amendments,  in  English.  These,  for  a 
person  who  does  not  read  Spanish  easily,  are 
of  the  greatest  assistance  and  convenience;  the 
numbers  of  the  paper  containing  them  should 
be  obtained  from  the  office.  They  are  very 
clear  and  concise,  as,  for  example,  the  follow- 
ing, from— 

TITLE  IX. 
A  MINER'S  RIGHTS  UPON  HIS  CLAIM,  AND  INTERSECTION  OF 

MINES. 

ARTICLE  100.  The  miner  is  the  exclusive  owner  within 
the  limits  of  his  claim,  and  in  all  its  depth,  not  only  of  the 
registered  vein  or  deposit,  but  also  of  all  the  other  veins,  cross- 
veins,  and  mineral  substances  which  exist  or  may  be  found 
in  it. 

ARTICLE  101.  But  he  is  forbidden  to  follow  or  work  them 
into  someone's  else  claim. 

ARTICLE  102.  Every  trespass  subjects  him  to  restitution  of 
the  amount  taken  out,  according  to  the  valuation  of  experts, 
without  prejudice  of  an  action  for  theft,  should  bad  faith  be 
proven  against  him. 

ARTICLE  103.  Fraud  will  be  presumed  when  the  trespass 
exceeds  twenty-five  yards. 

Something  about  the  comparatively  new 
stamp-mill  process  may  not  be  out  of  place 
before  closing  this  chapter.  This  is  a  device 
arranged  generally  in  what  are  called  bat- 
teries, each  one  comprising  live  stamps.  At 
the  Rosario  works  there  are  seven  bat- 
teries, making  thirty-five  stamps.  Each  stamp 
may1  weigh  seven  or  eight  hundred  pounds. 


SOME  SUGGESTIONS.  .          85 

The  battery  is  set  in  a  mortar  or  cast-iron  box, 
with  iron  blocks  called  dies  at  the  bottom,  on 
which  the  stamps  are  to  fall.  The  ore  passes 
through  a  crushing  machine,  and  then  is  fed 
into  the  mortars  to  be  crushed  under  the 
stamps.  Water  also  enters  with  the  ore,  and 
the  finely  crushed  mixture  passes  out  through 
sheet-iron  perforated  screens  of  the  mortar. 
The  stamps  drop  a  distance  of  eight  or  ten 
inches,  making  from  fifty  to  ninety  strokes  per 
minute.  The  stamps  are  about  ten  feet  in 
length,  and  consist  of  four  parts,  called  stem, 
collar,  stamp-head,  and  shoe.  The  collar  is  on 
the  upper  part,  and  projects  three  or  four 
inches.  The  cam  of  the  driving-shaft  catches 
under  this,  and  lifts  and  turns  the  stamp.  The 
stamp-head  is  a  cylinder  of  tough  cast-iron, 
and  on  its  bottom  there  is  a  steel  shoe  which 
can  be  removed  when  worn  out,  and  replaced. 
A  thirty -five-stamp  mill  can  reduce  from  sev- 
enty to  ninety  tons  of  ore  in  twenty-four  hours. 
By  the  old  arrastra  method  this  would  require 
weeks.  The  crushed  ore  is  treated  in  various 
ways  for  the  extraction  of  the  gold.  Some- 
times experiments  are  necessary,  at  no  little 
expense,  before  the  best  method  is  hit  upon, 
particularly  in  the  case  of  refractory  ores. 


86  THE  REPUBLIC  OF  HONDURAS. 

V. 

THE  OPALS  OF  HONDURAS. 

You  will  not  have  been  long  in  the  country 
when  one  morning  you  will  receive  a  visit  from 
a  couple  of  traveling  salesmen  from  Gracias. 
These  gentlemen  may  not  at  first  sight  im- 
press you  with  their  appearance.  They  will  be 
carelessly  dressed  in  jacket  and  trousers  of 
some  light  cotton  material,  a  pita  hat  the 
worse  for  wear,  or  a  nondescript  felt  article  of 
headgear,  possibly  a  handkerchief  around  the 
neck,  and  feet  without  shoes  or  stockings. 
They  will  wear  sandals  of  hide,  perhaps,  with 
strings  tied  around  the  ankle  and  between  the 
great  toe  and  its  neighbor.  They  will  have  come 
a  long  and  weary  distance,  and  if  it  be  break- 
fast-time, will  ask  you  to  accommodate  them 
with  something  to  eat,  for  which,  of  course, 
they  will  pay.  Then  they  will  produce  their 
wares,  the  poorest  and  lowest  priced  always  to 
begin  with.  As  a  rule,  they  carry  the  opals  in 
tiny  bottles— always  the  bottle  in  Honduras  !— 
filled  with  oil.  I  do  not  know  whether  the  oil 
spoils  the  stones,  or  whether  the  stones  are  of 
poor  quality  to  begin  with;  but  I  do  know  that 
opals  that  have  been  in  oil  are  not  worth  buy- 
ing; for  once  removed  from  the  bottles  they 


THE   OPALS   OF  HONDURAS.  87 

begin  to  crack.  Some  of  them  are  very  lovely 
bits  of  color.  But  if  you  are  wise  you  will 
decline  to  invest,  and  insist  on  being  shown 
some  better  ones.  After  considerable  argument 
and  protesting  on  both  sides,  the  Gracias  gen- 
tlemen will  contrive  to  fumble  in  their  pockets 
and  bring  forth  some  little  folded  papers  con- 
taining more  expensive  specimens.  Ah,  some 
of  these  are  gorgeous!  If  you  are  wily  you 
can  purchase  actual  beauties  for  a  dollar  or  two 
apiece.  The  little  cheap  ones  sell  from  dos 
reals  (twenty-five  cents)  to  a  dollar. 

I  have  seen  very  beautiful  opals  in  Hon- 
duras, but  never  any  that  struck  me  as  being 
as  durable  as  those  of  Mexico.  One  should 
make  it  a  point  to  visit  the  department  of  Gra- 
cias and  see  the  mines;  without  so  doing,  you 
can  gain  very  little  idea  of  them.  It  is  no  use 
to  ask  people  in  Tegucigalpa,  for  few  of  them 
—outside  of  the  government  geologist,  and  per- 
haps a  jeweler  or  two — can  give  you  any  infor- 
mation. They  will  tell  you  that  the  principal 
mines  are  near  the  town  of  Erandique,  and  are 
worked  by  Messrs.  Peacock  &  Burdet.  And 
you  will  need  a  map  to  show  you  that  Gracias 
is  west  a  good  distance  from  Tegucigalpa,  and 
that  it  is  a  long  ride  thither.  And  you  will  be 


88  THE    REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

hardly  any  wiser  than  you  were  before  leaving 
the  United  States,  on  this  point.  But  if  you 
can  speak  any  Spanish  at  all,  ask  the  opal 
venders  such  questions  as  come  into  your 
mind.  In  that  way  you  may  learn  a  good  deal. 
Just  how  much  one  should  be  swayed  by  the 
popular  superstition  concerning  these  beautiful 
stones,  I  would  not  attempt  to  say.  Speaking 
from  my  own  experience— twice  during  my  life 
have  I  possessed  opals,  the  iirst  time  Mexican, 
the  second  from  Honduras — they  have  been 
for  me  harbingers  of  the  most  cruel  and  un- 
foreseen events,  followed,  however,  by  un- 
dreamed-of and  more  than  compensating  good 
fortune.  They  fascinate  me,  and  yet  fill  me 
with  terror.  They  are  always  associated  in  my 
mind  with  tragedy.  I  never  see  an  opal  now 
without  recalling  George  Parsons  Lathrop's 
beautiful  poem,  "A  Casket  of  Opals."  One 
of  the  sets  of  verses  tells  of  two  dead  lovers 
meeting : 

"  He  asked,  '  Am  I  forgiven? ' 

'  And  dost  thou  forgive? '  she  said. 
Long  time  in  vain  for  peace  they'd  striven, 
And  now  their  hearts  were  dead." 

"On    the    Pacific  coast,"    says    Honduras 
Progress,   "large  veins  of  common  opals  are 


THE   OPALS   OF  HONDUKAS.  89 

found,  of  bluish  and  reddish  colors.  Blocks 
of  opals  weighing  from  one  hundred  to  three 
hundred  pounds  can  be  easily  extracted.  In 
future  years,  no  doubt,  this  class  of  mineral 
deposits  will  be  utilized  by  the  lapidaries  for 
articles  of  luxury,  as  well  as  for  the  decoration 
of  dwellings  and  railroad  cars,  in  a  similar 
manner  as  the  'Mexican  onyx,'  which  is  but 
a  calcite,  and  of  no  great  hardness." 


PART    III. 

IMMIGEATION    AND    AGKICULTUKE. 


I. 

SOME  PLANS  AND  ATTEMPTS  TO  COLONIZE. 

Two  great  necessities  of  Honduras — perhaps 
the  two  greatest — and  recognized  as  such  by 
President  Bogran  and  many  other  progressive 
Honduraneans,  are  those  of  immigration  and 
agricultural  development.  Agriculture,  as  we 
hear  repeated  over  and  over,  is  the  true  basis 
of  national  wealth,  and  bright  will  be  the  day 
for  Honduras  when  her  splendid  fields  are  cul- 
tivated even  to  a  quarter  of  the  full  extent  of 
their  resources. 

The  first  steps  of  actual  importance  toward 
colonization  and  agricultural  progress  have 
been  taken  lately  by  what  is  called  the  Ameri- 
can Honduras  Company.  The  president  of 
this  company  is  Mr.  E.  W.  Perry,  a  man  of 
foresight  and  pluck.  Mr.  Frank  M.  Imboden, 
the  former  owner  of  the  valuable  Opoteca 
mines,  is  the  vice-president.  The  company 
has  offices  in  the  principal  cities  of  the  United 
States,  as  well  as  in  Tegucigalpa,  in  Patuca,  in 

(91) 


92  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

Juticalpa,  and  Catacamas.  Its  object  is  the. 
colonization  of  the  vast  yet  little  known  east- 
ern region  of  the  republic,  which  is  called 
Mosquito.  Mr.  Perry's  work  is  genuine. 
What  he  says  and  writes  of  the  country 
—and  he  has  done  a  great  deal  in  this  direc- 
tion— may  be  credited,  every  word,  for  he  is 
speaking  from  actual  knowledge,  not  from 
hearsay.  He  has  personally  explored  Mos- 
quito, and  knows  the  land.  The  simple  fact 
that  such  a  man  is  the  president  of  the  com- 
pany, and  that  he  is  seconded  by  another  of 
such  experience  and  prudence  as  Mr.  Imboden, 
should  guarantee  success  in  all  that  may  be 
undertaken.  The  vast  tract  of  Mosquito  com- 
prises areas  of  land  heretofore  unsalable,  be- 
cause so  remote  and  unreachable.  According 
to  the  contract  of  Mr.  Perry  with  the  Govern- 
ment, this  land  is  purchased  by  the  American 
Honduras  Company,  the  payment  to  be  made 
in  extensive  public  works  which  will  prove  of 
inestimable  value  to  the  entire  eastern  half  of 
the  republic.  There  will  be  a  wagon-road  built 
over  three  hundred  miles  in  length,  leading 
from  the  capital  to  the  north  coast.  The  cost 
of  this  is  estimated  at  three  hundred  and 
twenty-three  thousand  three  hundred  and  fifty- 


ATTEMPTS  TO   COLONIZE.  93 

three  dollars.  There  is  a  canal  to  be  made 
between  the  Caratasca  Lagoon,  which  is  close 
to  the  Mosquito  coast  line,  and  the  Guayape, 
an  important  river.  This  canal  will  be  at  least 
twenty  miles  long  by  twelve  yards  wide,  and 
five  feet  deep.  The  cost  will  be  nearly  three 
hundred  thousand  dollars.  The  channel  be- 
tween Caratasca  and  the  sea  may  have  to  be 
deepened  at  a  cost  of  sixty-five  thousand  dol- 
lars. One  hundred  miles  of  telegraph  line 
must  be  strung,  and  other  improvements  made, 
to  permit  communication  between  this  region 
and  the  interior.  The  cost  will  be  at  least 
seven  hundred  thousand  dollars.  These  are 
the  works  with  which  the  company  pays  for  its 
Mosquito  lands.  That  it  is  in  earnest,  having 
already  begun  active  measures  toward  coloni- 
zation, is  very  gratifying.  A  steam  saw-mill 
has  been  brought  to  Patuca,  which  will  cut  ten 
thousand  feet  of  lumber  per  day,  and  houses 
are  being  built  at  that  place  and  at  Caratasca. 
There  is  a  steamer  to  carry  mail  and  freight — 
including  fruit — from  points  along  the  eastern 
coast  to  Trujillo  and  Puerto  Cortez,  there  to 
connect  with  the  steamers  for  the  United  States. 
Land  has  been  cleared  between  the  Caratasca 
Lagoon  and  the  sea,  and  planted  with  fruits — 


94  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

such  as  bananas,  cocoa-nuts,  and  pine-apples. 
Along  the  Patuca,  or  Guayape,  other  fruit 
plantations  have  been  begun.  The  natives  of 
the  region — chiefly  Sambos — have  been  stimu- 
lated to  improve  their  fruit  crops,  perceiving 
that  a  way  to  market  their  produce  will 
speedily  be  opened.  There  is  .a  good  mule  trail 
now  between  Dulce  N  ombre  and  the  Patuca  or 
Guayape  River.  This  will  probably  be  made 
into  a  wagon-road  later  on. 

The  company  has  begun  to  introduce  materi- 
als and  implements  for  building  houses  and 
making  furniture.  It  has  brought  wagons  and 
harnesses,  and  tools  for  constructing  roads.  It 
is  now  introducing  animals  of  the  finest  breeds 
into  the  region,  in  order  to  improve  the  native 
stock.  Among  these  are  a  number  of  Norman 
stallions. 

The  exploration  of  such  a  country  is  by  no 
means  a  trifling  task.  To  read  of  anyone 
having  done  so,  conveys  but  little  idea  of  the 
achievement.  No  one,  save  he  who  has  tried 
it  for  himself,  realizes  what  it  means  to  ride 
from  one  hundred  to  three  hundred  miles 
through  a  region  where  there  is  hardly  the 
shadow  of  a  mule  trail.  There  may  be  no 
wild  beasts,  it  is  true,  but  there  will  be  other 


ATTEMPTS  TO   COLONIZE.  95 

formidable  difficulties.  The  pioneers  who  have 
attempted  the  Mosquito  tract  are  certainly 
courageous  souls.  Some  of  their  experiences, 
jotted  down  at  the  time,  are  most  interesting. 
Mr.  W.  W.  Packer,  of  Sabanagrande,  was  one 
of  the  first  to  explore  for  a  direct  route  between 
Tegucigalpa  and  Patuca.  Some  extracts  from 
his  diary,  as  published  in  Honduras  Progress, 
seem  to  me  worth  preservation. 


II. 

MB.  PACKER'S  DIARY. 

January  17,  1889. 

Iii  the  Works,  near  Dulce  Nombre,  Honduras,  C.  A.,— 
away  up  in  Catacamas. 

Mr.  Hines  and  myself  are  halting  here  on  our  return  march 
from  Rio  Patuca,  while  a  courier,  one  of  our  Indians,  has  been 
sent  ahead  for  our  mules,  which  were  left  at  Dulce  Nombreon 
beginning  this  exciting  journey  by  foot  and  canoe. 

After  several  weeks  of  rough  life,  we  are  in  a  deserted  In- 
dian hut,  wishing  we  might  see  the  reflection  of  our  faces  in 
a  mirror,  cleaning  them  with  the  keen  edge  of  a  Swedish  razor. 

But  here  are  the  dates  and  events: 

SUNDAY,  December  23,  1888. 

Met  the  Governor,  who  advised  change  of  route,  saying  he 
once  sent  a  party  of  six  old  mountaineers  on  the  same  errand, 
and  that  they  lost  their  way  and  were  eleven  days  in  wander- 
ing out.  He  very  kindly  gave  us  all  means  at  his  disposal,  and 
wished  us  a  safe  journey.  We  were  much  pleased  by  his 


96  THE  REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

kindness;  but  oh!  the  vanity  of  earthly  things!  A  little  fly 
destroys  the  enjoyment  of  your  coffee;  a  flea  cools  the  ardor 
of  your  wooing  !  Our  worthless  mozo,  Silvestre,  has  deserted — 
but  we  have  engaged  another  just  as  bad. 

CHRISTMAS,  December  25,  1888. 

Rose  at  five  A.  M.,  not  with  the  lark,  but  with  the  humming- 
bird, and  while  we  cooked  our  breakfast  over  a  fire  of  cedar 
logs,  we  had  the  voices  of  bright-hued  songsters  overhead. 
A  scorpion,  also,  was  on  my  blanket,  but  I  have  forgiven  him. 
We  killed  three  chickens;  I  trust  they  Ijave  forgiven  us.  We 
took  a  drink  (from  the  river) — I  have  no  hopes  of  forgiveness 
after  doing  this  on  the  great  holiday — and  then  we  cantered 
away  for  Catacamas,  which  we  reached  at  three  p.  M.  The 
day  was  very  mild,  and  the  mules  were  not  very  wild,  or  they 
might  have  been  shocked  as  we  entered  the  town.  We  re- 
covered the  next  morning  by  a  shock,  when  it  was  announced 
that  our  mules — Jose"  and  Maria — were  missing,  and  would 
only  be  found  on  the  payment  of  dos  pesos  (two  dollars). 

December  30,  1888. 

We  have  now  been  at  Rio  Tinto  several  days,  and  though 
one  courier  after  another  has  arrived  from  our  region  of  pro- 
posed action,  and  reported  a  horrible  and  infernal  wilderness 
before  us,  we  will,  however,  try  the  ghosts  to  see  if  they  be 
flesh  or  spirit.  To-night,  sixteen  Indians  occupy  the  space  in 
front  of  the  casa,  lying  with  the  goats  and  calves  on  the  wet 
ground. 

December  31,  1888. 

Ant-eaters,  condors,  rubber  trees,  and  otiiei  novelties,  as 
we  drive  from  Rio  Tinto  to  Dulce  Nombre,  to  spend  New 
Year's  eve.  A  feast  is  in  progress,  and  not  only  the  native 
population  resort  thither,  but  the  Indians  come  to  drink  and 
pray.  In  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  country,  rolling  like  the 
grand  waves  of  the  sea,  we  ride  till  night  settles  down;  the 
rain  descends,  and  our  mules  pick  the  way  for  the  last  two 
leagues  in  the  inky  darkness  and  drenching  rain,  till  the 
flashing  of  pine  fires  shows  us  our  wished-for  resting-place 
— the  place  where  rampant  hostility  is  to  confront  us,  instead 
of  peaceful  rest.  In  one  of  these  mud  huts,  however,  we  find 


MR.  PACKER'S  DIARY.  97 

a  place  to  stop,  for  the  President  has  given  us  his  protection, 
and  it  is  powerful — a  command,  in  writing,  that  we  shall  be 
aided  by  all  alcaldes — and  the  power  of  the  law  is  acknowl- 
edged. Amid  the  imprecations  outside  and  the  curses  we  hear 
from  between  set  teeth,  we  go  to  sleep.  We  know  the  Indians 
only  dread  the  pick  and  shovel,  but  they  must  do  their  share 
of  the  hard  work  to-morrow. 

January  2,  1889. 

The  new  year  has  begun,  and  with  it  our  work.  As  every- 
one at  this  time  should  divest  himself  of  all  the  superfluities 
of  life,  so  we  have  divested  ourselves  of  all  the  superfluities  of 
weight  and  clothing  that  might  hinder  the  pilgrim's  progress. 
Oh,  mula  grande!  I  stroke  thy  large  dark  ears,  and  pat  thy 
handsome  neck,  while  I  say  good-bye!  Five  stalwart  Indians 
from  three  tribes  are  to  take  thy  place  and  bear  thy  burdens 
— for  often  shall  I  expect  one  of  them  to  carry  me,  and  then 
say:  Thy  pace,  oh  mula,  is  more  pleasing!  The  bundles  are 
strapped  on  the  Indians'  backs,  seventy-five  to  one  hundred 
pounds  on  each  swarthy  fellow.  A  guide,  a  cook,  and  so  our 
party  is  now  ten.  Away  we  go,  "over  fern  and  fen,"  till  the 
night;  then  camp,  drenched  with  rain  and  wading — and  sleep 
on  the  muddy  ground,  amid  the  sighing  and  weeping  forest 
trees. 

Now  let  a  day  pass,  but  not  as  we  passed  it,  unless,  may  be, 
you  behold  the  grandeur  of  the  scene  from  mountain-peak,  or 
look  upward  from  the  quebrada  in  the  beauteous  glen ;  but  go 
to  the  place,  thirty  miles  from  the  nearest  Indian  settlement, 
where,  as  all  true  travelers  must,  we  made  a  discovery.  An 
apple  falling  led  Newton  to  the  enunciation  of  a  great  and 
important  law.  A  monkey  dancing,  prancing,  amid  the  lofty 
trees  leads  us  to  a  "mine  of  antiquities."  A  shot,  a  rush,  of 
both  monkey  and  Indians — one  in  flight,  the  rest  in  pursuit; 
Mr.  Hines,  fleet-footed  as  a  mountaineer,  follows,  calls  me, 
and,  oh  heavens!  to  think  of  the  labor  a  thousand  years  agone! 
A  "barranca,"  a  mass  of  stone,  a  ruin,  tables  in  one  piece  of 
granite,  bowls  in  delicate  tracery  ornamented,  turtles,  innu- 
merable things  with  tiger  heads  and  tails,  and  adorned  by  the 
hand  of  art.  How  I  longed  for  a  swift  steamer  to  transport 
7 


98  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

these  thousands  of  articles,  wrought  by  hands  long  since 
turned  to  dust  and  scattered  by  the  wind,  to  my  own  city  ! 
but  the  errand  we  are  on  calls  us.  We  can  not  linger,  like 
district  messenger  boys,  to  play.  (We  will  work  the  claim  by 
and  by.) 

One  more  day's  journey,  and  the  strength  given  us  by  that 
'monkey  tneat  has  taken  us  to  the  bed  of  Rio  Lagarto;  and  after 
many  crossings  through  water,  cold,  yet  mercifully  clean,  we 
come  upon  a  band  of  Sumo  Indians. 

We  bargained  with  the  hunters  for  two  "  pitpans,"  which, 
a  few  hours  later,  we  found  on  the  banks  at  the  junction  of 
the  Guampu  and  Lagarto.  The  splendid  craft,  looking  so 
rakish  and  piratical,  was  made  from  a  mahogany  log — thirty- 
five  feet  in  length,  two  feet  six  inches  in  breadth,  hollowed 
by  fire.  On  Monday,  January  7th,  we  took  our  seals  in  one, 
to  try  the  beautiful  Guampu  and  the  country  along  its  banks; 
one-half  mile,  and  we  took  from  a  breakfast  of  iguana  a 
party  of  three  Sumos,  to  navigate  our  boats.  Our  party  thus 
augmented  numbered  thirteen — a  fatal  number,  say  the  super- 
stitious and  so  it  proved  to  one  who  dined  that  day  on  the 
bank  amid  the  roarings  of  a  cataract. 

Entering  the  rapids,  in  a  few  minutes  we  experienced  that 
charming  sensation  in  shooting  them,  which,  mixed  with  the 
unknown  element  of  danger,  gives  a  piquancy  that  is  the 
greatest  delight.  We  were  in  one  of  a  series  of  rapids  that 
extend  about  forty-five  miles,  and  among  them  we  may 
class  about  forty  as  perilous,  running  with  great  swiftness, 
often  very  tortuous,  some  with  very  narrow  courses,  full 
of  rocks  that  we  often  grazed;  some  so  shallow  that  we  had  to 
lighten  boats  and  wade,  and  in  one  place  unload  the  canoes 
and  haul  them  around.  I  waded  at  first  barefoot  in  the 
water,  but  was  very  glad,  on  regaining  the  boat,  to  put  on 
shoes,  with  a  linn  resolve  to  escape  that  torture  at  the  risk  of 
being  overturned  by  the  current;  so  we  went  all  day  in  the 
pouring  rain.  One  of  the  most  picturesque  objects  in  the 
midst  of  Nature's  grandeur  was,  I  am  proud  to  say,  myself — 
shoes,  but  no  socks,  trousers  rolled  high,  a  rubber  coat,  and  a 
white  helmet.  The  macaws  and  parrots  along  the  banks  must 


MR.  PACKER'S  DIARY.  99 

have  envied  my  dress  (or  my  lack  of  it).  At  six  p.  M.,  we  were 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Pan,  at  an  Indian  "pueblo,"  and  entered 
a  wigwam.  Each  man  here  has  two  wives  (excepting,  of 
course,  our  party).  All  dress  in  a  more  primitive  way  even 
than  myself  during  the  shooting  of  the  rapids.  As  the  wig- 
wams have  no  sides,  we  can  look  around  on  the  domestic 
arrangements  of  each  happy  family.  One  proud  matron  has 
two  pairs  of  garters  ornamenting  her  dusky  legs  and  two 
pairs  of  bracelets  on  her  shapely  arms,  and  the  beautiful 
blending  of  natural  complexion  with  that  achieved  by  the 
juice  of  achote,  makes  her  one  of  the  grandest  features  in  this 
region  of  scenic  delight. 

I  noticed  one  feature  that  shows  how  the  influence  of  civ- 
ilization has  penetrated  these  mountains.  The  chief  thrashed 
his  dog  for  presuming  to  clean  the  cooking  utensils  before  the 
family  had  eaten  their  contents.  I  have  sworn  by  the  holy 
San  Marcos  to  be  that  good  man's  friend  forever. 

Another  night  has  passed,  and  as  the  morning  breaks,  an 
obstacle  to  travel  presents  itself.  Don  Guadalupe,  our  ' '  major- 
domo,"  has  had  a  bad  attack  of  cholera  morbus,  which  we 
supposed  to  have  under  control  yesterday.  To-day  we  have 
f«ars  that  cholera  symptoms  are  prevailing.  We  must  wait 
here,  for  he  has  been  a  faithful  friend.  He  lies  on  one  side  of 
us  in  agony,  and  on  the  other  the  Indians  are  eating  breakfast, 
cutting  ten-incli  plantains  with  two-foot  "  machetes."  At  four 
p.  M.,  we  have  seen  that  the  end  is  near. 

We  allow  the  Indians  to  handle  none  of  our  utensils,  scald- 
ing each  article,  and  have  our  clothing  hanging  in  the 
smoke. 

At  9.17  P.  M.,  Senor  Don  Guadalupe  Carrillo,  alcalde  of 
Rio  Tinto,  died  at  Sumos  Pueblo,  Honduras,  C.  A. 

We  two,  Mr.  Hincs  and  myself,  stood  on  his  right,  the  In- 
dians on  the  left.  Yesterday  he  was  guiding  me  through  a 
swift  rapid;  to-night  he  crossed  the  dark  river,  but  his  guide 
was  unseen.  Dami  Samu  has  placed  the  body  on  the  ground, 
a  little  cedar  cross  on  the  breast.  The  pine  knots  flicker  and 
light  up  his  haggard  face  as  he  lies  beneath  our  swinging  beds, 
the  hogs,  dogs,  and  cats  being  kept  away  only  by  constant 
vigilance. 


100  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

At  dinner  on  the  rocks,  yesterday,  he  was  one  of  the  fatal 
number — thirteen . 

Farewell,  good  and  faithful  friend !  Thou  wert  true  to  Don 
Guillermo,  who  in  thought  sees  tliee  on  the  shore  of  the  river 
where  death  is  vanquished  and  life  is  eternal. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th,  leaving  two  of  our  Indians  to 
bury  Don  Guadalupe,  we  continued  our  j  /urney,  entering  Rio 
Patuca  at  11.51  A.  M.  Its  beautiful  banks  were  like  a  terraced 
lawn,  a  fringe  of  heavy  grass  against  a  background  of  forest. 
I  began,  almost  unconsciously,  humming  from  Haydn's  Crea- 
tion, "Most  beautiful  appear,"  for  the  rich,  fertile  lands  and 
fresh  verdure  suggested  not  only  beauty,  but  a  grand  future 
of  wealth  to  those  who  were  here  in  this  paradise.  Of  croco- 
diles there  were  many,  an  enormous  fellow  lying  on  the  hank 
iu  easy  range,  tempting  me  to  Dilute  him.  My  salute  was 
forcible  as  a  Colt's  44  revolver  could  make  it,  and  as  the  lead  n 
compliment  went  to  him,  it  glanced  from  his  scaly  covering  as 
harmless  as  flattery  tossed  to  an  experienced  society  belle. 
Mr.  Mines'  rifle  caused  another  leviathan  to  toss  his  head,  and 
with  a  loud  voice  acknowledge  that  he  felt  hurt  at  the  pre- 
sumption. Through  the  beautiful  1  nds,  amid  forest  and  sa- 
vana,  we  went  all  day,  till,  at  seven  p.  M.,  we  entered  the  hos- 
pitable house  of  Mr.  Nestor  A.  Gross,  and  1  spent  a  good  part 
of  the  night  in  talking  with  him  and  Mr.  Charles  Coleman.  We 
shall  long  remember  the  sack  of  flour  and  the  cut  loaf  sugar — 
a  gift — for,  as  we  lunched  on  batter-cakes  and  turtle  eggs,  we 
thought  of  their  liberality  with  every  liberal  mouthful. 

The  next  day,  while  eating  of  the  flesh  of  a  very  tender 
iguana,  I  looked  at  the  face  of  an  enormous  cliff,  and  wondered 
if,  amid  this  beauty  on  one  side  and  the  fertility  on  the  other, 
the  crocodile  should  monopolize  it,  or  a  teeming  population  of 
workers  find  health,  sustenance,  and  life. 

Our  return  journey  is  of  necessity  slow,  and  as  I  stand  in 
the  water  after  wading,  and  wait  for  our  boatmen  to  reach  us, 
I  improve  the  opportunity  by  committing  to  memory  from  a 
Spanish  book  a  number  of  verbs  and  nouns;  also  a  few  phrases. 
My  neighbor  smiles  at  my  energy  under  the  circumstances; 
but  it  is  all  the  chance  I  have,  and  the  boatmen  wonder  why  I 
do  it  (for  have  I  not  someone  with  me  who  can  speak  for 


MR.  PACKER'S  DIARY.  101 

me?)  not  knowing  that  one  of  the  joys  of  existence  is  to  do 
your  own  talking;  and  this  is  no  dreary,  poorly  ventilated 
school-room,  but  in  each  breath  of  Honduras  air  there  is  an 
impulse  to  do  and  persevere. 

One  thing  we  have  failed  to  do — secure  any  steaks  from 
the  euormous  tapirs  that  frequent  this  region.  We  have  shot 
three,  but  they  have  died  in  almost  inaccessible  places,  and 
our  time  has  been  of  "  more  value  than  many  tapirs." 

We  are,  on  the  14th  of  January,  at. camp  on  a  sandbank.  A 
hut  covered  with  twenty -nine  plantain  leaves  is  sufficient  shel- 
ter against  the  weather;  but  we  must  sleep  lightly,  for  on  one 
side  is  a  mountain  swarming  with  jaguars,  twenty-seven  feet 
from  our  hut  the  crocodile  marks  of  to-day,  and  with  us  five 
beings  who  have  not  yet  known  what  Matthew  Arnold  called 
"  the  humanization  of  man  in  society  " — viz.,  civilization — and 
who  have  not  forgotten  that  we  took  them,  with  no  very  gentle 
words,  from  their  hunting  and  fishing,  to  toil  here  for  money 
which  they  do  not  worship.  Our  guide  and  his  family  have 
deserted,  so  we  have  only  five  attendants  left,  and  they  would 
rather  hunt  and  swim  than  continue  the  journey.  Onward  we 
go,  however,  carefully  watching,  and  at  last  we  reach  the  hut 
where  I  am  writing.  Close  by  us  is  a  wild  cotton  plant,  so 
large  I  hardly  dare  speak  of  its  size.  Mr.  Hines  has  crawled 
into  it  four  feet  from  the  ground,  and,  stretching  his  hands  up- 
ward, asks  for  a  stick  to  touch  the  top.  Nearly  three  hundred 
bolls  of  superfine  cotton  growing,  and  so  each  of  us  must  secure 
a  quantity  of  seed  to  send  to  North  America. 

I  wish  I  could  tell  you  more  of  this  choice  spot  on  earth, 
but  till  our  road  is  made  you  will  prefer  to  delay  coming. 
In  two  months  we  expect  to  have  reduced  the  time  four  days, 
and  made  stations  that  one  may  travel  with  a  surety  of  com- 
fort which  we  long  for,  as  at  present  we  are  very  tired.  Not 
one  hour  for  sixteen  days  have  we  had  dry  clothing,  or  a  dry 
blanket  at  night,  except  the  one  night  when  we  found  a  dry 
bed  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Gross.  We  are  well,  however,  which 
is  the  best  evidence  that  the  climate  of  Honduras  is  par  excel- 
lence, and  that  we  are  tough. 


102  THE  REPUBLIC  OF  HONDURAS. 

III. 

CONDITION   OF   THE   COUNTRY. 

Something  about  the  political  and  financial 
condition  of  Honduras  at  the  present  time  may 
be  thought  in  place  by  those  who  may  read 
these  pages  with  a  view,  soon  or  late,  of  trying 
their  fortunes  in  this— to  them — new  world. 

It  may  be  stated  at  once  that  the  country 
has  never  enjoyed  a  more  peaceful  era,  or  one 
characterized  by  greater  enlightenment. 

The  religion  is  the  Roman  Catholic,  but  the 
constitution  guarantees  absolute  freedom  in 
religious  matters.  Church  and  state  are  sep- 
arated, but  the  utmost  harmony  prevails  be- 
tween the  two.  The  existing  tolerance  may  be 
understood  from  the  fact  that  there  are  Baptist 
and  Methodist  churches  on  the  Bay  Islands 
and  on  the  mainland,  as,  for  example,  at  San 
Pedro  Sula.  % 

Of  the  Protestant  religions  represented  in 
the  country,  there  are,  I  believe,  some  two 
thousand  Methodists,  a  few  Episcopalians  and 
Presbyterians,  two  or  three  Spiritualists,  two 
Buddhists,  two  Anabaptists,  and  one  or  two 
Lutherans. 

The  population  of  Honduras,  for  the  past 
century,  has  been  estimated  as  follows  : 


CONDITION   OF  THE  COUNTRY.  103 

Year.  Inhabitants. 

1791 95, 500 

1826 200,000 

1881 307,289 

1887 331,957 

The  male  population  is  163,073;  the  female, 
168,884. 

Of  the  foreign  element,  there  are  1,033 
English  subjects,  592  of  these  dwelling  in  the 
Bay  Islands.  The  others  are  mostly  in  the 
north  coast  departments  of  Santa  Barbara  and 
Colon.  There  are  about  two  hundred  North 
Americans  in  the  country. 

For  every  human  being  at  present  in  Hon- 
duras there  are  eighty  acres  of  land. 

From  the  very  first,  President  Bogran  firmly 
refused  to  repudiate  the  great  debt  imposed 
upon  the  country,  some  twenty  years  since,  in 
connection  with  the  then  proposed  inter- 
oceanic  railroad.  That  enormous  burden  was 
contracted,  as  everyone  knows,  by  the  issue  of 
bonds,  which,  the  railroad  not  being  built— 
save  the  poorly  equipped  little  branch  from 
Puerto  Cortez  inland  to  San  Pedro  Sula^-the 
republic  refused  to  pay.  At  last,  however, 
and  after  strenuous  efforts,  the  government 
has  effected  an  arrangement  with  London 
capitalists,  by  means  of  which  the  old  claim 


104  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

will  be  canceled  and  the  railroad  actually 
built. 

The  financial  condition  of  the  republic  in 
other  respects  is  sound.  The  public  debt — ex- 
clusive of  the  railroad  enormity — has  been 
gradually  reduced  during  President  Bogran's 
administration. 

The  income  of  the  republic  for  the  fiscal 
year  ending  July,  1888,  was  $2,818,264.51,  and 
the  expenditure  for  the  same  period,  $2,826,- 
531.91.  This  would  show  an  outlay  of  $8,267.40 
greater  than  the  income;  but  $617,341.94  was 
paid  toward  extinguishing  the  public  debt 
showing  an  actual  gain  of  $609,074.54  for  the 
year.  The  government's  intention  is  to  pay 
over  half  a  million  of  the  remaining  debt 
during  the  year  1889,  and  thus  to  leave  less  than 
$200,000  of  debt  to  be  carried  over  into  the 
year  1890.  The  country  has  nearly  $600,000 
invested  in  public  roads  and  other  permanent 
improvements;  $216,028  in  public  buildings; 
$121,234.15  in  articles  from  which  the  govern- 
ment derives  an  income,  and  $2,355,187.58  in 
telegraph,  military,  and  postal  service  equip- 
ments. The  income  of  the  republic  from 
revenues  and  customs  for  the  month  of  August, 
1889,  was  as  follows : 


CONDITION    OF   THE    COUNTRY.  105 

Port  of  Amapala $  43,010.921 

Port  of  Puerto  Cortez 25,900.66 

Port  of  Las  Islas 9,193.25 

Department  of  Colon 15,942.73£ 

Department  of  Tegucigalpa .' 23,904.71 

Department  of  Santa  Barbara 10,593.76 

Department  of  Comayagua 8,147.20^ 

Department  of  La  Paz 4,513.27i 

Department  of  Copan ll,994.97i 

Department  of  Gracias 6,095.5U 

Department  of  Choluteca 12,876.851 

Department  of  El  Paraiso 9,067. 73£ 

Department  of  Yoro 4,680.69£ 

Department  of  Intibuca 3,756.91 

Department  of  Olancho 12,293.78 

Total $201,972.98* 

The  import  duties  are  calculated  at  so  much 
per  pound,  according  to  class,  upon  the  mer- 
chandise.* Goods  belonging  to  Class  I.  are 
duty  free.  The  rate  for  Class  II.  is  two  cents 
per  pound;  for  Class  III.,  four  cents;  for  Class 
IV.,  eight  cents;  for  Class  V.,  twelve  cents;  for 
Classes  VI. ,  VII.,  VIII. ,  IX.,  and  X.,  respect- 
ively, eighteen  cents,  twenty-four  cents,  thirty 
cents,  and  fifty  cents.  For  Class  XI.,  the  duty 
is  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  per  pound.  For 
liquors,  the  duty  is  sixteen  cents  per  pound, 
and  for  spirits,  twenty-eight  cents. 

It  has  been  hoped  by  many  that  the  Uni^ 
versa!  American  Congress  of  1889  would  do 

*  See  importations  for  year  1887-88,  in  Appendix. 


106  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

much  to  increase  the  trade  between  Honduras 
—and  other  Central  American  republics — and 
the  United  State^.  In  relation  to  this  subject, 
the  Hon.  D.  W.  Herring,  formerly  American 
Consul  at  Tegucigalpa,  gave,  not  long  since,  in 
an  article  in  the  American  Exporter,  some  ex- 
cellent advice  to  merchants  and  manufacturers 
of  the  United  States.  "They  would  do  well," 
he  said,  "  to  study  the  peculiarities  of  Central 
American  trade.  Over  good  roads,  each  freight 
mule  may  be  required  to  carry  two  hundred 
and  fifty  pounds.  When  the  trails  are  rough, 
mountainous,  or  muddy,  the  maximum  limit  of 
weight  for  a  cargo  is  two  hundred  pounds,  and 
his  should  be  divided  into  two  packages  as 
nearly  as  possible  alike,  so  as  to  be  slung  over 
the  native  pack-saddle*  and  rest  on  each  side  of 
the  mule.  No  package  should  weigh  over  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  pounds  if  going  over 
a  good  trail,  or  more  than  one  hundred  pounds 
when  there  is  no  certainty  that  the  road  will  be 
smooth,  level,  and  dry.  The  best  rule  is  to 
limit  the  weight  in  all  cases  to  one  hundred 
pounds,  including  casing  or  box.  Duties  in 
Honduras  are  charged  by  the  weight  of  the  im- 
ports— boxes,  barrels,  sacks,  or  other  casing 
included.  It  is  easy  to  see  how  the  shipper  of 


CONDITION   OF   THE   COUNTRY.  107 

goods  to  this  country  may  increase  the  amount 
of  duties  and  freight  charges  on  a  consignment, 
without  adding  to  the  profits  of  the  importer 
or  strengthening  the  inclination  of  the  buyer  to 
increase  his  orders. 

"  Boxes  should  be  made  of  some  thin,  tough 
lumber,  such  as  elm  would  make,  and  should 
snugly  fit  the  goods  they  inclose,  or  be  stuffed  full 
in  the  vacant  places  around  the  article  shipped 
with  some  light  material,  or  so  braced  that  they 
will  resist  the  crushing  tendency  of  the  lassos 
or  ropes  used  for  lashing  the  cargo  to  the 
saddle. 

"Coal  oil  should  be  shipped  in  zinc  cans. 
When  shipped  in  wooden  barrels,  it  is  not  only 
too  much  wasted  by  evaporation,  but  barrels 
are  very  liable  to  breakage  by  rough  handling, 
or  to  be  punctured  by  nails,  rocks,  etc.  The 
import  duty  is  two  cents  per  pound,  and  coal 
oil  sells  here  at  one  dollar  and  twenty-five 
cents  to  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  per  gallon. 
Besides  candles,  coal  oil.  lights  are  the  only 
kind  used." 

There  are  two  good  banking  houses  now  in 
Tegucigalpa.  The  Banco  Nacional  Hondurefio 
will  buy  and  sell  foreign  drafts,  and  issue  drafts 
and  bills  against  the  public  treasury  and  cus- 


108  THE   REPUBLIC    OF   HONDURAS. 

torn-houses  of  the  republic.  Its  rate  of  discount 
is  one  percent,  per  month.  It  receives  deposits 
at  four  per  cent,  per  annum  for  three  months, 
and  at  six  per  cent,  per  annum  for  six  months. 
The  president  is  the  Hon.  Don  Ponciano  Planas; 
the  manager,  Don  J.  Diaz  Duran. 

The  Banco  Centro  Americano  does  a  general 
banking  business,  buying  and  selling  exchange 
and  discounting  bills.  The  president  is  Don 
Santos  Soto;  the  directors,  Don  Ignacio  Agur- 
cia  and  Don  Cipriano  Velasquez;  the  manager 
is  Don  Julio  Lozano. 

American  gold,  paper  money,  and  drafts  com- 
mand a  premium  of  twenty-five  to  thirty -five 
per  cent. 

The  Hondurenos  are  a  peaceful  and  friendly 
people.  Exclusive  of  a  few  of  the  Indians 
in  the  remoter  districts,  they  are  wonderfully 
kind  and  hospitable  to  all  strangers.  You 
can  travel  from  ^Amapala  to  Puerto  Cortez, 
alone  and  utterly  unarmed,  with  any  amount 
of  money  and  jewels  upon  your  person,  and 
have  no  fears  whatever. 

The  people  have  great  reverence  and  affection 
for  their  President.  General  Bogran  could  not 
possibly  be  more  popular  than  he  is  with  all 
classes.  He  was  born  June  3,  1849,  and  is 


CONDITION   OF   THE   COUNTRY.  109 

therefore  still  young.  He  was  educated  in  Eu- 
rope, then  returned  and  became  a  soldier, 
serving  honorably  in  time  of  revolutions,  and 
returning  home,  when  peace  wTas  brought  about, 
to  devote  himself  to  agricultural  pursuits. 
When  President  Soto  resigned,  in  1883,  an 
election  was  called,  according  to  the  constitu- 
tion, and  Luis  Bogran  was  enthusiastically 
chosen  by  the  people  to  stand  at  their  head. 
The  presidential  term  of  Honduras,  like  that  of 
the  United  States,  is  for  four  years.  In  1887, 
Bogran  was  unanimously  reelected  for  another 
four-year  period.  The  President  is  charming 
personally.  He  is  deeply  interested  in  agricult- 
ure, and  has  a  fine  country  place  in  Santa 
Barbara,  where  he  resides  with  his  family  dur- 
ing certain  months  of  the  year. 

The  Cabinet  is  composed  of  Ministers  or  Sec- 
retaries. The  members  at  present  are  :  Secre- 
tary of  State,  Hon.  Don  Simeon  Martinez; 
Secretary  of  Public  Works,  Hon.  Don  Fran- 
cisco Planas ;  Secretary  of  War,  Hon.  Don 
Francisco  Alvarado. 

There  is  a  Senate  and  a  Chamber  of  Deputies, 
who  are  elected  from  the  thirteen  departments. 
Each  department  has  a  Governor. 

Elementary  education  is  compulsory.     There 


110  THE   REPUBLIC    OF   HONDURAS. 

are  free  schools  in  all  the  villages.  The  rights 
of  property  and  personal  security  are  taught 
to  be  regarded  as  sacred. 

The  better  classes  are  well-read  and  thought- 
ful. The  President  has  fine  literary  taste,  and 
lends  his  approval  to  all  literary  and  scientific 
organizations.  He  is  a  member  of  the  Hondu- 
ras Scientific  Literary  Academy,  and  is  doing 
much  to  encourage  the  Society  of  Antiquities, 
lately  organized.  This  society  is  to  construct 
and  maintain  a  museum  at  Copan.  It  will 
undertake  to  explore  that  region  for  antiqui- 
ties, and  to  preserve  them  and  the  Copan 
ruins.  It  is  to  enjoy  the  privilege  of  exploring 
all  ruins  throughout  the  republic,  beginning 
February  1, 1890.  The  government  has  granted 
the  society  two  caballerias  of  land  at  the  spot 
where  the  museum  is  to  be  built.  Mr.  E.  W. 
Perry  is  one  of  the  principal  organizers  of  the 
society. 

There  are  seventeen  newspapers  printed  in 
Honduras.  In 'Tegucigalpa:  La  Nation,  La 
Republica,  El  Tren,  Los  Debates,  La  Gaceta 
Ofitial,  La  Academia,  La  Reinsta  Judicial, 
El  Estudiante,  El  Catolico,  Honduras  Prog- 
ress;  in  Comayagua  :  El  Repiiblicano;  in  Santa 
Eosa  :  El  Independiente,  El  Ensayo;  in  Santa 


CONDITION   OF   THE   COUNTRY.  Ill 

Barbara :  El  Progreso;  in  Trujillo  :  El  Repub- 
licano,  La  Prensa  Libre,  El  Democrata. 

The  postal  service  is  well  conducted,  and  let- 
ters are  promptly  received  and  dispatched, 
although  the  couriers  are  mostly  foot-travelers. 
Some  of  these  men  make  the  most  astonishing 
trips  between  the  coast  and  the  interior,  out- 
stripping mounted  passengers,  and  always 
arriving  safe  and  sound  at  their  destination, 
with  their  heavy  bags  of  mail-matter  upon  their 
shoulders.  They  make  a  great  many  short 
cuts  across  the  mountains,  letting  themselves 
down  perpendicular  hill-sides,  and  creeping  up 
ascents  that  are  almost  sheer  walls.  They  usu- 
ally make  some  town  by  nightfall,  but  if  not, 
they  can  curl  themselves  up  and  sleep  comfort- 
ably anywhere,  provided  it  be  a  dry  spot.  The 
schedule  of  the  mail  arrivals  and  departures 
for  the  month  of  August,  1889,  gives  some  idea 
of  the  service : 

MAILS  LEAVE  TEGUCIGALPA. 

August  2d. — For  Sabanagrande,  Pcspir'e,  Nacaome,  Repub- 
lic of  Salvador  (by  San  Miguel),  La  Brea,  Auiapala,  Corinto, 
San  Juan  del  Sur,  Puntarenas,  Panama,  South  America,  Antil- 
las,  NorUi  America,  Europe,  etc. 

August  llth. — For  Sabanagrande,  Pespire,  Nacaome,  San 
Miguel,  La  Brea,  Amapala,  La  Union,  La  Libertad,  Acajutla, 
San  Salvador,  San  Jos6  de  Guatemala,  and  Champerico. 

August  IWi. — For  Sabanagrande,  Pespire,  Nacaome,  Re- 


112  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

public  of  Salvador  (by  San  Miguel),  La  Brea,  Amapala,  Co- 
rinto,  San  Juan  del  Sur,  Puntarenas,  Panama,  South  America, 
Antillas,  North  America,  Europe,  etc. 

August  2Qth. — For  Sabanagrande,  Pespire,  Nacaome,  Re- 
public of  Salvador  (by  San  Miguel),  La  Brea,  Amapala,  Co- 
rinto,  San  Juan  del  Sur,  Puntarenas,  Panama,  South  America, 
Antillas,  North  America,  Europe,  etc. 

August  21st.—  For  Sabanagrande,  Pespire,  Nacaome,  Repub- 
lic of  Salvador  (by  San  Miguel),  La  Brea,  Amapala,  La  Union, 
La  Libertad,  Acajutla,  San  Jose  de  Guatemala,  and  Cham- 
perico. 

August  26tfi.—  For  Sabanagrande,  Pespire,  Nacaome,  Re- 
public of  Salvador  (by  San  Miguel),  La  Brea,  and  Amapala. 

August  30th  or  3lst. — For  Sabanagrande,  Pespire,  Nacaome, 
Republic  of  Salvador  (by  San  Miguel),  La  Brea,  Amapala,  La 
Union,  La  Libertad,  Acajutla,  San  JGSJ  de  Guatemala,  Cham 
perico,  Republic  of  Mexico  (by  Acapulco),  United  States,  Asia, 
and  Oceanica  (by  San  Francisco,  Cal.). 

MAILS  ARRIVE  AT  TEGUCIGALPA. 

August  3tf.— From  Amapala,  La  Brea,  Nacaome,  Republic 
of  Salvador  (by  San  Miguel),  Pespire,  and  Sabanagrande. 

August  Wi. — From  abroad,  by  Panama;  from  Costa  Rica 
and  Nicaragua;  from  Amapala,  La  Brea,  Nacaome,  Republic 
of  Salvador  (by  San  Miguel),  Pespire,  and  Siibanagrunde.- 

August  IQth. — From  abroad,  by  Panama;  from  Costa  Rica 
and  Nicaragua;  from  Mexico  (by  Acapulco);  from  Cham  perico, 
Guatemala,  and  Salvador  (by  Amapala);  from  La  Brea,  Xaca- 
ome,  San  Miguel,  Pespire,  and  Sabanagrande. 

August  2Qth. — From  abroad,  by  Panama;  from  Costa  Rica 
and  Nicaragua;  from  Amapala,  La  Brea,  Nacaome,  Republic 
of  Salvador  (by  San  Miguel),  Pespire,  and  Sabanagrande. 

August  21^.— From  San  Francisco,  California,  .Mexico  (by 
Acapulco),  Guatemala  and  Salvador  (by  Amapala);  from  La 
Brea,  Nacaome,  San  Miguel,  Pespire  and  Sabanagrande. 

August  29th. — From  Guatemala  and  Salvador  (by  Amapala), 
La  Brea,  Nacaome,  San  Miguel,  Pespire,  and  Sabanagrande. 

August  30M. — From  abroad,  by  Panama;  from  Costa  Rica 


CONDITION   OF   THE   COUNTRY.  113 

and  Nicaragua;  from  Amapala,  La  Brea,  Nacaome,  Republic 
of  Salvador  (by  San  Miguel),  Pespire,  and  Sabanagrande. 

The  mail  steamers  proceeding  from  Panama  arrive  at  Ama- 
pala on  the  following  days  of  each  month:  4th,  6th,  16th,  and 
26th. 

They  leave  for  Panama  and  intermediate  ports  on  the  fol- 
lowing days:  5th,  6th,  17th,  and  25th. 

The  mail  which  leaves  on  the  2d  of  each  month  will  carry 
correspondence  for  La  Union,  La  Libertad,  Acajutla,  San  Jose* 
de  Guatemala,  Champerico,  and  Acapulco,  Republic  of  Mexico. 

SOME    GENERAL    POSTAL  RULES. 

The  post-office  is  opened  for  the  public  service  on  mail  days 
from  8  to  11  A.  M.,  and  2  to  4  p.  M.  After  4  p.  M.,  no  corre- 
spondence is  admitted. 

Postage  to  the  interior  of  the  republic,  to  Guatemala,  Sal- 
vador, Nicaragua,  and  Costa  Rica  is  as  follows:  Letters,  from 
15  to  50  grammes,  5  cents;  printed  matter,  for  each  50  grammes, 
1  cent;  commercial  circulars,  5  cents  for  the  first  230  grammes, 
and  1  cent  for  each  additional  50  grammes;  samples,  2  cents 
for  the  first  100  grammes,  and  1  cent  for  each  additional  50 
grammes;  packages,  3,  5,  15,  25  cents  for  each  450  grammes 
in  the  respective  distances  of  5,  10,  20,  35  leagues;  over  35 
leagues,  40  cents. 

The  postage  for  foreign  countries  is  double  that  for  Cen- 
tral America.  Packages  are  admitted  only  for  Central  Amer- 
ica. 

The  sender  of  a  letter,  addressed  to  whatever  country  in  the 
postal  union,  can  partially  frank  it,  or  not  at  all,  but  the  re- 
ceiver has  to  pay  double  the  amount  of  the  deficiency. 

.The  previous  frank  of  letters  is  necessary  with  letters  for 
countries  which  do  not  belong  to  the  postal  union,  and  inland 
letters;  this  is  also  a  rule  with  all  and  any  class  of  correspond- 
ence. Paper  mail  and  other  printed  matter  for  Central  Amer- 
ica are  free. 

Correspondence  addressed  to  the  bishop  and  postmasters  are 
free  of  postage. 

Letters  containing  enclosures,  such  as  gold,  silver,  jewelry, 
etc.,  are  not  admitted. 
8 


114  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

Packages  containing  inflammables,  explosives,  or  matters 
easily  decomposed,  are  not  admitted,  nor  those  exceeding  the 
size  and  weight  as  stated  in  the  postal  tariff. 

The  mail  closes  at  4  p.  M. 

The  Postmaster-General  is  an  American,  Mr. 
Bert  Cecil,  who  received  the  appointment  in 
December,  1889.  Mr.  Cecil  is  also  Director- 
General  of  the  Telegraph. 


IV. 

SOME   POLKS  YOU  MAY  OK  MAY  NOT  MEET. 

You  might  go  to  Honduras,  arriving  from 
the  Pacific  side,  and  live  year  in  and  year  out, 
at  Tegucigalpa  or  other  interior  city,  without 
so  much  as  catching  a  glimpse  of  a  Carib. 
And  yet  you  will  nearly  always  find  them 
mentioned,  if  not  discoursed  upon,  in  the  writ- 
ings of  travelers  who  have  visited  Honduras. 
For  my  own  part,  I  find  these  creatures — they 
are  hardly  human  beings — in  no  way  attract- 
ive. They  have  certain  negative  virtues;  they 
are  clean  in  their  habits,  and  they  are  not  given 
to  murder.  Their  life  is  polygamous;  the  lazy 
males  are  supported  by  their  wives,  who  are 
much  the  more  muscular  and  stalwart  of  the 
two.  They  are  coast-dwellers,  and  may  also 
be  found  in  the  Bay  Islands.  I  have  seen  it 


FOLKS   YOU  MAY   OR  MAY   NOT  MEET.      115 

alleged  that  they  are  fine  linguists,  speaking 
Spanish,  English,  Indian,  and  Mosquito,  be- 
sides their  own  tongue;  but  I  have  never  heard 
anything  but  gibberish  from  them,  myself. 
There  is  an  old  Indian  legend  that  tells  of  the 
experiments  of  the  gods  in  creating  man. 
They  made  a  man  of  clay,  but  he  was  no  good; 
the  rain  soon  dissolved  him.  They  tried  again 
with  cork.  These  cork  men  did  not  become 
perfect.  They  had  heathenish  proclivities,  and 
were  destroyed  by  a  cataclysm,  only  a  few 
remaining — a  degenerate  kind,  supposed  to  be 
the  apes.  The  third  trial  was  successful,  the 
material  employed  being  corn.  I  think  the 
Caribs  must  have  sprung  from  the  degenerate 
survivors  of  the  second  experiment.  Isabel 
Cantini,  a  clever  writer  in  Puerto  Cortez,  says: 

Outwardly,  the  men  differ  imperceptibly  from  some  of  the 
African  tribes.  It  is  in  their  mental  characteristics  that  they 
show  a  marked  difference.  The  common  African  is  anxious 
to  forget  his  native  land  and  its  customs,  and  adopt  what  he 
considers  civilization — that  is,  dress  and  manners  of  the  white 
people.  Not  so  the  Caribs;  on  the  contrary,  they  cling  tena- 
ciously to  their  traditions,  and  neither  care  to  inform  an  out- 
sider about  their  private  lives,  nor  do  they  welcome  any  inno- 
vations or  improvements,  and,  if  possible,  would  hinder  any 
attempt  towards  the  progress  of  a  country. 

Their  language — if  the  articulation  of  sounds  jerked  out 
spasmodic-ally  may  be  termed  by  such  a  name — attracts  inva- 
riably the  stranger's  attention.  Whenever  two  or  three  Caribs 


116      THE  REPUBLIC  OF  HONDURAS. 

are  talking  together,  they  create  such  a  hullabaloo  that  the 
unwary  listener  expects  every  moment  that  what  he  takes  to 
be  a  quarrel  will  turn  into  a  fight,  until  a  sudden  burst  of 
laughter  convinces  him  that  this  gibberish,  harsh  and  quarrel- 
some as  it  may  sound,  means  no  ill.  And  yet  their  language 
must  be  based  on  certain  grammatical  rules,  for  some  twenty 
years  ago  a  Belgian  priest  had  succeeded  in  translating  a  part 
of  the  New  Testament  into  the  Carib  dialect.  The  missionary 
priests  who  labored  here,  in  years  long  gone  by,  at  the  con- 
version of  these  people,  can  hardly  boast  of  any  great  success, 
for  the  conversion  was  only  superficial,  and  with  the  depart- 
ure or  expulsion  of  the  priests  the  Caribs  have  returned  to 
their  dual  religion— their  Good  and  Bad  Genius.  The  good  one 
troubles  them  but  very  little,  for  under  all  circumstances  he  can 
not  be  otherwise  than  wise  and  generous;  it  is  the  evil  genius 
that  needs  continually  to  be  propitiated,  being  revengeful  and 
cruel.  Their  feasts  of  Mafia,  as  the  god  of  evil  is  called,  arc 
still  celebrated  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  though  they  are 
no  longer  accompanied  by  the  orgies  and  holocausts  of  former 
days. 

The  common  belief  is  that  they  came  to  the 
Bay  Islands  from  St.  Vincent,  whence  they 
had  been  driven  by  the  Spaniards.  Certain  it 
is  that  the  women  of  the  race  are  all  of  it  that 
is  worth  consideration,  and  they,  simply  be- 
cause they  are  such  tremendous  toilers.  /  Each 
lazy  lout  of  a  male  has  usually  three  wives, 
each  having  her  own  hut,  with  whom  he  con- 
descends to  live  in  turn.  Once  in  awhile,  but 
not  often,  he  may  deign  to  work  for  some 
wood-cutter.  His  chief  occupation  is  the  put- 
ting on  of  fresh  linen,  which  his  Amazonian 
wives  toil  constantly,  knee-deep  in  the  shining 


FOLKS   YOU   MAY   OR   MAY   NOT   MEET.       117 

rivers,  under  the  tropical  sun,  to  whiten  for 
their  abominable  example  of  a  lord  and  master. 
When  the  women  are  not  washing,  they  are 
working  their  plantations  of  bananas,  yams, 
plantains,  and  yuca.  They  dig  the  root  of  the 
last  named  and  grate  it  on  their  curious 
graters,  which  are  made  by  driving  pieces  of 
flint  into  the  surface  of  a  mahogany  board. 
The  skin  is  removed  from  the  root,  which  is 
very  wrhite.  When  the  root  is  grated,  it  is 
placed  in  the  casava  snake.  The  snake  is  of 
palm,  plaited  in  such  a  way  that  its  diameter 
can  be  enlarged  by  pushing  the  ends  toward 
each  other.  The  snake,  empty,  is  about  four 
inches  in  diameter  and  ten  feet  long.  With 
the  ends  shoved  together,  its  length  is  reduced 
to  five  feet  and  the  diameter  enlarged  to  six 
inches.  The  yuca  is  put  in  and  one  end 
fastened.  Then  the  other  end  is  pulled  on,  and 
the  snake  contracts,  forcing  the  juice  of  the 
plant  through  the  meshes.  The  fluid  makes  a 
very  good  quality  of  starch.  The  yuca  when 
removed  from  the  snake  is  called  casava.  The 
casava  is  made  into  large,  thin  cakes,  and 
cooked  on  an  iron  plate  over  a  fire. 

"  The  houses  of  the  Caribs,"  says  Mr.  Charles 
Hansel,  "  are  made  of  a  frame  of  poles;  the  walls 


118  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

are  formed  by  thatching  twigs  loosely  and  fill- 
ing the  interstices  with  the  red  clay  of  the 
country.  The  roof  is  steeply  pitched,  and 
covered  with  the  long  leaves  of  the  cabbage 
palm,  which  is  laid  eight  or  ten  inches  thick, 
and  lasts  seven  or  eight  years.  These  huts  cost 
about  forty  dollars  (sols)  of  Honduras  money. 

"  All  furniture  is  of  mahogany;  and  a  chest, 
two  or  three  stools,  a  table,  and  sometimes  a 
bedstead,  with  a  calabash  or  two,  a  tray,  a 
mortar  for  pounding  maize  or  corn  in,  with  the 
ever-present  casava  grater  and  snake,  and  ham- 
mock, completes  the  household  furnishing." 

At  Puerto  Cortez,  and  at  the  ports  at  which 
the  steamers  for  New  Orleans  touch  after  leav- 
ing Cortez,  in  order  to  load  on  more  bananas, 
there  are  plenty  of  Caribs.  You  will  see  them 
in  their  canoes  or  dories  when  they  bring  out 
fruit — chiefly  bananas— to  the  vessel.  The 
women  do  a  great  deal  of  this,  while  the  men 
seem  to  enjoy  riding  around  merely  for  pleas- 
ure in  their  small  boats.  They  manage  these 
with  wonderful  skill.  It  is  really  a  sight  worth 
seeing — a  dusky  dame  with  a  single  oar  steer- 
ing a  canoe  heavily  laden  with  the  huge 
bunches  of  green  fruit,  and  coming  alongside 
the  steamer  just  in  the  right  place.  There  is  a 


FOLKS  YOU   MAY   OE   MAY   NOT   MEET.      119 

terrific  clamor,  a  good  deal  of  hard  language,  of 
course,    for  a  great  many  of   them  reach  the 
vessel  at  the  same  moment,  and  dispute  their 
turn.    They  know  when  the  steamer  is  due,  and 
are  on  the  lookout.     The  moment  her  whistle 
is    heard,  into    the    canoes    go    the   bananas, 
dragged  hastily  through  the  surf  to  them,  and 
out  they  put,   paddling  and  steering  desper- 
ately to  get  there  first.    The  women  are  usually 
ahead.     They  are  certainly  repulsive  enough  in 
appearance,     with    but    a   calico  garment  or 
two,   the    head    adorned  with  the    inevitable 
handkerchief,  and  countenances  like  huge  apes. 
Their  tongues  run  like  windmills  ;  the  purser 
of  the  steamer  must  be  a  sharp  one  to  battle 
with  them.     As  they  deliver  their  fruit  aboard 
they  receive  a  paper  receipt  for  the  number  of 
bunches,  which  they  present  to  the  purser  in 
order  to  get  their  money.    The  atmosphere  sur- 
rounding the  steamers  while  loading  at  Puerto 
Cortez,  Sarstoon,  Livingston,  and  so  on  up  to 
Belize,  is  one  of  noisy  profanity.     When  they 
have  disposed  of  their  produce,  these  curious 
creatures  dance    around    recklessly  in    their 
empty  boats,  until  you  wonder  why  they  do  not 
fall  into  the  sea  and  get  gobbled  up  by  the 
sharks  which  abound  off  that  coast.     I  stood 


120  THE    REPUBLIC    OF    HONDURAS. 

on  the  deck  of  a  New  Orleans  steamer,  watch- 
ing one  of  them,  who  was  ugly  enough  to  satisfy 
the  most  critical  curiosity-seeker,  and  marvel- 
ing how  anything  so  repulsive  could  really  be 
a  woman,  when  the  second  mate  came  up  and 
joined  me.  "Look  at  that  face,"  he  said,  in  a 
mild  sort  of  despair.  "  Regular  beefsteak  over 
a  clothes-line,  isn't  it  ? "  He  had  been  battling 
with  the  lady  of  the  countenance  referred  to 
for  some  twenty  minutes,  she  having  evinced  a 
disposition  to  thrust  her  canoe  in  ahead  of  a 
man  who  had  preceded  her.  The  second  mate 
sighed,  and  seemed  to  find  a  sort  of  consolation 
in  his  reflection,  which  he  presently  repeated 
without  waiting  for  my  opinion.  "Yes,  sir, 
that's  it,"  he  said;  "  beef  steak  over  a  clothes- 
line— nothing  else  in  the  world !  " 


V. 

SOME  HINTS  FOR  AGRICULTURISTS. 

There  are  a  great  many  people  in  the 
North  who  have  not  large  capital  and  yet 
who  might  do  well  in  Honduras,  and  prove  a 
valuable  accession  to  the  country.  These 
people  know  hardly  anything  about  Central 


SOME   HINTS    FOR   AGRICULTURISTS. 

America,  yet  have  vague  ideas  that  they  would 
like  to  go  there  and  try  their  fortunes.  They 
are  the  people  for  whom  this  book  is  mainly  in- 
tended. What  can  one  profitably  engage  in, 
if  he  go  to  Honduras?  That  is  the  question 
that  they  would  probably  like  answered,  first  of 
all;  and,  in  this  chapter  and  the  next,  an  en- 
deavor will  be  made  to  answer  it.  What  can 
one  engage  in,  without  large  capital,  and  hope 
to  succeed  ?  I  might  answer,  in  a  general  way, 
a  hundred  things.  But  let  us  consider,  in  a 
manner  as  concise  and  practical  as  possible,  the 
principal  chances.  In  the  first  place,  no  one 
should  set  out  for  Honduras  without  having 
pretty  thoroughly  informed  himself  as  to  the 
existing  conditions.  I  should  strongly  advise 
him  to  open  correspondence  with  some  respon- 
sible person  at  Tegucigalpa — as,  for  instance, 
the  representative  of  the  American  Honduras 
Company.  Both  Mr.  Perry  and  Mr.  Imboden 
are  men  of  long  experience  in  the  country,  who 
will  say  neither  a  word  too  much  nor  a  word 
too  little  for  it.  They  will  not  romance  in  its 
favor,  nor  will  they  exaggerate  to  depreciate  it. 
But  let  us  look  at  some  chances  in  agricult- 
ure— first,  the  tropical  staples,  whose  culti- 
vation on  a  moderate  scale  is  easy,  and  requires 


122  THE   REPUBLIC    OF   HONDURAS. 

small  outlay.  These  are  bananas,  cocoa-nuts, 
pine-apples,  oranges,  coffee,  sugar-cane,  lem- 
ons, mangoes,  figs,  pomegranates,  etc. 

The  banana  production  of  Honduras  now 
amounts  to  millions  of  bunches  per  year. 
Each  steamer  leaving  the  north  coast  carries 
from  ten  to  twenty  thousand  bunches,  bought, 
as  brought  out  in  canoes  to  the  vessel,  at  from 
twenty-five  cents  to  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents 
per  bunch.  The  exporting  began  about  ten 
years  ago,  with  one  little  schooner.  There  are 
now  twenty  vessels  which  come  regularly 
to  the  coast  to  load  with  bananas  and  other 
fruits  as  well.  Between  Puerto  Cortez  and  La 
Masca,  near  the  Guatemala  frontier,  a  distance 
of  about  twenty  miles,  there  are  produced 
about  eighty  thousand  bunches  per  month. 
Honduras  at  present  furnishes  the  greater  part 
of  all  bananas  exported  from  Central  America. 
So  great  an  importance,  indeed,  has  her 
banana  production  attained,  that  the  people  of 
*  Belize  (British  Honduras)  have  begun  to  feel 
the  competition  as  something  serious.  A  late 
issue  of  the  Belize  Advertiser  contained  an 
article  in  reference  to  the  subject,  in  which  the 
admission  is  made  that  "in  Puerto  Cortez, 
Omoa,  Cieneguita,  Chetche,  Walla,  Muchelena, 


SOME   HINTS   FOR   AGRICULTURISTS.        123 

Mascot,  and  other  places  in  Honduras,  the  fruit 
is  infinitely  superior  to  any  grown  in,  or  at 
least  shipped  from,"  that  colony  (Belize).  A 
letter  addressed  by  Captain  Leitch,  who  had  a 
contract  with  the  British  Honduras  govern- 
ment, to  the  Colonial  Secretary,  ir  September, 
1889,  asking  for  the  revision  of  the  price  of 
bananas,  says: 

A  superior  class  of  fruit  is  purchased  at  Port  Limon,  Boca 
del  Toro,  and  the  coast  of  Honduras  for  thirty-seven  and  one- 
half  cents  a  bunch,  and  in  consequence  it  is  impossible  for  us 
to  compete  with  the  other  companies;  and  I  have  to  ask  that 
the  standard  bunch  of  eight  hands  be  reduced  from  fifty  to 
thirty-seven  and  one-half  cents. 

And  yet  the  fruit  trade  of  Honduras  may  be 
said  to  be  still  in  its  infancy. 

How  should  one  set  out  to  start  a  banana 
farm  ?  Let  us  see.  First,  we  must  select  some 
good  land,  not  too  far  away  from  a  river,  where 
the  earth  is  deep  and  rich;  for  this  is  a  plant 
that  taxes  the  soil  severely.  The  woods  or 
the  bush  must  be  cleared  by  the  laborers, 
called  peones,  who  do  this  writh  but  twro  tools, 
the  axe  and  the  machete.  The  machete  is 
something  like  a  cutlass;  it  is  the  long,  heavy 
knife  with  which  every  man  of  the  lower 
classes  is  provided,  and  is  carried  in  a  leather 
case  suspended  from  his  belt.  It  is,  in  short, 


124  THE   REPUBLIC    OF   HONDURAS. 

the  universal  sword.  With  this  machete,  be- 
sides the  axe,  a  single  man  can  clear  a  manzana, 
which  is  equal  to  nearly  two  acres,  of  heavily 
wooded  land  in  from  twenty  to  thirty  days. 
Two  men  can,  of  course,  do  the  same  work  in 
from  ten  to  fifteen  days.  The  roughly  cleared 
spot  must  be  left  to  dry  for  about  a  month; 
then  it  is  set  fire  to,  and  the  fire  completes  the 
clearing  process.  Now  we  must  buy  our  suck- 
ers, or  "matas,"  to  plant.  These  we  can  get 
for  about  a  dollar  per  hundred.  For  one  nian- 
zana we  shall  want  about  four  hundred  plants, 
which  we  must  place  about  five  yards  distant 
one  from  another.  One  man  can  dig  about  two 
hundred  holes — he  must  have  a  spade  for  this 
— a  day.  Two  men  can  put  in  the  four  hundred 
of  a  manzana  in  the  same  time.  When  the 
"matas"  are  in  the  ground  they  need  little 
care.  In  about  eight  months  the  first  bunch 
should  be  looked  for.  When  this  is  ready  to 
be  taken  for  the  market,  the  entire  plant  is  cut 
near  the  ground;  this  leaves  a  stump.  New 
sprouts  or  suckers  appear  quickly  on  each  side 
of  this.  Not  more  than  three  should  be  allowed 
to  grow,  in  order  to  have  fine  quality  fruit, 
which  should  be  ready  in  about  six  months, 
when  the  suckers  are  again  cut  down,  and  new 


SOME  HINTS   FOE  AGRICULTURISTS.        125 

ones  again  spring  up.  This  is  the  process, 
which  may  be  repeated  for  six  or  seven  years, 
after  which  it  is  wise  to  turn  the  plantation 
into  something  else  and  give  the  soil  a  rest. 

The  outlay  should  be  something  as  follows, 
for  one  manzana: 

Clearing $10 

Four  hundred  matas 4 

Planting  the  matas 4 

Bringing  them  .... 2 

Cleaning  plantation  first  two  years 10 

Total $30 

The  returns  to  be  expected  for  the  first  two 
years  are :  350  bunches  at  least  from  the  first 
400  plants;  the  second  year,  having  three  new 
suckers  to  each  400,  should  give  at  least  1,000 
bunches,  making  in  all  1,350  bunches.  These 
at,  say,  30  cents  per  bunch,  would  give  $405. 
The  profit  is  $375,  or  over  1,000  per  cent. 

Besides  exporting  bananas  in  their  ordinary 
state,  attention  might  be  turned  to  drying  and 
to  canning  the  fruit.  Mr.  De  Leon,  of  the  firm 
of  De  Leon  &  Alger,  at  Puerto  Cortez,  reports 
that  he  has  made  some  very  successful  experi- 
ments in  canning  bananas  to  send  to  European 
markets. 

Next,  let  us  look  at  the  cocoa-nut  groves. 
The  fifth  or  sixth  year  after  the  planting,  the 


126  THE   IlEPtTBLiC   OF  HONDURAS. 

cocoa-nut  palm  bears  fruit;  thence  on,  they 
say,  for  a  hundred  years.  The  cocoa-nut  plan- 
tations are  mostly  near  the  coast,  and,  to  a 
stranger,  present  a  beautiful — indeed,  I  may 
say  a  marvelous — picture.  The  leaves  are  like 
tremendous  feathers  waving  in  the  breeze,  some 
of  them  being  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  length. 
The  trees  grow  to  a  height  of  from  forty  to 
fifty  feet.  The  average  annual  yield  of  a  tree 
is  one  hundred  nuts,  although  some  produce 
from  two  to  three  hundred.  These  nuts  bring- 
in  New  Orleans  twenty-five  dollars  per  thou- 
sand. They  may  be  marketed  to  the  steamers 
for  a  dollar  and  a  quarter  per  hundred.  A 
plantation  of  five  or  ten  thousand  trees  will 
give  the  owner  an  income  of  five  or  ten  thou- 
sand dollars  per  year,  beyond  expenses. 

The  leaves  of  the  trees  may  be  used  for 
thatching  houses,  for  making  sails,  baskets, 
and  mats.  From  the  nuts,  when  half  ripe, 
is  obtained  a  pleasant  drink  called  pipa.  The 
nut-meat  is  used  in  many  ways  as  food;  the  hull 
and  the  bark  will  make  string  and  nets,  and 
the  oil  of  the  nut  can  be  used  for  half  a  dozen 
different  purposes. 

The  cultivation  of  pine-apples  and  oranges 
may  be  advantageously  combined  with  banana 


SOME  HINTS    FOK  AGRICULTURISTS.        127 

and  cocoa-nut  plantations.     These,  as  well  as 
lemons  and  limes,  appear  to  be  indigenous. 

Coffee  is  grown  in  the  uplands  of  the  interior 
with  great  success.  The  question  of  transpor- 
tation thence  to  the  coast  but  needs  to  be 
solved,  in  order  that  coffee  plantations,  similar 
to  those  of  Costa  Rica  and  Guatemala,  may  be 
begun  upon  the  many  mountain-sides.  The 
coffee  grows  best  at  an  elevation  of  one 
to  four  thousand  feet.  The  best  kind  of 
land  is  a  slope,  affording  easy  drainage  and 
some  shelter.  On  level  ground  the  coffee  trees 
must  be  planted  in  alternation  with  bananas, 
which  will  provide  shade  for  them.  The  young 
trees  are  usually  set  out  when  they  have 
attained  a  growth  of  eighteen  inches.  The 
holes  should  be  dug  a  few  days  before  the 
plants  are  placed  in  them.  The  plantation 
needs  the  most  watchful  care.  Weeds  must  be 
constantly  removed,  and  insects  looked  out  for. 
The  coffee  blooms  in  March.  The  blossom  is  a 
delicate,  white  flower,  with  the  faintest  imag- 
inable fragrance.  It  lasts  but  a  few  days. 
Fields  of  coffee  in  bloom  are  very  beautiful. 
During  the  rainy  season  the  fruit  is  growing 
and  ripening.  In  November,  with  the  begin- 
ning of  the  summer  season,  or  verano,  the  har- 


128  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

vest  is  ready  to  be  gathered.  There  are  as  yet 
no  great  coffee-benefiting  establishments  in 
Honduras;  these  are  to  come  by  and  by. 

Sugar-cane  fields  may  be  seen  as  one  rides 
down  through  the  splendid  valley  of  Comaya- 
gua,  stretching  off  greenly  into  the  distance. 
Farther  on  toward  the  coast,  in  the  department 
of  Santa  Barbara,  and  near  Lake  rojoa,  there 
are  vast  quantities  of  cane.  In  Olancho  it  is 
extensively  grown,  and,  indeed,  all  over  the 
country  there  is  more  or  less  of  it.  Everyone 
owning  cattle  has  a  patch  to  feed  to  his 
stock.  The  cattle  are  very  fond  of  it.  The 
cane,  with  proper  machinery,  might  be  made  to 
produce  a  sugar  equal  or  superior  to  that  which 
is  imported  and  sold  at  twenty-five  cents  per 
pound.  More  of  the  native  dulce,  or  common 
yellow  product,  might  be  had,  and  at  lower 
prices.  The  aguardiente  which  is  made  from 
it  is  a  government  monopoly,  and  the  right  to 
manufacture  this  has  to  be  obtained  from  the 
government.  There  is  probably  considerable 
illicit  business  carried  on  in  a  small  way. 
Aguardiente  brings  seventy-five  cents  and  one 
dollar  per  bottle. 

Lemons  grow  abundantly  on  the  coast  lands, 
and'  limes  in  the  interior.  Mangoes  grow 


SOME  HINTS   FOR  AGRICULTURISTS.        129 

almost  everywhere.  From  the  mangoes  deli- 
cious preserves  might  be  made,  or  the  fruit 
could  be  canned  for  exportation.  Figs  in  a 
similar  shape  could,  I  think,  be  profitably  sent 
to  North  America  and  Europe.  Pomegranates 
and  granadillas  are  plentiful,  and  are  not  so 
perishable 

On  all  "Tie  north  coast  lands  there  are  found 
a  great  variety  of  other  tropical  fruits,  whose 
cultivation  might  well  be  included  in  a  planta- 
tion. Some  of  these  are  guavas,  anonas,  mel- 
ons, aguacates,  plums,  sapotes,  olives,  and 
negritos. 

From  fruits  we  may  turn  to  other  vegetable 
products  which  may  be  cultivated.  Of  these, 
cotton,  tobacco,  indigo,  vanilla,  cocoa,  pimento, 
ginger,  pepper,  and  capsicum  might  well  be 
considered.  A  general  farm  in  any  mountain 
locality  might  include  potatoes,  rice,  wheat, 
corn,  yams,  plantains,  beans,  and  all  the  tem- 
perate zone  vegetables,  such  as  tomatoes, 
string-beans,  peas,  cabbages,  beets,  turnips, 
cauliflower,  lettuce,  cucumbers,  squashes, 
musk-melons,  celery,  radishes,  etc. 

The  Honduras  tobacco  is  of  excellent  quality. 
Cotton  was  grown  twenty-five  years  ago  in  the 
country,  by  an  American  from  Georgia,  who 


130  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

undertook  its  culture  somewhat  as  an  experi- 
ment. He  chose  the  neighborhood  of  San 
Pedro  Sula,  the  present  inland  terminus  of  the 
railroad  line  starting  from  Puerto  Cortez,  and 
there  planted  several  acres  with  seed  he  had 
brought  from  his  home  in  the  States.  It  was 
that  called  the  Sea  Island  variety.  He  suc- 
ceeded in  producing  cotton  trees  having  stalks 
seven  and  eight  feet  high,  and  measuring  four- 
teen in  circumference.  He  was  able  to  gather 
three  or  four  times  a  year,  the  pickings  pro- 
ducing five  hundred  pounds  to  an  acre.  This 
plantation  yielded  well  for  ten  years  or  so,  at 
the  end  of  which  time  the  trees  seemed  to  run 
to  wood.  There  is  a  native  cotton  which  nearly 
always  has  a  pale-reddish  fibre.  The  chief 
obstacle  would  seem  to  be  the  scarcity  of  labor, 
rendering  it  impossible  to  get  the  cotton  picked 
properly.  With  sufficient  capital,  and  perhaps 
a  certain  amount  of  imported  labor,  one  could 
look  for  large  profits.  Negroes  from  the  United 
States,  who  understood  how  to  do  the  work, 
would  naturally  be  the  best  hands  to  have. 
One  should  set  up  his  own  gins  and  presses, 
and  go  into  the  industry  with  zeal  and  deter- 
mination. 
The  wonderful  wealth  of  Honduras  in  her 


SOME   HINTS   FOR  AGRICULTURISTS.        131 

forests  alone  can  hardly  be  realized  without 
visiting  the  country.  Mahogany,  cedar,  and 
rose-wood  are  the  principal  cabinet-woods  ex- 
ported. The  mahogany  and  rose- wood  are  most 
plentiful  on  the  north  coast;  the  cedar  is  quite 
common  in  all  the  departments.  It  is  found  in 
great  abundance,  as  also  is  the  lignum-vitse, 
in  Comayagua.  Near  the  Sulaco  River  there 
are  some  remarkable  qualities.  There  are  noble 
forests  of  oak,  pine,  ronron,  walnut,  live-oak, 
higueron,  guayacan,  ceiba,  masica,  granadilla, 
greenthorn,  tuberose,  alazar,  guano,  tamarind, 
and  mulberry  for  silk-worms.  Olancho  and 
Colon  have  magnificent  natural  resources  in 
this  direction.  From  the  coast  to  Juticalpa, 
along  the  Guayape  or  Patuca  and  the  Guyam- 
bre,  are  forests  of  balsams,  mahogany,  and 
cedar,  and  vast  tracts  of  pine.  The  dye-woods 
are  abundant — logwood,  fustic,  Brazil-wood, 
and  others.  The  medicinal  trees  and  plants  in- 
clude the  sarsaparilla,  ipecacuanha,  castor-oil 
plant,  Peruvian  bark,  etc.  The  trees  yielding 
resinous  products  comprise  the  copal,  guapinal, 
and  balsam.  The  hule,  or  rubber  tree,  abounds 
on  the  coast. 

According  to  information  supplied  by  Mr. 
Mahler,  of  Puerto  Cortez,  an  old  pioneer  tim- 


132  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

ber  merchant,  the  principal  woods  shipped  at 
present  to  England  and  the  United  States  are 
mahogany,  cedar,  rose-wood,  zebra,  and  fustic. 
He  says: 

The  price  of  mahogany  in  London  ranges  from  one  hun- 
dred and  ten  to  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  dollars  per  one 
thousand  superficial  feet,  and  cedar  from  ninety  to  one  hundred 
and  thirty  dollars  in  gold.  These  are  cut  in  as  long  lengths 
as  can  be  shipped  conveniently,  while  rose-wood,  zebra,  and 
fustic  are  cut  into  short  lengths,  and  are  shipped  as  stowage  or 
ballast,  making  the  freight  on  these  cost  less  than  it  would  for 
long  lengths.  These  latter  are  sold  by  the  ton — rose-wood 
bringing  from  twenty-five  to  forty  dollars,  and  fustic  thirty  to 
forty-five  dollars.  The  logs  are  all  squared  before  shipment, 
so  as  to  avoid  paying  freight  on  the  slabs  and  refuse,  as  well 
as  also  to  take  up  less  space  in  the  vessels. 

The  present  average  cost  of  the  squared  timbers  on  the 
bars,  ready  for  shipment,  is  from  thirty  to  forty  dollars  per 
one  thousand  feet  for  mahogany  and  cedar,  and  eight  to  ten 
dollars  per  ton  for  rose-wood,  fustic,  and  zebra.  Freights 
to  London  for  mahogany  and  cedar  are  from  forty  to  fifty 
dollars  per  one  thousand  feet;  and  as  rose-wood,  zebra,  and 
fustic  are  used  as  stowage,  they  are  shipped  at  a  less  expense, 
the  cost  being  from  five  to  six  dollars  per  ton,  thus  leaving  a 
handsome  profit  to  the  shipper  of  these  woods. 

The  same  gentleman  informs  us  that  the  first 
wood-cutters  in  the  territory  of  Honduras 
came  from  the  British  colony  Belize,  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  bringing  with 
them  their  slaves  and  cattle.  Their  old  camps 
are  yet  partly  visible  among  the  new  and 
thickly  rising  forests  between  the  rivers  Ulua, 
Chamelecon,  Patuca,  and  \Vanks,  on  the  Atlan^ 


SOME   HINTS   FOR  AGRICULTURISTS.         133 

tic  coast  of  this  republic,  the  hunters  after 
timber  frequently  coming  across  sites  occupied 
by  their  forerunners  nearly  two  centuries 
ago. 

Logging  is  a  business  peculiar  to  itself,  and 
requires  a  hardy  set  of  men,  as  there  is  not 
only  a  great  deal  of  hard  work,  but  a  great 
deal  of  exposure  to  the  wet  and  hot  climate  of 
the  coast  lands. 

There  are  usually  thirty  or  forty  men  to  a 
logging  camp,  with  a  foreman.  The  men  are  di- 
vided into  companies,  each  one  having  a  captain. 
There  is  also  the  "  hunter/'  who  examines  trees 
to  be  cut,  and  reports  to  the  foreman.  The  men 
work  by  the  task,  each  one  being  provided  with 
axe  and  machete.  No  tree  is  felled  that  is  less 
than  eight  feet  in  circumference,  two  trees 
making  a  day' s  task  for  a  man.  There  are  some 
trees  found  having  a  circumference  of  twenty- 
five  feet.  Such  will  occupy  four  of  the  most 
expert  men  for  a  day.  The  masica,  or  bread- 
nut  tree,  is  never  cut,  the  leaves  of  this  consti- 
tuting the  food  of  the  cattle  used  to  haul  the 
logs.  The  cutting  of  the  timber  can  be  done 
at  any  time  of  year,  but  usually  the  logs  are 
on  the  river-banks  at  the  beginning  of  the  wet 
season.  There  they  are  stamped  with  the  own- 


134  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

er's  initials  and  rafted  down  the  stream  to  the 
sea,  to  be  loaded  aboard  the  steamer 

The  foreman's  wages  are  from  sixty  to  one 
hundred  dollars  per  month;  the  captains  re- 
ceive fourteen  to  twenty  dollars  per  month  and 
rations;  the  choppers,  ten  to  fourteen  dollars 
per  month  and  rations. 

The  timber  on  government  lands  may  be 
cut  by  anyone  who  has  gone  before  the  Admin- 
istrator of  Customs  and  satisfied  him  that  he 
has  means  to  transport  what  he  cuts  to  market. 
This  is  made  obligatory,  because  formerly  a 
great  deal  was  cut  and  left  to  decay  on  the 
ground. 

Statistics  of  1888  show  that  during  that 
year  there  were  exported  to  the  United  States 
611,538  superficial  feet  of  mahogany  and  cedar, 
representing  in  Honduras  a  value  of  $37,952. 

The  export  duties  on  mahogany  and  cedar 
are  eight  dollars  per  thousand  superficial  feet. 

The  hule,  or  rubber,  is  mostly  taken  from 
the  forests  by  native  huleros,  or  rubber-men, 
who  dispose  of  it  to  the  coast-traders  and  those 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Guayape.  The 
process  is  a  simple  one.  The  hulero  sets  out 
in  the  morning,  provided  with  a  shotgun,  a 
machete,  a  rope  fifteen  or  sixteen  feet  long, 


SOME  HINTS   FOR   AGRICULTURISTS.         135 

and  a  pair  of  climbers  like  those  used  by  tele- 
graph line-men.  He  penetrates  the  forest 
depths  and  looks  out  for  the  slender  rubber 
trees  with  their  smooth  trunks.  He  selects  one, 
and  at  its  base  he  digs  a  hole  in  the  ground  to 
catch  the  sap.  Sometimes  he  cuts  a  joint  of 
bamboo  for  this  purpose.  He  passes  the  rope 
around  the  tree  several  times  and  fastens  the 
end.  Then  he  cuts  the  bark  in  such  a  way  as 
to  make  a  circle  which  slopes  downward  at  the 
point  where  he  wants  the  sap  to  run  to,  some- 
thing like  a  V.  He  arranges  a  piece  of  leaf 
here  to  form  a  spout  from  which  the  sap  may 
fall  into  the  hole  in  the  ground  or  the  bamboo 
joint.  He  then  slowly  mounts  the  tree  by 
means  of  the  rope  and  the  climbers,  cutting 
notches  that  encircle  the  trunk  at  every  eight- 
een inches,  each  one,  like  the  first,  forming  a 
sort  of  V  on  the  side  next  him.  These  begin 
to  bleed  very  soon,  and  the  thick,  cream-colored 
fluid  runs  down  into  the  hole  in  the  ground. 
The  liquid  hule  is  coagulated  with  the  juice  of 
a  wild  vine  which  grows  in  the  forest,  and  after 
a  few  hours  it  has  become  solid  rubber.  A 
good  tree  at  its  first  cutting  should  produce 
forty  or  fifty  pounds  of  rubber. 


136  THE   REPUBLIC    OF   HONDURAS. 

VI. 

LIVE   STOCK,    POULTRY,   ETC. 

The  natural  advantages  of  Honduras  as  a 
country  for  live  stock  are  undeniable.  The 
splendid  valleys  of  Comayagua,  Santa  Barbara, 
Gracias,  Yoro,  Olancho,  and  Colon  are  already 
ranged  in  places  by  herds  of  cattle;  but  there 
is  room  for  a  vast  increase  of  the  industry,  not 
only  in  the  departments  mentioned,  but  in 
others  as  well.  On  the  Pacific  slope,  in  Cho- 
luteca,  La  Paz,  and  Tegucigalpa,  where  there  is 
much  less  rain-fall,  the  pasturage  is  not  as 
good  as  on  the  Atlantic  side,  where  the  moist- 
ure-laden winds  of  the  Caribbean  are  con- 
stantly forcing  themselves  upward  and  bring- 
ing with  them  showers  to  freshen  the  land. 
Nevertheless,  at  certain  seasons,  when  rain 
comes  from  the  Pacific,  there  is  luxuriant  vege- 
tation on  the  slopes  of  the  departments  of  this 
region.  During  long  periods  of  drought  the 
cattle  must  be  fed  with  sugar-cane,  green  corn, 
plantains,  and  various  fruits  of  which  they  are 
fond. 

It  may  be  stated,  then,  that  the  best  regions 
for  grazing  purposes  are  those  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara, Gracias,  Comayagua,  Yoro,  and  Olancho. 


LIVE   STOCK,  POULTRY,  ETC.  137 

These  vast  savanas  are  covered  with,  glorious 
emerald  grasses  the  year  round,  and  are  watered 
at  frequent  intervals  by  beautiful  little  streams. 

In  all  Honduras  there  are  probably  six  hun- 
dred thousand  head  of  cattle.  The  present 
methods  of  breeding  show  some  laudable 
attempts  at  improving  the  stock.  These  are 
being  made  mostly  by  foreigners.  The  natives 
have  yet  much  to  improve.  In  some  parts  of 
the  country  the  cows  are  permitted  to  suckle 
their  calves  far  too  long  a  time.  In  an  inter- 
esting article  upon  the  cattle  of  Honduras,  the 
Hon.  D.  W.  Herring,  formerly  United  States 
Consul,  says  :  "  Frequently  a  cow  may  be  seen 
standing  quietly,  while  a  young  calf  tugging 
at  a  teat  on  one  side  is  aided  in  emptying  the 
udder  by  a  yearling  sucking  away  at  a  teat  on 
the  other  side.  The  spectacle  has  been  seen  of 
a  cow  suckling  a  calf,  while  a  heifer  stood 
sucking  the  opposite  teat,  and  at  the  same  time 
gave  suck  to  her  own  newly  born  scarcely  dried 
by  the  sun."  The  same  writer  says:  uThe 
custom  of  selecting  for  slaughter  the  strongest, 
smoothest,  and  best  bulls  in  the  herd,  has 
doubtless  done  much  to  check  the  natural 
tendency  to  the  improvement  of  the  breed." 

The  cattle  of  the  country  do  not  reach  ma- 


/ 

138  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

turity  early.  The  heifers  do  not  bear  their  first 
calves  until  three  years  old.  No  animals  are 
slaughtered  under  six  or  seven  years. 

The  dangers  that  must  be  guarded  against 
are  those  of  an  occasional  wild  beast,  such  as 
the  mountain  lion  or  the  tiger,  which  will 
kill  young  calves  or  even  yearlings.  There  is 
also  an  insect,  known  as  the  cattle  spider, 
which  sometimes  fastens  itself  upon  the  animal 
just  above  the  hoof.  Unless  treated  in  time 
with  ammonia  or  tobacco  juice,  this  may  result 
in  the  loss  of  the  hoof. 

The  public  lands  are  free  as  pasture-ground 
to  all  cattle-owners;  should  one  wish  to  enclose 
space,  he  must  obtain  the  right  from  the  gov- 
ernment. Fencing  is  not  absolutely  needful; 
the  stock  will  not  stray  from  any  place  to 
which  it  is  accustomed,  when  there  are  shade, 
shelter,  water,  and  no  severe  storms  to  drive  it 
hither  and  thither.  Mr.  Herring  says  that 
"  fifty  cents  per  head  will  pay  all  necessary 
expenses  of  keeping  a  herd  of  cattle  in  Hon- 
duras. The  native  or  Indian  is,  by  instinct, 
training,  and  inclination,  a  '  vaquero,'  or  herds- 
man. He  can  readily  drive  herds  through  the 
forest  paths  among  the  hills,  and  as  readily 
find  any  animals  that  stray  from  the  herd.  He 


LIVE  STOCK,  POULTRY,  ETC.  139 

is  a  keen  hunter,  and  therefore  useful  in  pro- 
tecting the  herd  from  attacks  by  wild  animals. 
Such  men  can  be  hired  for  from  one  hundred 
to  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  year. 
They  are  docile,  faithful,  and  even  affectionate 
to  those  who  deal  justly  with  them.  They  are 
easily  fed,  for  plantains,  bananas,  yams,  and 
other  food  upon  which  they  usually  live,  grow 
in  every  part  of  the  country." 

There  is  a  government  tax  of  two  dollars  per 
head  on  the  sale  of  cattle,  and  a  municipal  tax 
of  fifty  cents  for  every  animal  slaughtered. 
Slaughtering  cows  that  are  capable  of  breeding 
is  forbidden  by  law. 

The  exportation  of  cattle  is  mostly  to  British 
Honduras,  although  some  animals  are  sent  to 
the  neighboring  Central  American  republics. 
There  is  an  export  duty  of  two  dollars  per 
head  on  bulls  and  steers,  and  of  sixteen  dollars 
on  cows.  This  is  a  very  wise  regulation,  which 
virtually  forbids  the  sending  out  of  the  coun- 
try of  that  which  is  needed  in  it. 

The  latest  statistics  show  that  about  the 
same  number  of  head  is  exported  from  Puerto 
Cortez  as  from  Truxillo;  from  Amapala  about 
one-fifth  as  many  as  from  either  of  those 
ports,  and  from  the  frontiers  about  six  times 


140  THE   REPUBLIC    OF   HONDURAS. 

as  many  as  from  either  Puerto  Cortez  or  Trux- 
illo. 

The  cattle  in  Honduras  are  branded  as  in  the 
United  States.  The  brands  are  recorded  in  the 
districts  where  the  various  herds  are  kept,  and 
when  an  animal  is  sold,  its  brand  is  indicated 
in  the  bill  of  sale. 

Some  time  since,  the  Honduras  Progress,  in 
an  article  referring  to  the  improvement  of  for- 
age in  certain  parts  of  the  republic,  took  the 
occasion  to  refer  to  the  plant  known  as  esper- 
cet,  which  has  become  the  principal  fodder- 
grass  of  Germany.  It  says : 

As  a  forage-plant  it  richly  merits  consideration,  ^.  .  .  . 
and,  from  the  almost  entire  lack  of  necessity  for  cultivation 
after  its  first  planting  (being  a  perennial),  might  almost  be  re- 
garded as  a  weed. 

Its  growth  is  very  rapid,  even  upon  the  poorest  and  most 
porous  soil,  and  the  great  length  to  which  its  tap-root  pene- 
trates the  ground  precludes  all  necessity  for  other  irrigation 
than  that  caused  by  the  natural  moisture  of  the  land,  leaving 
it  almost  entirely  unaffected  in  the  midst  of  the  most  severe 
drouth. 

It  will  grow  to  a  height  of  from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet 
upon  a  hard,  red  soil  that  will  fairly  resist  the  pick,  but  neces- 
sarily flourishes  best  under  more  favorable  conditions;  while  a 
few  summer  showers  will  make  it  grow  both  high  and  rank, 
frequently  rising  to  the  height  of  a  man's  chin,  growing  so 
dense  as  to  be  very  troublesome  in  mowing — seven  to  eight 
tons  an  acre  being  no  unusual  yield. 

'For  the  first  year  it  produces  no  seed ;  but  after  that  the 
seed  forms  in  large  pods,  and  in  great  quantities. 


LIVE   STOCK,    POULTRY,    ETC.  141 

It  succeeds  best  upon  a  dry  soil  which  con- 
tains lime. 

It  should  not  be  forgotten  that  hides  are  ex- 
ported in  large  quantities  from  Honduras,  as 
well  as  from  other  Central  American  countries. 
They  are  also  employed  for  a  great  many  pur- 
poses by  the  natives.  The  poorer  classes  use 
them  in  many  ways,  often  making  their  beds 
upon  them. 

There  are  very  few  sheep  in  the  country.  A 
single  flock  of  perhaps  thirty,  in  the  depart- 
ment of  Comayagua,  was  all  that  I  saw  in  over 
a  year  in  the  country.  An  attempt  to  raise 
sheep  would  involve  the  providing  of  shelter 
against  the  hard  rains. 

Goats  I  saw  frequently  in  the  mountain  dis- 
tricts. 

Hogs  are  kept  by  almost  every  family  out- 
side of  the  larger  cities.  Without  any  partic- 
ular attention  being  paid  them,  they  thrive,  and 
in  due  time  are  turned  into  excellent  pork- 
chops,  sausage,  and  manteca,  or  lard.  The 
lard,  it  must  be  confessed,  is  extremely  ex- 
pensive. It  is  used  for  cooking  purposes  of 
every  sort,  for  it  must  be  remembered  there  is 
no  butter  to  be  had,  except  that  which  is  im- 
ported in  cans  and  costs  a  great  deal.  There 


142  THE  REPUBLIC  OF  HONDURAS. 

is  no  reason,  I  may  remark,  why  butter,  such 
as  that  which  is  made  in  Costa  Rica,  should  not 
be  produced  in  Honduras,  when  the  cattle  and 
the  dairy  products  shall  have  been  improved  in 
certain  ways. 

I  do  not  see  why  raising  hogs  should  not 
prove  immensely  profitable.  Corn,  that  which 
needs  but  to  be  planted,  or  yams,  would  be  the 
finest  feed  imaginable. 

Poultry -raising  on  a  somewhat  larger  scale 
than  is  yet  known  in  the  country  would  also 
pay.  Chickens,  turkeys,  ducks,  and  geese  sell 
at  good  prices;  eggs  sometimes  are  depressingly 
scarce  and  high.  I  should  recommend  the 
importing  of  good  incubators  and  the  building 
of  fine  henneries. 


VII. 

THE  PITA. 

The  best  kind  of  fibre  plants,  we  are  assured 
on  good  authority,  are  the  Musa  textilis,  Boeh- 
meria  nivea  and  B.  tenacissima,  Agave  sisal- 
ana,  Fourcroya  gigantea,  Sanseviera  zeylan- 
ica,  Karatas  plumieri,  Ananassa  nativa,  and 
Bromelia  pinguin — in  plainer  language,  the 
Manila  hemp,  China  ramie,  sisal  hemp,  bow- 


THE  PITA.  143 

string  hemp,  pita  hemp,  silk  grass,  and  pin- 
guin  fibre.  The  pita  is  commonly  known  as 
the  Agave  Americana,  or  American  aloe.  It 
belongs,  according  to  best  authorities,  to  the 
ananas  family.  It  may  be  raised  from  seed; 
the  ordinary  practice,  however,  is  to  plant 
suckers,  which  are  obtained  by  dividing  the 
root-stock  and  by  taking  viviparous  buds. 

The  pita  has  never  been  cultivated  in  Hon- 
duras, but  it  grows  wild  on  both  lowlands  and 
on  mountain  slopes  to  an  altitude  of  four  thou- 
sand feet.  When  it  once  has  taken  possession 
of  a  region,  this  plant  begins  rapidly  to  monop- 
olize the  soil,  to  the  exclusion  of  all  other  veg- 
etation except  trees.  Each  plant  has  thirty  to 
forty  huge  leaves  which  measure  six  to  ten 
feet  in  length  and  are  two  or  three  inches  thick. 
The  fibre  extends  in  filaments  the  entire  length 
of  the  leaf.  The  outer  covering  is  extremely 
hard  to  remove.  The  Indians  usually  pound 
the  leaf  on  a  stone,  drying  it  afterward  in  the 
sun  and  pounding  it  a  second  time,  after  which 
they  comb  it  to  obtain  a  clean  fibre.  The 
Caribs,  on  the  other  hand,  soak  the  leaves  in 
water  until  the  covering  is  sufficiently  decom- 
posed to  be  easily  removed. 

A  great  deal  has  been  thought  and  said  on 


144     >        THE  EEPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

the  subject  of  machinery  to  properly  perform 
this  work  of  extracting  the  fibre.  Until  quite 
recently,  no  one  had  succeeded  in  inventing  a 
wholly  successful  method.  I  believe,  however, 
that  during  the  year  1888  accounts  were  pub- 
lished of  a  machine  that  could  do  what  was 
required,  and  that  was  soon  to  be  placed  on  a 
Nicaragua  plantation.  Until  such  machines 
can  be  introduced  in  Honduras,  the  pita  will 
remain  a  wasted  wealth.  It  is  true  that  the 
hand-prepared  fibre  is  already  much  used  for 
shoemaker's  thread,  nets,  cordage,  hammocks, 
and  so  forth.  It  can  be  bought  of  the  Indians, 
out  in  the  country,  in  packages,  at  thirty  cents 
per  pound.  In  the  towns  it  is  sold  to  shoe- 
makers and  others  at  eighty  cents  per  pound. 
The  native  method  of  hand  preparation  is,  of 
course,  too  costly,  and  the  quantities  are  too 
small  to  admit  of  exportation.  On  the  other 
hand,  suitable  machinery  could  prepare  an- 
nually thousands  of  tons  of  fibre,  which  might 
prove  of  immense  benefit  to  the  commerce  of 
the  country. 

The  best  plan  for  propagation  is  to  set  the 
young  plants  in  regular  rows,  and  to  keep  the 
intervening  spaces  clear  for  the  first  six 
months;  at  the  end  of  that  time  the  plants 


THE  PITA.  145 

can  take  care  of  themselves.  They  should 
attain  full  growth  in  about  six  years  time.  A 
single  pita  plant  in  bloom,  with  its  long,  slen- 
der blossom-stem  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high,  is 
a  beautiful  sight.  Fields  containing  thousands 
of  such  would  be  well  worth  gazing  at.  About 
one  thousand  plants  may  be  grown  to  an  acre, 
the  yield  from  which  should  be  at  least  six 
thousand  pounds.  The  plantation  ought  to 
last  for  ten  or  twelve  years. 

Mr.  Thomas  R.  Lombard  says  of  the  pita 
that  it  seems  to  yield  a  finer  fibre  than  the  cor- 
responding plant  in  Mexico,  the  maguey.  This 
latter  is  the  plant  from  which  the  great  native 
drink,  the  Mexican  pulque,  is  obtained.  The 
natives  have  their  peculiar  method  of  extract- 
ing the  juice,  by  sucking  it  up  into  a  hollow 
stalk  which  they  have  inserted  in  a  cut  made 
in  the  stem  of  the  plant,  and  letting  it  run  out 
of  the  stalk  again  into  a  gourd.  They  let  the 
juice  stand  one  week  to  make  pulque;  if  it 
stands  two  weeks,  it  becomes  mescal,  which  is 
much  stronger.  The  pulque  is  prescribed  by 
many  physicians  as  a  daily  health-drink,  to  be 
taken  at  noon  only. 

In  Yucatan  the  Agave  sisalana,  or  henequin, 

has  been  grown  and  exported  for  some  time 
10 


146  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

with  remarkable  success;  indeed,  we  hear  of 
vast  fortunes  being  made  by  men  engaged  in 
this  industry.  The  finer  parts  of  the  sisal 
hemp  can  be  advantageously  woven  with  jute, 
linen,  or  even  cotton.  It  bleaches  and  takes 
dye  perfectly,  and  without  loss  of  strength. 
The  natives  of  Yucatan  use  the  hemp  chiefly 
to  make  nets,  mats,  and  hammocks.  In  1888 
the  number  of  henequin  hammocks  exported 
from  Yucatan  to  the  United  States  was  about 
forty  thousand. 
Mr.  Lombard  says  further  of  the  pita: 

The  crude  fibre  is  equal  in  value  to  manila  hemp,  when 
applied  to  light  uses;  but  in  fineness,  strength,  and  durability 
it  is  fur  superior.  The  ultimate  fibre  is  even  finer  than  that  of 
the  threads  of  silk  spun  by  the  silk-worm.  The  writer  was 
shown  the  two  under  a  powerful  microscope  at  Lyons,  France, 
and  heard  many  exclamations  of  surprise  on  the  part  of  manu- 
facturers at  this  unexpected  result,  and  at  the  fact  that  the 
pita  fibre  did  not  lose  its  strength  when  reduced  to  the  fine 
floss  state.  Experiments  have  been  made  of  weaving  this  fibre 
when  flossed  with  cotton,  wool,  or  silk;  and  it  has  been  found 

that  this  can  be  done  advantageously As  the  pita 

fibre  possesses  a  silky  gloss  of  its  own,  it  has  been  thought 
by  manufacturers  that  it  would  be  found  valuable  to  mix  with 
silk,  especially  in  the  manufacture  of  heavy  curtain  fabrics, 
where  weight,  strength,  durability,  and  finish  are  required. 

Samples  of  the  pita  fibre  have  been  sent  to 
Europe,  and  there  converted  into  ribbons, 
handkerchiefs,  wigs,  and  false  hair.  All  per- 
sons who  have  made  any  thorough  examina- 


THE  PITA.  147 

tion  of  the  subject,  declare  that  a  tremendous 
factor  of  commercial  prosperity  is  as  yet  lying 
idle  in  Honduras,  which,  if  properly  handled 
with  sufficient  capital  and  the  required  machin- 
ery, might  yield  vast  returns  to  those  under- 
taking the  enterprise,  and  to  the  nation  itself 
as  well. 


PART  IV. 

HAMMOCK   AND   SADDLE. 


I. 

THE   FIRST   DAY  OUT. 

It  was  on  a  Sunday  morning  in  October 
that  I  set  out  to  ride  alone — except  for  a  mozo 
—from  Tegucigalpa  down  to  San  Pedro  Sula, 
there  to  take  the  train  for  Puerto  Cortez,  and 
thence  the  steamer  for  New  Orleans.  The  day 
previous  I  had  engaged  one  Trinidad  Cisneros, 
an  interesting  type,  originally  from  Salvador, 
to  guide  me  safely  to  the  coast.  This  gentle- 
man was  going  down  with  a  couple  of  pack- 
mules  to  meet  some  incoming  freight,  and  he 
was  glad  to  "kill  two  birds  with  a  single 
throw."  On  Saturday  he  had  assured  me  posi- 
tively that  he  would  be  on  hand  at  five  in  the 
morning,  so  that  we  might  have  an  early  start. 
I  knew  so  much  about  the  slowness  of  the 
average  mozo  that  I  was  not  surprised  at  hav- 
ing to  wait  until  nearly  eight  o'clock  fdr  him 
to  appear.  When  at  last  he  arrived,  I  saw,  to 
my  amazement,  that  he  had  brought  but  one 
mule  and  a  burro  of  under-size. 

(149) 


150  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

"Pray,  Mr.  Cisneros,"  I  observed,  " do  you 
intend  me  to  ride  the  burro  ?  Or  are  my  trunks 
to  be  left  behind?"  He  at  once  explained 
that  the  burro  could  carry  the  trunks  as  far  as 
Comayagua,  where  he  would  be  replaced  by  a 
proper  cargo-mule,  fresh  from  the  potrero. 
I  was  naturally  annoyed  at  such  a  beginning 
of  the  trip.  My  luggage  was  purposely  light, 
so  that  it  might  keep  up  with  me — an  easy 
matter,  if  it  were  loaded  on  a  good  animal. 
But  as  things  now  stood,  I  should  have  to  ride 
slowly  in  order  to  wait  for  the  burro.  Another 
thing,  the  dignity  of  my  departure  from  the 
capital  was  marred,  if  not  ruined.  I  had 
counted  upon  a  very  early  start,  unaccom- 
panied by  friends  to  see  me  off,  as  is  usual  in 
Honduras;  and  instead,  I  must  parade  through 
town  with  a  ridiculous  burro  wagging  his  ears 
between  my  steamer  trunks,  just  at  the  time 
when  the  streets  would  be  full  of  people  going 
to  mass. 

In  the  midst  of  my  annoyance,  up  rode 
Don  Joaquin  Escobar,  the  Postmaster- General, 
mounted  on  his  splendid  white  horse,  Napo- 
leon. "  I  am  going  out  on  the  road  with  you," 
he  said,  "as  far  as  I  can  go  and  get  back  in 
time  for  some  business  that  must  be  attended 


THE  FIRST  DAY  OUT.  151 

to."  It  was  " foreign  mail  day,"  and  there- 
fore I  thought  it  remarkably  good  of  the  gen- 
tleman. 

We  started  off  in  gay  spirits,  leaving  Trini- 
dad to  follow  with  burro  and  luggage.  Don 
Joaquin  knew  the  way,  of  course,  and  we  were 
not  long  crossing  the  long  bridge,  passing 
down  through  Comayguela,  and  making  head- 
way at  full  gallop  out  along  the  yellow  road 
leading  off  toward  Comayagua. 

When  Don  Joaquin  had  gone  as  far  as  he 
possibly  could,  and  return  in  time,  we  stopped 
and  waited  for  guide  and  luggage  to  come  up. 
My  friend  gave  the  mozo  some  sound  advice  as 
to  the  rubber  coats,  keeping  the  equipage  dry, 
and  taking  good  care  of  me  in  general  and  par- 
ticular. 

We  parted  each  other  on  the  shoulder,  Hon- 
duranean  fashion,  and  said  "Adios."  Don 
Joaquin' s  splendid  horse  disappeared  at  a  gal- 
lop in  the  distance,  and  I  continued  on  my 
hundred-league  journey. 

Prom  Tegucigalpa  to  Comayagua  is  reckoned 
twenty  leagues,  or  sixty  miles.  I  hoped  to 
make  this  distance  by  noon  of  the  following 
day.  In  the  meantime,  the  burro  might  prove 
a  serious  obstacle.  As  the  sun  rose— the  tre- 


152  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

mendous  tropical  sun,  overpowering  in  those 
circular  hollows  where  the  wind  can  not  rush, 
as  it  rushes  elsewhere  through  the  long  passes, 
like  some  demon  lately  unchained — we  pro- 
gressed at  moderate  speed.  I  rode  ahead,  for 
the  path  was  still  a  cart-road;  it  had  not  yet 
dwindled  to  a  trail,  as  it  should  farther  on.  The 
burro  ran  on  gaily  just  behind;  the  trunks  he 
bore  creaked  slightly  in  their  cording.  The 
mozo  plodded  airily  after — afoot.  As  a  rule, 
the  Honduras  mozos  prefer  to  travel  afoot. 
This  one  \vore  the  usual  comfortable  costume 
of  white  trousers  and  white  jacket,  white  pita 
hat,  and  sandals  of  hide  fastened  with  cords 
over  the  feet,  between  the  toes  and  around  the 
ankles.  He  carried  a  good  pistol,  a  machete, 
and  a  gourd  to  drink  from.  His  name  was 
"  Trinity;"  he  was  obliging,  honest,  and  given 
to  grandiloquent  speeches. 

Having  formed  this  estimate  of  the  individ- 
ual who  was  to  be  my  sole  human  companion 
during  some  six  or  seven  days  communion 
with  Nature,  I  dismissed  him  .from  my 
thoughts.  The  memory  of  Tegucigalpa, 
quaint  and  quiet  city,  was  fresh  in  my  mind. 
Fourteen  months  experience  in  the  tropics 
absorbed  me.  The  roar  of  a  thirty-stamp  mill 


THE   FIRST   DAY   OUT.  153 

in  a  mining  town  whence  I  had  lately  come 
rang  in  my  ears.  Voices  of  people  from  whom 
I  had  lately  parted  returned  as  in  a  dream; 
faces  rose  up  before  me  that  perhaps  I  might 
not  see  again.  I  had,  for  an  instant,  the  help- 
less feeling  of  being  out  adrift  on  some  strange 
sea;  then  the  sensation  of  one  who  has  barely 
learned  to  swim,  when  someone  pushes  him 
into  the  water.  The  cheerful  voice  of  Trinidad 
recalled  me: 

' '  There  is  a  house  not  far  away,  where  we 
can  get  some  breakfast." 

"Breakfast!"  I  had  forgotten  about  that 
important  meal.  ' '  How  far  off  is  it  ? " 

u  About  two  leagues." 

"  Hombre  !  Two  leagues  are  six  miles.  That 
is  not  near." 

"  Pues,  hombre.    They  are  little  leagues." 

And  I  am  quite  sure  we  rode  ten  miles  before 
the  place  was  reached.  The  Honduras  mozos 
have  no  idea  of  distance.  The  "  long  leagues  " 
and  the  "short  leagues"  are  matters  of  con- 
jecture. 

To  travel  with  comfort  in  Honduras  you 
must  be  suitably  dressed,  have  a  good  animal, 
and  know  how  to  ride.  For  the  first  of  the 
three  conditions,  corduroy  makes  a  good  cos- 


154  THE  REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

tume;  it  is  not  too  heavy  except  in  the  middle 
of  the  day,  when  one  should  not  ride,  but  rest. 
A  broad-brimmed  hat  is  indispensable.  For- 
eigners usually  prefer  the  helmet,  t\vo-peaked. 
The  natives  often  ride  carrying  open  umbrellas, 
which,  though  incongruous,  is  not  always  ill- 
advised.  As  to  securing  a  good  beast,  that  is 
not  usually  so  easy.  A  mule  with  reasonable 
speed  is  safer  than  a  horse,  and  endures  more. 
And  in  the  matter  of  horsemanship,  some  peo- 
ple are  born  riders,  while  others  never  acquire 
the  first  principles  of  equestrianism.  Practice, 
of  course,  is  important. 

There  is  a  certain  little  insect — which  also 
grows  to  be  a  larger  insect — against  which  the 
traveler  must  guard.  Certain  bushes  and 
plants  are  covered  with  thousands  of  these 
pests,  one  of  which,  if  he  get  upon  you,  will 
make  you  most  uncomfortable.  The  name  of 
the  insect  is  garrapata — it  is  of  the  tick  species. 
The  smaller  sized  is  more  to  be  dreaded  than 
the  larger,  as  it  is  almost  imperceptible.  It 
has  the  habit  of  burying  its  head  in  the  flesh 
and  leaving  a  part  of  it  there,  making  a  very 
painful  and  lasting  sore  place.  In  riding  along 
the  narrow  trails  where  plants  and  bushes  rise 
on  either  side,  one  should  be  careful  not  to  get 


THE  FIRST   DAY   OUT.  155 

covered  with  garrapatas.  The  fleas  of  the 
tropics  torment  many  persons  from  the  North 
extremely  at  first.  Cleanliness  and  attention 
will  keep  one's  house  free  from  this  annoyance, 
unless  it  happen  to  be  built  upon  peculiarly 
sandy  soil.  On  the  coasts,  where  the  earth  is 
black  and  moist,  there  are  no  fleas,  I  believe. 
On  the  other  hand,  no  one  ever  thinks  of  mos- 
quito-netting, in  the  mountains,  for  there  are  no 
mosquitoes,  while  at  Truxillo  there  are  plenty, 
and  at  Puerto  Cortez  a  few.  At  San  Pedro 
Sula  there  are  sand-flies  which  revel  from  noon 
to  dusk. 

My  intention,  previous  to  the  advent  of  the 
burro,  had  been  to  reach  the  place  called  Pro- 
teccion,  which  is  something  like  half-way  be- 
tween Tegucigalpa  and  Comayagua,  that  after- 
noon, and  to  stay  there  all  night.  But  now, 
what  with  the  late  start  and  poor  animals,  I 
foresaw  this  to  be  impossible.  It  was  provok- 
ing at  first,  but  on  reflection,  and  knowing  I 
had  abundant  time  to  catch  the  steamer  if  I 
took  ten  or  twelve  days  in  going  down,  it 
seemed  to  me  I  might  as  well  proceed  leisurely, 
and  learn  the  country  all  the  better. 

The  house  that  Trinidad  had  in  mind  sud- 
denly came  in  sight.  We  rode  up — I  did,  at 


156  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

least— and  Trinidad  steered  the  burro  into  the 
shade  of  the  projecting  thatched  roof.  When 
I  say  "  steered,"  I  speak  with  premeditation, 
for  he  often  had  hold  of  the  donkey's  tail.  I 
dismounted,  although  the  woman  of  the  house 
was  at  first  quite  certain  she  had  nothing  to 
sell  us.  This  is  nearly  always  the  way  at  the 
places  where  one  tries  to  get  food  in  such 
countries.  All  the  travelers  who  have  been 
over  the  ground  are  accustomed  to  it,  and  they 
will  all  relate  the  identical  experience  of  "no 
hay."  As  a  rule,  they  conclude  thus  :  "  Well, 
I  wTas  determined  to  have  something.  I  saw  a 
chicken  running  about.  I  knocked  it  over 
with  a  stone,  wrung  its  neck,  and  took  it  to 
the  woman.  'Now,'  says  1^  'cook  me  this, 
and  I'll  pay  you  whatever  it's  worth!"  I 
never  met  a  Honduras-traveled  individual  yet 
who  had  not  this  tale  to  tell.  Somehow  it  has 
always  seemed  strange  to  me  that  the  unfortu- 
nate chicken  has  never  been  missed  by  the 
stone  !  I,  for  my  part,  saw  chickens,  it  is  true; 
but  I  aimed  no  stones  at  them.  Had  I  tried 
to  do  so,  I  should  most  likely  have  hit  the 
woman  herself  in  the  eye,  for  I  throw  very 
poorly  at  times.  But  I  talked,  and  Trinidad 
talked;  and  between  us  we  softened  the  old 


THE   FIRST   DAY   OUT.  157 

lady,  who  was  fat  and  bare- shouldered,  with  a 
gorgeous  necklace  of  gilt  beads,  into  providing 
us  with  a  tripe-stew — which  she  lamentingly 
protested  had  been  prepared  for  her  mother-in- 
law — and  some  tortillas  and  milkless  coffee.  I 
had  put  some  French  bread  and  a  can  of  potted 
ham  in  the  saddle-bags,  along  with  a  flask  of 
brandy,  before  leaving  Tegucigalpa.  I  now 
found,  on  investigation,  that  the  ham,  which  I 
had  opened  in  order  to  make  sure  of  its  con- 
dition, had  been  associating  rather  intimately 
with  my  note-book,  somewhat  to  the  latter' s 
detriment. 

After  correcting  this  unforeseen  condition  as 
far  as  was  possible,  I  remounted,  having  first 
paid  the  moderate  sum  of  one  real  (twelve  and 
one-half  cents)  for  our  entertainment,  and  sig- 
nified my  desire  to  be  off.  Trinidad  lingered, 
conversing  amicably  with  the  hostess.  Fi- 
nally I  got  him  away.  When  we  were  in  the 
road  once  more,  I  asked  Avhere  he  thought  we 
might  stop  that  night. 

"Tamara,"  he  smilingly  assured  me;  and 
on  we  went  toward  Tamara.  It  was  a  lovely, 
though  uninhabited,  stretch  of  country  that  I 
never  shall  forget.  I  rode  very  slowly.  Trin- 
idad walked  alongside,  and  the  burro  jolted 


158  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

on  in  advance.  I  saw  that  there  could  be  no 
haste  until  we  reached  Comayagua,  and  Trini- 
dad was  very  entertaining  with  his  grandilo- 
quent speeches  and  flowery  metaphor.  He  had 
a  passion  for  making  diminutives  of  his  nouns, 
ending  them  all  in  itos  or  itas.  He  also  took 
a  bland  delight  in  picturing  to  me  the  gra- 
cious reception  accorded  him  by  the  Sefior 
Presidente,  upon  whom  he  had  called  in  Tegu- 
cigalpa. I  judged  that  he  was  not  lying,  for 
President  Bogran  receives  the  humblest  callers 
with  the  greatest  kindness. 


II. 

NIGHT  IN   A   HAMMOCK. 

Afternoon,  a  little  past  four,  it  was  when  we 
reached  Tamara.  A  few  little  houses  were 
scattered  over  splendid  lields.  We  paused  to 
look  for  a  posada.  They  told  us  to  go  on  about 
a  league  and  a  half.  I  took  a  drink  of  water 
and  proceeded.  The  league  and  a  half  resolved 
itself  into  about  three  leagues.  It  was  nearly 
dark,  and  I  was  woefully  hungry  and  tired, 
when  we  saw  a  house  somewhat  up  a  hill-side. 
There  were  women  and  children  visible,  some 


NIGHT  IN   A   HAMMOCK.  159 

animals  grazing  calmly,  and  a  clothes-line 
hung  with  sausage  casings. 

"Aqui  hay  posada?"  inquired  Trinidad, 
cheerfully. 

"Como  no  !"  said  one  of  the  women.  And 
mighty  glad  I  was  to  hear  it. 

The  animals  were  speedily  unloaded;  my 
hammock  came  out  of  the  maleta  and  was 
swung  in-doors. 

Heavens,  what  a  place!  There  were  three 
beds  and  another  hammock  besides  my  own. 
In  one  of  the  beds  there  was  a  young  man 
ill  with  fever.  When  I  saw,  however,  that  his 
mother  was  feeding  him  with  corn  baked  on 
the  cob,  I  concluded  the  illness  to  be  less  seri- 
ous than  I  had  at  first  imagined.  I  stayed  out- 
side as  much  as  possible.  Trinidad  requested 
that  coffee  and  tortillas  be  prepared.  How 
good  these  tasted,  we  being  so  hungry!  There 
were  also  some  savory  chunks  of  pork,  which 
seemed  to  have  been  roasted  on  the  ashes. 
Having  eaten  and  drunk,  I  walked  up  and 
down  outside  until  it  was  quite  dark  and  a 
slight  rain  fell.  Then  I  went  inside  and 
crawled  into  my  hammock.  Trinidad  reposed 
on  a  small  blanker,  which  he  had  carried  strap- 
ped with  my  luggage  upon  the  unfortunate 

j^\^  B 

OF  \ 

f  yWIVERSITY  ) 
J 


160  THE   REPUBLIC    OF    HONDtTRAS. 

burro,  spread  upon  the  earth  floor.  He  smoked 
cigarettes,  for  which  I  was  thankful,  and  fought 
what  he  called  the  pulguitas,  audibly  and  with- 
out cessation. 

"  They  bring  them  in  the  clothes  from  Tegu- 
cigalpa," remarked  the  sick  man,  consolingly, 
from  his  bed. 

Trinidad  went  on  smoking.  He  turned  un- 
easily now  and  then,  and  groaned  at  times,  for 
the  ground  was  not  soft.  But  for  the  rain,  we 
might  better  have  stretched  ourselves  on  the 
grass  outside. 

"Trinidad,"  I  said,  when  the  others  were  all 
asleep,  as  could  be  told  from  their  breathing, 
"  we  go  on  at  four  o'clock." 

uPues,  hombre,"  he  returned,  "it  will  not 
be  daylight." 

"No  matter,"  1  insisted,  "we  go  on  all  the 
same." 

I  dozed  a  little  then,  and  I  suppose  he  did 
the  same.  The  next  thing  I  knew,  daylight 
was  shining  through  the  cracks  of  the  door. 
The  mozo  was  up  and  making  his  preparations 
to  go.  We  paid  a  real  and  a  medio  (eighteen 
cents)  for  the  supper,  and  were  off  again.  The 
animals  had  been  fed,  but  I  do  not  remember 
what  that  cost.  My  arrangement  was  to  pay 


NIGHT   IN   A    HAMMOCK.  161 

the  mozo  a  certain  sum  and  provide  his  food 
going  down.  The  animals  grazed  at  night,  and 
whatever  else  he  fed  them  he  paid  for.  We 
did  not  wait  for  coffee,  but  took  this  a  league 
further  on,  at  a  newly  built,  clean,  but  lone- 
some house,  where  they  gave  us  also  tortillas 
and  eggs,  all  for  another  real. 

The  road  now  led  us  up  and  down  wind- 
ing courses,  through  rivers  sometimes  shallow, 
sometimes  of  serious  depth,  always  crystal 
clear,  and  alluring  one  to  pause  under  the 
splendid  shade  of  the  surrounding  trees.  Once 
Trinidad,  after  dipping  me  up  a  gourdf ul  of 
the  shining  liquid,  calmly  assured  me  that  he 
was  going  to  stop  and  bathe — would  I  kindly 
look  after  the  burro  ?  I  rode  ahead,  and  kept 
an  eye  on  the  patient  little  beast  struggling 
along  under  its  heavy  load,  and  found  a  shady 
spot,  where  we  rested  until  the  mozo  caught  up 
with  us,  clean  and  cool  from  plunging  in  the 
river. 

By  noon  we  were  at  Proteccion,  and  there 
found  a  capital  place  to  get  breakfast.  It  was 
three  reals  (thirty-eight  cents)  for  myself  and 
the  mozo,  and  there  were  several  courses,  which 
we  ate  from  a  single  plate,  mostly  with  our 

fingers,  aided  by  the  tortillas  and  a  spoon  out 
11 


162      THE  KEPUBLIC  OF  HONDURAS. 

of  my  saddle-bags.  We  ate  sitting  on  a  couple 
of  boards  resting  on  kegs — goodness  knows 
where  these  came  from  originally;  and  there 
were  others  breakfasting  in  the  same  fashion- 
natives  who  seemed  to  be  traveling  also,  for 
their  horses  waited  outside. 

But  for  the  fact  of  the  burro  again,  we  might 
easily  have  made  Comayagua  by  night- fall.  As 
it  was,  we  could  only  hope  to  reach  Las  Flores. 

It  was  warm  riding,  but  the  views  were 
splendid  all  that  afternoon.  Now  glorious 
valleys,  now  towering  hills;  multitudes  of  tiny 
streams  to  cross,  numberless  rocky  ascents  to 
climb;  stillness  and  heat  about  one;  sun  blaz- 
ing overhead;  the  myriad  birds  quiet,  hidden 
in  the  depths  of  the  mountain  forests.  Five 
leagues — about  fifteen  miles — from  Proteccion 
to  Las  Flores!  Night  came  on,  and  we  were 
still  far  from  sign  of  human  habitation.  "It 
is  not  long,"  said  Trinidad,  composedly,  as 
we  began  to  see  the  new  moon  glittering 
faintly  in  the  sky.  We  were  not  so  far  off,  I 
agreed,  for  the  ground  was  level,  and  seemed  a 
neighborhood  likely  to  have  a  settlement.  The 
path  that  the  mozo  chose,  however,  led  us 
astray.  The  first  I  knew  we  were  riding  aim- 
lessly through  fields  of  something  that  grew 


NIGHT   IN   A   HAMMOCK.  163 

very  tall  and  rattled  about  one.  The  burro 
began  to  wander  hither  and  thither.  Finally 
Trinidad  came  to  a  stop,  and  spoke,  rather 
plaintively : 

"Pues,  hombre,  I  think  we  are  lost.  I  don't 
know  this  way." 

"Pues,  hombre,"  I  remarked,  "  you  are  a  fine 
guide,  to  get  us  lost  at  this  hour  of  the  night !  " 

We  paused  there,  adrift,  as  it  were,  on  a 
strange  sea.  The  moon  was  covered  with  float- 
ing masses  of  cloud.  Stars,  too,  were  visible 
in  the  sky  above.  In  the  distance  we  heard 
the  barking  of  dogs.  I  told  the  mozo  we  must 
steer  for  that  barking;  and  we  did  so.  But  it 
was  no  easy  task,  for  the  tired  burro  with 
his  tremendous  luggage  was  not  especially 
manageable,  though  Trinidad  exhorted  him 
piously  and  without  pause. 

"Burro!  Anda!"  and  various  other  inter- 
jections, not  precisely  profane,  but  verging  on 
it.  Back  and  forth,  here  and  there,  to  and  fro 
we  wandered  for  what  seemed  hours.  About 
nine  o'clock  we  felt  ourselves  saved  by  the 
faintly  glimmering  light  that  shone  in  the  dis- 
tance. 

4 'Now  I  know,"  said  Trinidad,  joyously. 
"  I  can  tell  the  way." 


164  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

.     "So  could  any  fool,"  I  muttered,  savagely. 

The  old  lady  of  this  dwelling  was  a  certain 
Nina  Paula.  There  were  three  rooms  in  the 
house.  The  posada  part  was  a  large,  bare 
apartment,  with  a  couple  of  hammocks  and  a 
long  table  of  rough  boards;  absolutely  no  other 
furniture. 

"  Coffee  and  tortillas  for  two,"  I  observed, 
dramatically;  and  they  were  at  once  forthcom- 
ing. I  slept  with  comfort  in  one  of  the  ham- 
mocks, and  Trinidad  occupied  the  other.  It 
was  cold,  but  clean.  We  made  another  late 
start  in  the  morning,  and  passed  through  San 
Antonio  al  Norte  about  nine  o'clock,  reaching 
Comayagua  at  noon,  and  proceeding  at  once 
to  the  Hotel  Americano. 

Sixty  miles  of  the  three  hundred  had  been 
achieved  without  anything  remarkable  hav- 
ing occurred — no  wild  beasts,  no  narrow 
escapes  from  robbers,  absolutely  nothing  to 
make  a  fuss  about. 


III. 

COMAYAGUA. 

The  old  capital  is  a  sleepy  town.  There  is 
never  a  sound  but  the  church-bells  all  day 
long;  quieter  than  Tegucigalpa,  which  is  quiet 


COMAYAGUA.  165 

enough  for  anyone.  It  was  with  an  inexpress- 
ible sense  of  relief  that  I  got  down  from  my 
mule  in  the  patio  of  the  American  Hotel;  for  I 
knew  that  the  burro  would!  now  be  returned  to 
his  native  potrero,  and  a  couple  of  fresh  beasts 
replace  him  and  the  jaded  animal  1  had  ridden 
thus  far.  The  smiling  native  proprietor  —  a 
woman — of  the  house  welcomed  us  pleasantly. 
The  luggage  was  carried  into  a  large  corner 
room,  where  there  was  a  hammock  and  a  bed- 
stead. There  were  a  couple  of  great  shutter- 
windows  in  the  sides  of  the  room,  which,  with 
three  large  doors,  two  of  which  opened  upon 
the  street,  precluded  the  idea  of  privacy.  I 
let  the  mozo  take  care  of  himself,  and  ordered 
breakfast.  It  was  prepared  leisurely,  and  set 
forth  on  a  table  in  the  patio  corridor  or  porch. 
There  were  eggs,  rice,  boiled  meat,  chicken,  tor- 
tillas, bread,  frijoles,  all  well  cooked  and  appe- 
tizing. There  were  also  cheese,  citron  pre- 
serves,  and  coffee,  with  plenty  of  milk.  After 
this  satisfactory  meal,  I  asked  that  the  bed  be 
arranged  for  me,  and  inquired  as  to  bathing 
facilities.  The  good  lady  directed  me  to  the 
nearest  river,  which  was  not  far,  and  even  of- 
fered to  send  a  servant  to  show  the  way.  I  did 
not  wish  to  go  at  once,  however.  I  took  a  rest 


166  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

in  the  hammock  while  the  bed  was  made  up  by 
the  easy  process  of  spreading  a  single  blanket 
over  the  smooth  board  bottom  and  laying  a 
small  pillow  at  the  head.  I  watched  these 
preparations  lazily  from  the  hammock,  and 
wondered  if  she  thought  I  was  going  to  sleep 
on  the  blanket  or  under  it ;  there  would  not  be 
much  choice  for  softness.  About  two  o'clock 
I  asked  the  servant  to  show  me  the  way  to  the 
river.  Gracious  powers  !  or  the  Spanish  equiva- 
lent, was  I  going  to  bathe  at  that  hour !  I  would 
certainl y  have  fever.  ' '  Nonsense  !  "  I  returned, 
and  started  out,  followed  by  various  entreaties 
from  the  entire  household  to  reconsider.  The 
sun  was  blazing  hot,  but  the  stream  was  deli- 
ciously  clear  and  just  of  the  nicest  depth.  I 
came  back  wonderfully  refreshed,  and  found 
an  American  gentleman  then  residing  in  the 
city  waiting  to  see  me. 

He  kindly  volunteered  to  show  me  about. 

"  Why  don't  you  stay  over  another  day,"  he 
asked,  ' '  and  get  rested  ? ' ' 

" Do  you  really  think,"  I  asked,  "that  one 
is  apt  to  get  very  rested  on  a  bed  like  tJiat?" 

He  prodded  it  with  his  finger,  and  laughed. 

"Hello!"  he  said;  u  it  isn't    even  a  canvas 
bottom/' 


COMAYAGUA.  167 

"  Well,  what  is  there  to  see  in  the  town?"  I 
asked. 

"  Not  much  beside  the  cathedral.  Stay  over, 
and  I  will  show  you  all  there  is  to-morrow." 

I  thanked  him  and  decided  to  do  so,  and  to 
send  the  mozo  ahead  with  the  luggage-mule  as 
far  as  the  next  stop,  which  would  be  Cuevas. 

Trinidad  accordingly  started  off  early  next 
morning,  having  brought  the  two  fresh  animals 
up  for  my  inspection  late  in  the  afternoon. 
They  looked  pretty  well;  but  one  never  can  tell 
from  the  look  of  a  mule,  of  course. 

"O,  well,"  I  said,  "  after  a  year  in  Honduras, 
one  ought  to  be  able  to  ride  a  zebra.  Leave  me 
the  best  saddle-beast,  and  get  you  gone  at  day- 
light." 

I  meant  to  have  a  delightful  time  all  to  my- 
self as  far  as  Cuevas. 

The  next  day  the  American  gentleman  came 
around  and  took  me  to  the  cathedral,  where  we 
were  shown  first  all  the  right  royal  vestments 
of  the  bishop.  These  were  of  the  richest  white 
silk,  some  of  them  wrought  with  pure  gold  and 
silver  threads;  others  were  embroidered  with 
flowers.  All  were  very  heavy  and  precious,  and 
kept  most  carefully  in  massive  chests  and  ward- 
robes of  cedar.  When  we  had  taken  an  extended 


168  THE   REPUBLIC    OF    HONDURAS. 

and  artistic  delight  in  these  beautiful  robes,  we 
examined  the  old  paintings  upon  the  walls  of 
the  cathedral,  and  the  images — mostly  old  and 
mummy  suggesting — of  various  saints — chiefly 
,  Saint  Peter — and  lastly,  a  figure  said  to  be  act- 
ually the  mummy  of  a  bishop  of  years  agone. 
There  were  also  magnificent  staffs  of  silver  and 
gold,  censers,  and  altar-pieces  of  quaint  old 
designs,  which  the  obliging  sexton  disclosed  to 
us  by  opening  various  other  closets. 

We  spent  an  hour  or  two  in  the  sacred  edi- 
fice, emerging  in  time  to  return  to  the  hotel  for 
breakfast,  after  which  we  took  a  look  at  the 
business  part  of  the  old  town.  "Oh,  what  a 
waking-up  you  will  get  one  of  these  days," 
I  said,  apostrophizing  the  sleepy  site,  "when 
railway  trains  go  whistling  through  the  land ! " 
Of  the  two  places,  Tegucigalpa  is,  to  my  mind, 
much  more  attractive  in  every  way. 

When  the  American  gentleman  heard  that  I 
was  purposing  to  go  on  alone  to  Cuevas  next 
morning,  he  lifted  his  voice  in  horror. 

"  Where  is  your  mozo  ?  "  he  asked. 

"  Gone  ahead  with  the  trunks." 

"But  you  can't  go  alone;  you'll  get  off  the 
track.  There's  a  turn  that  will  take  you  off  to 
Espino,  on  the  Trujillo  road." 


COMAYAGUA.  169 

" Can't  I  take  the  left-hand  road  when  I 
reach  the  fork? " 

"  You  could  if  you  knew  it." 

And  he  worked  upon  my  mind  so  that  I 
finally  sent  out  and  engaged  a  fine-looking, 
tall,  and  sinewy  stripling,  whom  the  professor 
recommended  as  strictly  honest.  I  was  carry- 
ing a  bag  of  jingling  silver  for  road  supplies, 
and  was  unarmed.  Half  the  quantity  of 
"pisto,"  as  they  call  it,  would  have  sufficed, 
had  I  known  how  little  the  posada  expense 
was  to  be.  At  five  o'clock  next  morning 
(Thursday),  the  mozo,  Jesus  Galeano  (Jesus 
pronounced  Haysoose,  and  being  a  very  com- 
mon name),  came  rapping  oh  my  street  door. 

"Bueno,"  I  said,  stretching  myself  sleepily 
in  the  hammock,  between  which  and  the  inflex- 
ible, board-bottom  bed  I  had  alternated  all 
night  long.  But  he  kept  on  rapping  until  I 
rose  and  opened  the  heavy  shutters  at  one  of 
the  windows,  to  prove  myself  really  awake. 
He  went  and  saddled  my  horse  then,  while  I 
dressed  quickly  and  got  my  coffee. 

I  tried  the  new  mule  at  a  brisk  canter  for  a 
few  miles  out  of  town,  leaving  Jesus  to  come 
on  after  me,  knowing  I  could  not  go  wrong,  as 
there  was  but  one  path.  The  mule  was  awful ! 


170  TIIK    KKPrKLIC    OF    IIOXPFRAS. 

He  could  go  pretty  fast,  but  his  gait  was  the 
hardest  I  had  ever  encountered.  When  the 
road  had  narrowed,  as  it  soon  does  after  leav- 
ing Comayagua,  to  a  mere  trail,  I  paused  and 
waited  for  my  new  guide.  Jesus  came  up  very 
promptly;  he  was  one  of  the  swiftest  walkers 
1  had  ever  seen — a  natty  specimen  of  the  peon 
class,  in  his  white  jacket  and  trousers,  little 
round  felt  hat,  luncheon  tied  in  a  clean  hand- 
kerchief, and  machete  hanging  from  his  belt; 
barefooted,  of  course,  with  the  hide  sandals 
usually  worn.  By  noon  we  were  at  Sabana 
Larga,  where  I  bought  some  coffee  and  pan 
dulce,  and  Jesus  ate  the  contents  of  his  hand- 
kerchief. We  had  safely  passed  the  Espino 
road,  and  I  had  half  a  notion  to  dismiss  the? 
boy  and  let  him  return  at  once  to  Comayagua. 
Nevertheless,  as  I  had  engaged  him  for  doce 
reales  (one  dollar  and  fifty  cents),  and  he  would 
probably  grumble  at  less,  I  concluded  he  would 
better  go  on. 

IV. 

ON  TO  YOJOA. 

It  rained  a  little  during  the  afternoon.  I  put 
on  a  rubber  cloak,  and  rode  under  the  trees  as 
much  as  possible.  The  sky  was  cloudy,  but 


GIST  TO   YOJOA.  171 

the  landscape  was  freshly  green  and  glorious 
from  the  rain.  At  five  we  were  at  Cuevas. 
Trinidad  came  out  of  almost  the  first  little 
house  we  arrived  at,  and  stood  smiling. 

"Pues,  hombre,"  he  observed,  pleasantly; 
"that's  a  good  mule,  isn't  it  ?  " 

I  asked  him,  as  sternly  as  I  could,  how  he 
came  to  give  me  the  wrong  animal. 

"The  other  must  be  better,"  I  insisted. 
"I'll  try  it  to-morrow,  anyway." 

The  little  house  proved  to  belong  to  some 
friends  of  Trinidad.  He  graciously  informed 
me  that  there  would  be  nothing  to  pay,  such 
being  the  case,  which,  of  course,  made  me  feel 
uncomfortable,  until  I  saw  some  youngsters 
playing  about,  to  whom  I  made  a  little  present 
of  a  couple  of  reales — and  afterward  felt  still 
more  uncomfortable  at  their  disposition  to 
swallow  them. 

It  was  a  very  clean,  new  place.  I  had  an 
excellent  sleep,  after  a  very  good  supper. 
Jesus  received  his  doce  reales  with  many 
thanks,  and  made  polite  arrangements  for 
something  to  eat  and  a  place  to  lay  himself  in 
the  porch.  Next  morning  he  was  off  on  his 
way  back  to  Comayagua  before  Trinidad  had 
gotten  our  mules  saddled. 


172  THE    UKPTBLIC    OF   HONDURAS. 

I  do  not  care  very  much  to  remember  that 
day's  journey  and  that  night's  pause.  It 
rained,  and  we  got  wet;  there  were  several 
deep  rivers  to  ford,  all  easier  for  myself  than 
for  Trinidad,  who  grumbled  at  rolling  up 
or,  indeed,  taking  off  his  nice  white  trousers, 
and  for  the  luggage-mule,  who  had  ideas  of  his 
own  about  drinking  and  sailing  down-stream 
at  inconvenient  moments.  Trinidad,  trouser- 
less,  made  me  think  of  one  of  Rider  Haggard's 
Englishmen  in  Africa.  About  noon  we  came 
to  Miambur,  and  rode  under  a  sort  of  thatched 
shed  which  appeared  provided  purposely  for 
travelers.  Across  the  road  was  a  house  where 
the  mozo  knew  we  would  get  a  good  breakfast. 
He  took  the  trunks  off  the  pack-mule  to  give 
him  a  rest,  and  unloosened  the  saddle-girth  of 
my  animal.  He  thought  he  would  feed  them 
as  well. 

This  was  Miambur.  I  sat  down  on  one  of 
my  trunks  and  looked  around  me.  A  level 
space,  dotted  with  a  few  dreary  habitations, 
mostly  thatched;  splendid  hills  rising  on  all 
sides,  and  a  river  of  some  width  and  force 
close  at  hand — one  of  many  streams  flowing 
down  ultimately  to  mingle  in  the  waters  of  the 
Ulua.  A  half-dozen  soldiers  came  and  studied 


oisr  TO  YOJOA.  173 

me,  then  took  up  lounging  positions  under  the 
spacious  shed,  and  began  to  banter  good- 
humored  remarks  with  Trinidad,  who  was 
plaintively  reciting  a  serious  grievance,  as  fol- 
lows :  The  last  time  he  had  passed  through 
that  place  he  had  loaned  an  acquaintance  some 
rawhide  lassos,  expecting  to  receive  them  back 
on  his  next  trip  down  to  the  coast.  The  bor- 
rower now  boldly  denied  any  such  loan.  Trini- 
dad thereupon  addressed  him  a  severe  dis- 
course upon  his  morals,  to  which  the  other 
mildly  replied:  "  Amigo  mio,  don't  stain  my 
reputation  with  unjust  aspersions;"  and  thus 
they  harangued  for  an  hour  or  more.  But 
Trinidad  did  not  get  back  his  lassos  of  raw- 
hide, or  any  compensation  for  them.  When 
we  left  the  place,  he  was  still  reciting  his  grief 
at  such  treatment  from  people  who  were  noth- 
ing less  than  ladrones. 

That  night!  ugh,  that  night  I  We  did  not 
reach  Youre,  much  less  Santa  Cruz.  There 
was  more  rain,  and  Trinidad  hesitated  at  cross- 
ing a  certain  river,  which  at  night  was  high, 
and  by  morning  ran  dry,  or  nearly  so;  in  con- 
sequence of  which  he  piloted  me  to  a  spot 
where  a  small  thatched  hut  with  walls,  supple- 
merited  by  a  smaller  thatched  hut  without 


174  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

walls,  sheltered  a  family  of  half  a  dozen.  The 
family  all  slept  in  the  hut  with  walls.  The 
smaller  place  was  about  three  yards  square, 
and  contained  a  native  stove,  a  rude  table,  and 
a  tortilla  board,  which  almost  filled  it.  By 
swinging  my  hammock  over  the  stove  and 
table  we  managed  to  squeeze  under  shelter  for 
the  night.  My  clothing  was  damp,  but  I  could 
not  remove  any  of  it.  It  was  stickily  uncom- 
fortable, but  I  caught  no  cold,  and  had  no 
fever. 

The  blessed  morning  came  at  last.  Coffee, 
tortillas,  one  real;  mules,  and — off  again  for 
Youre,  and,  later,  Santa  Cruz.  Discomforts 
and  rain  aside,  one  sees  between  Cuevas  and 
Santa  Cruz  the  most  grandly  diversified  coun- 
try, I  suppose,  to  be  found  anywhere.  Near 
Miambur  there  are  mountains  to  cross  where 
the  road  has  been  cut  in  steps  which  appear 
hewn  out  of  marble.  Up  and  down  this  beau- 
tiful path  leads  through  splendid  forests  and 
over  wind-swept  slopes,  where  the  silence  is 
broken  only  by  distant  water- falls  or  the  won- 
derful music  of  the  birds.  At  Youre  a  solitary 
thatched  house  sat  on  the  high  brow  of  a  hill. 
A  woman  and  a  little  girl  were  the  only  human 
beings  when  we  arrived.  But  as  we  sat  enjoy- 


ON   TO    YOJOA.  175 

ing  oar  breakfast  in  the  coolness  of  that  airy 
height,  other  voices  Avere  heard,  and  up  came, 
along  the  same  road  that  we  had  traversed, 
two  couriers  from  Tegucigalpa,  with  the  leather 
mail-bags  on  their  backs.  They  had  started  afoot 
two  days  later  than  we.  They  dropped  down 
on  the  earthen  floor  under  the  pleasant  shelter, 
and  chatted  as  if  they  were  not  so  very  tired. 
They,  too,  ordered  some  breakfast,  which  hav- 
ing made  quick  work  of,  they  were  off  ahead 
of  us,  making  short  cuts  impossible  for  our 
beasts,  and  letting  themselves  down  steep  hill- 
sides with  wonderful  swiftness  and  surety. 

And  now,  as  we  plodded  on,  the  mountains 
grew  gradually  less  formidable.  A  wonderful 
world  of  gently  rolling  slopes  spread  out  before 
us.  The  grass  was  of  a  rich  and  brilliant  em- 
erald. The  broken  earth,  as  that  of  the  road, 
showed  red  as  blood  in  places.  To  the  left,  in 
the  distance,  were  vast  and  splendid  fields  of 
cane.  A  pond-like  marsh,  densely  surrounded 
with  beautiful  bamboos,  made  one  think  that 
Lake  Yojoa  was  not  far  away. 

And  by  night-fall  we  were  once  more  out  of 
the  wilds,  having  reached  the  pretty  little  town 
of  Santa  Cruz  de  Yojoa.  Here,  in  a  spacious 
room  of  a  comfortable  house,  once  more  my 


176  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

hammock  was*  Swung,  and  after  supper  I  crept 
into  it  for  the  last  night  but  two. 


V. 

THE   FINISH. 

From  Santa  Cruz — a  very  habitable  spot, 
some  of  the  best  people,  General  Leiva  for  one, 
having  country  places  there,  and  there  being 
both  postal  and  telegraph  facilities — we  should 
have  made  the  remaining  distance  of  about 
forty  miles  to  San  Pedro  in  a  day  or  a  day  and 
a  half,  that  is,  had  the  mozo  been  mounted, 
and  no  luggage  included,.  As  it  was,  we  left 
early  on  Sunday  morning,  and  reached  San 
Pedro  only  on  Tuesday  afternoon.  There  were 
now  no  more  mountains  to  climb,  but  a  fine  level 
road,  along  which  the  happy  rider  of  a  good 
saddle  animal  might  canter  with  delight.  Sosoa, 
then  Rio  Blanco,  and  presently  Potrerillos— 
' '  little  pastures. ' '  At  Rio  Blanco,  refreshments. 
At  Potrerillos,  a  river  to  cross  in  a  canoe — a 
ferry-man  to  be  hallooed  for  on  the  opposite 
side;  mules  to  be  unloaded;  trunks  to  be  put  in 
the  canoe;  traveler  to  sit  upon  trunks;  mules  to 
be  whacked  with  the  ferry-man's  oar  to  make 
them  go  into  the  water  and  swim  across,  Trini- 


THE   FINISH.  177 

dad  holding  their  bridles.  Thank  heaven!  the 
Ulna  is  crossed !  On  the  opposite  side  we  sit 
sweltering  under  a  lemon  tree.  It  is  one 
o'clock,  the  hottest  hour  of  day.  I  gather 
some  of  the  fallen  lemons;  then  I  take  the  gourd 
from  the  saddle  lying  on  the  ground,  creep 
down  to  the  river  side  and  fill  it  with 
water.  I  come  back  and  squeeze  the  lemon 
juice  into  it  and  put  in  some  dulce  which  I 
bought  at  the  last  stopping-place.  The  drink 
is  capital. 

The  settlements  for  the  rest  of  the  way  were 
close  to  each  other — Caracol,  Pinto,  Chamele- 
con,  then  San  Pedro.  But  Trinidad  and  the 
mules  were  not  as  fresh  as  at  the  beginning  of 
the  long  trip.  We  spent  that  night  at  a  house 
a  little  before  Caracol.  It  was  a  marshy  region, 
and  the  mosquitoes  were  unbearable — actually 
the  first  I  had  seen  in  the  country.  The  hut  was 
one  of  two  surrounded  by  the  luxuriant  vege- 
tation which  thence  on*was  continuous  to  the 
coast.  Under  my  hammock,  on  the  earth  floor, 
I  kindled  some  sticks  of  resinous  wood  that 
smoked  the  insects  out,  and  made  me  feel  like 
the  saint  that  was  broiled  on  a  gridiron.  I  was 
glad  to  be  off  again  at  dawn.  The  country 

was  now  a  perfect  tropical  garden.     We  fol- 
12 


178  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

lowed  along  the  side  of  the  unused  railroad 
track,  which  is  laid  as  far  inland  as  the  Ulua 
River,  but  almost  completely  overgrown  with 
bushes  and  grass.  One  more  night — a  com- 
fortable one  —  at  Pinto.  One  more  early  start; 
more  riding  through  the  indescribable  beauty 
of  groves  of  cocoa  palms,  a  perfect  covering 
overhead  of  the  sweeping,  immense  leaves; 
coolness,  moist  black  earth  below.  The  blaze 
of  the  sun  completely  shut  out.  An  absurd 
idea  occurring  to  one:  "What  lovely  bowers 
these  are  for  a  summer  garden  !  Just  to  have 
little  tables  here  and  there,  and  waiters  to  bring 
beer  and  ginger  ale,  and  a  good  band  to  play 
constantly!  Wouldn't  it  be  comfortable!" 
Miles  and  miles  through  these  groves;  then 
breakfast  at  Chamelecon,  and  another  ferry  to 
be  crossed  in  canoe.  At  Chamelecon,  as  at  all 
these  coast  settlements,  plenty  of  milk  to  drink, 
rich  and  delicious.  The  old  woman  forgets  to 
give  one  his  change,  but  no  matter.  Only  a  few 
more  miles  to  San  Pedro.  And  mid-afternoon  we 
were  winding  our  way  along  the  well-kept  roads 
leading  into  that  pretty  place.  Trinidad  was 
stopped  presently  by  an  inspector,  and  had  to 
pay  real  of  entrance  toll.  By  this  we  felt 
that  v\re  were  in  the  town.  San  Pedro  some- 


THE  FINISH.  179 

how  reminded  me  of  Coney  Island;  I  suppose 
it  was  the  summery  style  of  the  houses;  It  is 
situated  on  the  plain  of  Sula,  back  from  which 
rise,  circle  shape,  the  everlasting  hills  from 
which  we  had  come  down.  There  is  a  fine 
Catholic  church  and  a  Protestant  meeting- 
house. The  Catholic  church  stands  in  a  plaza 
planted  with  orange  trees.  There  are  many 
good  stores  and  a  court-house.  Picturesquely 
considered,  the  town  could  not  be  sweeter. 
There  are  two  or  three  streams  flowing  by  and 
through  it,  the  Rio  de  las  Piedras  being  the 
principal  one.  There  are  three  main  streets  run- 
ning the  entire  length  of  the  town,  and  the  trees 
that  grow  along  all  the  roads  are  covered  with 
vines  that  blossom  riotously  the  year  round. 
We  made  our  way  in  the  direction  of  the  Inter- 
national Hotel,  a  long,  rambling  wooden  build- 
ing. I  slipped  out  of  the  saddle  and  left  the 
mules  in  charge  of  the  mozo,  while  I  entered 
the  office.  The  hundred-league  ride  was  over ! 
I  had  a  bath,  and  discovered  that  the  dinner 
hour  was  not  far  off.  Trinidad  brought  in  my 
luggage.  I  settled  accounts  and  said  " good- 
bye" to  him.  He  shook  hands  with  me  and 
wished  me  good  luck.  Exit  the  mozo.  When 
I  dined,  an  hour  later,  I  realized  for  the  first 


180  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

time  that  I  had  been  on  short  allowance  as  to 
rations  for  the  past  ten  days.  My  appetite 
was  simply  terrifying.  Everything  tasted  de- 
licious. I  slept  soundly  on  a  bed  with  a  mat- 
tress, and  spent  the  next  day  rambling  about 
the  town.  The  day  after,  the  train  went  down 
to  the  Port  giving  us  thirty-eight  miles  of  rail- 
way travel  of  the  most  singular  description.  An 
engine,  a  tender,  a  baggage  and  freight  car 
combined,  and  a  passenger  coach,  the  last  not 
much  longer  than  a  New  York  street-car,  and 
having  the  seats  similarly  arranged — that  is, 
running  lengthwise.  There  were,  of  course,  a 
good  many  passengers;  among  the  number,  Mr. 
Jones,  a  Welsh  missionary,  interested  me  with 
his  sincerity  and  evident  goodness  of  heart, 
although,  as  a  lady  remarked  to  me,  ' '  the  poor, 
dear  man  has  a  formidable  task  in  prospect  if 
he  thinks  to  convert  any  of  the  Catholics  of 
Honduras  to  Protestantism."  I  noticed,  how- 
ever, the  invariable  respect  with  which  he  was 
treated  by  one  and  all,  who  accepted  his  Span- 
ish and  English  tracts  and  put  them  carefully 
in  their  pockets. 

The  train  made  a  stop  every  three  or  four 
miles  to  load  with  mahogany  and  other  timber 
and  fruit.  At  Choloma,  reached  at  noon,  we 


A   RESUME.  181 

« 

took  a  breakfast  of  actual  luxuries.  On  we 
went  again,  making  slow  progress  all  afternoon 
long.  It  was  not  that  the  train  did  not  make 
good  time  while  in  motion,  but  that  the  inces- 
sant stopping  to  load  kept  us  back.  It  was 
extremely  hot  in  the  cars.  Not  a  breath  of  air 
blew  through.  We  sat  there,  moist  and  help- 
less, until  the  end.  The  day  drew  toward  its 
close.  We  began  to  pass  little  lagoons.  At 
last  a  pause.  We  were  at  Puerto  Cortez.  But 
we  did  not  get  out.  The  train  would  go 
down  another  mile.  It  went  down.  It  came 
to  a  final  stop.  We  got  out.  There,  close  at 
hand,  was  the  HotelBiraud,  a  comfortable-look- 
ing place.  And  yonder,  that  which  I  had  not 
seen  for  over  a  year,  softly  swaying,  far- 
stretching,  the  measureless  meadows  of  blue — 
of  the  sea ! 


VI. 

A  RESUME. 

A  good  rider,  well  mounted  and  unhindered 
with  luggage,  which  it  is  always  well  to  send 
on  a  day  or  two,  or  even  three,  in  advance,  can 
make  the  trip  from  Tegucigalpa  to  San  Pedro 
easily  as  follows  ; 


182  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

Tegucigalpa  to  Protection first  day. 

Protection  to  Comayagua second  day. 

Comayagua  to  Cuevas third  day. 

Cuevas  to  Miambur fourth  day. 

Miambur  to  Santa  Cruz fifth  day. 

Santa  Cruz  to  Pinto sixth  day. 

Pinto  to  San  Pedro  seventh  day. 

As  the  crow  flies,  the  distance  from  capital 
to  coast  is  not,  of  course,  anything  like  the 
distance  to  be  covered  in  riding  up  and  down 
and  around  the  tremendous  mountains  and 
wonderful  valleys  which  lie  between  the  inte- 
rior and  the  sea. 

I,  myself,  hampered  by  luggage  and  servant 
afoot,  spent  nine  nights  en  route — one  of  which, 
at  Comayagua,  being  unnecessary. 

My  journey  was  divided  as  follows : 

Tegucigalpa  to  roadside  house  before 
reaching  Tamara first  day. 

Roadside  house  to  Las  Flores second  day. 

Las  Flores  to  Comayagua third  day. 

In  Comayagua fourth  day. 

Comayagua  to  Cuevas fifth  day. 

Cuevas  to  near  Miambur sixth  day. 

From  near  Miambur  to  Santa  Cruz  de 
Yojoa seventh  day. 

Santa  Cruz  de  Yojoa  to  near  Caracol eighth  day. 

Near  Caracol  to  Pinto ninth  day. 

Pinto  to  San  Pedro tenth  day. 


A   RESUME.  183 

The  places  through  which  we  passed  were: 
Tamara,  Proteccion,  Las  Flores,  San  Antonio 
al  Norte,  Comayagua,  Sabana  Larga,  Cuevas, 
Miambur,  Youre,  Santa  Cruz  de  Yojoa,  Sosoa, 
Rio  Blanco,  Potrerillos,  Caracol,  Pinto,  Cham- 
elecon,  San  Pedro  Sula. 

It  would  be  absurd  in  anyone  to  pretend  that 
making  a  trip  of  little  less  than  three  hundred 
miles  in  the  saddle,  with  only  the  rudest  shelter 
at  night  and  small  chance  of  obtaining  proper 
food,  is  a  trifling  undertaking.  It  looks  easy 
enough  on  paper,  perhaps,  but  put  into  execu- 
tion, the  plan  is  somewhat  more  formidable. 
One  should  endeavor,  of  course,  to  get  good 
animals;  not  so  much  spirited  and  handsome 
beasts  as  those  with  easy  gaits,  sure-footed, 
and  likely  to  hold  out  well  to  the  end.  One 
should  travel  as  light  as  possible.  Do  not  load 
yourself  down  with  potted  meats  that  will  mix 
themselves  up  with  other  articles  most  unac- 
countably, once  the  tins  are  opened;  loaves  of 
bread  to  get  stale  at  once,  and  the  like  —  I 
mean,  if  you  wish  to  go  through  in  quick  time. 
If  you  are  in  no  hurry,  and  have  an  idea  of 
camping  out,  it  is  different. 

Carry  a  nice  cloth  hammock,  that  will  not 
take  up  too  much  room  and  that  will  not  need 


184  TUP]    REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

a  blanket  to  make  it  absolutely  comfortable. 
If  you  want  a  blanket  over  you,  carry  one  riot 
too  large.  Take  a  flask  of  brandy  along,  but 
do  not  drink  it  unless  you  get  wet  and  chilled. 
Take  a  gourd  to  drink  out  of,  and  carry  some 
small  change,  averaging  two  reales  for  every 
place  you  expect  to  stop  at.  Do  not  lose 
courage  when  the  posada  people  tell  you  "  No 
hay."  Be  persistent,  and  use  a  great  deal  of 
politeness. 

Do  not  try  to  kill  chickens  with  stones;  their 
owners  will  get  angry  and  refuse  to  cook  them 
for  love  or  money. 

American  drafts  and  American  money,  gold 
and  bills,  bring  a  premium  of  about  twenty-five 
per  cent.  You  can  sell  your  drafts  higher  at 
the  port  than  at  the  interior. 

There  are  two  good  banks  in  Tegucigalpa. 

It  is  not  a  bad  idea  to  take  your  own  saddle 
with  you.  For  a  lady,  indeed,  it  is  necessary 
to  do  so;  otherwise  she  will  probably  be  obliged 
to  ride  one  of  the  left- sided  saddles  of  the 
country,  which  are  very  awkward  and  uncom- 
fortable. 

Summer  garments  and  broad-brimmed  sum- 
mer hats  should  be  remembered. 

There  are  very  good  old-school  physicians  in 


A  RESUME. 


185 


Honduras,  but  people  who  believe  in  homoeop- 
athy should  take  along  their  little  medicine- 
cases  freshly  filled.  A  timely  remedy  of  this 
sort  may  prove  of  inestimable  value  in  case  of 
sudden  illness.  But  with  proper  care  of  one- 
self one  may  enjoy,  uninterruptedly,  the  best 
of  health  in  Honduras. 


APPENDIX. 

GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Honduras  is  the  second  in  size  and  fourth  in 
population  of  the  five  Central  American  Re- 
publics. 

Name. — Honduras,  signifying  great  depths 
or  profundities. 

Area. — Forty-seven  thousand  and  ninety- 
two  square  miles. 

Geographical  Position.  —  In  the  northern 
part  of  Central  America,  between  13°  10'  and 
16°  north  latitude,  and  stretching  from  83°  to 
89°  45'  west  longitude. 

Boundaries.  —  North,  Caribbean  Sea  and 
Gulf  of  Honduras;  east,  Caribbean  Sea  and 
Republic  of  Nicaragua;  south,  Republic  of 
Nicaragua,  Gulf  of  Fonseca,  and  Republic  of 
Salvador;  west,  Republics  of  Salvador  and 
Guatemala. 

Topography.— Grandly  mountainous;  coun- 
try traversed  by  the  Cordilleras,  connecting  the 
Sierra  Madre  with  the  Andes.  Toward  the 
coasts  the  mountains  die  away  into  gently  roll- 
ing hills.  The  principal  valleys  are  in  the 

(187) 


188  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

departments  of  Comayagua,  Gracias,  Santa 
Barbara,  Yoro,  and  Olancho. 

Principal  Rivers. — The  Guayape  or  Patuca, 
Guayambre,  Ulua,  Chamelecon,  Sulaco,  Cho- 
luteca,  Aguan,  and  Agalta. 

Lakes. — Yojoa,  in  the  department  of  Santa 
Barbara. 

Islands. — Tigre  Island,  in  the  Gulf  of  Fon- 
seca,  and  the  Bay  Islands,  off  the  north  coast. 

Ports. — Pacific  side :  Amapala,  on  Tigre 
Island,  San  Lorenzo,  and  La  Brea.  Atlantic 
coast:  Omoa,  Puerto  Cortez,  Trujillo,  and 
Ceiba. 

Departments.  —  Tegucigalpa,  Comayagua, 
Paraiso,  La  Paz,  Intibuca,  Choluteca,  Santa 
Barbara,  Copan,  Gracias,  Yoro,  Olancho,  and 
Colon. 

Principal  Cities  and  Towns. — Tegucigalpa, 
the  capital;  Comayagua,  the  old  capital;  Yus- 
caran,  Santa  Barbara,  Trujillo,  San  Pedro 
Sula,  and  Amapala. 

Climate. — Hot  on  the  coast  lands;  mild  and 
even  at  the  interior. 

Language.  — Spanish. 

Means  of  Traveling. — On  horse  or  mule- 
back,  or  in  ox-cart.  From  Puerto  Cortez 
inland  thirty-seven  miles  to  San  Pedro  Sula 


GENERAL   INFORMATION.  189 

is  a  railroad,  which  is  to  be  continued  up  to 
the  capital,  later  on. 

Population. — Honduras  entire,  about  400,- 
000;  Tegucigalpa,  15,000;  Comayagua,  10,000. 

Principal  Hotels.  -  -  Tegucigalpa :  Hotel 
Americano,  Berlioz  &  Co.,  proprietors;  Hotel 
Aleman-Americano,  Pablo  Nehring,  proprie- 
tor; Hotel  Vicne,  Hotel  Centro-Americano. 
Comayagua:  Hotel  Americano.  Sabana- 
grande:  Hotel  Sabanagrande,  Jose  M.  Mejia, 
proprietor.  San  Pedro  Sula:  Hotel  Centro- 
Americano,  L.  Seiffert,  manager;  International 
Hotel,  A.  Wernle,  proprietor.  Puerto  Cortez: 
Hotel  Biraud. 

Transportation  and  Mining  Agents. — Pes- 
pire :  Messrs.  Jiron  &  Medina. 

Steamship  Lines. — Pacific  Mail,  touching 
bi-weekly  at  Amapala;  Macheca  Bros.  Line, 
between  New  Orleans  and  Puerto  Cortez,  three 
steamers  per  month,  Macheca  Bros.,  New 
Orleans;  De  Leon  &  Alger,  agents  at  Puerto 
Cortez.  Honduras  &  Central  American  Steam- 
ship Company,  Williams  &  Rankin,  New 
York;  J.  D.  Mirrielees,  agent,  Puerto  Cortez. 
Steamers  Aguan  and  Hondo,  touching  at 
Puerto  Cortez  and  Trujillo,  from  New  York, 
Boston,  and  European  ports. 


190 


THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 


Seasons.  —  Verano,  or  dry  season,  lasting 
from  November  to  May;  invierno,  or  wet  sea- 
son, lasting  from  May  to  November. 

TABLES  SHOWING  TEMPEKATURE   OP  DRY  SEASON  AND  WET 
SEASON. 

Locality,  Tegucigalpa,  west  longitude  87°  10',  north  lat- 
itude 14°  15'.  Altitude,  3,200  feet  above  sea-level. 

FEBRUARY,  1889. 


Date. 

Minimum. 

Maximum. 

Notes. 

7 

66°  F. 

81°  F. 

j 

8 

65°  F. 

80°  F. 

>•  Weather  fair  and  pleasant. 

9 

62°  F. 

80°  F. 

) 

10 
11 

66°  F. 
69°  F. 

83°  F. 
83°  F. 

j-  Nights  cool. 

12 
13 

67°  F. 
64°  F. 

82°  F. 
79°  F. 

>  Full  moon. 

OCTOBER,  1889. 


Date. 

Minimum. 

Maximum. 

Notes. 

11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 

66    F. 
64°  F. 
68°  F. 
67°  F. 
65°  F. 
64°  F. 
65°  F. 
04°  F. 

76°  F. 
76°  F. 
79°  F. 

78°  F. 
78°  F. 
77°  F. 

77°  F. 
77°  F. 

Rain  during  the  evening. 
Rain  during  the  evening. 

Rain  during  the  evening. 

Advice  to  Strangers.— Wear  summer  cloth- 
ing; bring  light  overcoats  and  wraps  for  the 
interior;  travel  as  lightly  as  possible,  with  small 
steamer  trunks,  in  pairs,  each  weighing  the 
same;  eat  no  fruit  for  a  fortnight  after  arriving; 
^void  getting  wet  and  chilled;  provide  yourself 


SOME  SPANISH   WORDS.  191 

with  a  good  rubber  cloak  that  will  not  open  in 
front  with  the  wind. 

SOME  SPANISH   WORDS 

Used  in  this  book,  and  some  which  the  traveler 
will  hear  and  should  understand,  and  their 
definitions : 

Gringo  (Honduras  word) Foreigner. 

Frijoles  (freeholays) Black  beans. 

Tortillas Thin  cakes  made  of  corn, 

Queso  (kayso) Cheese. 

Pan Bread. 

Mantequilla  (mantaykeya) Butter. 

Quiero  (keeayro) I  wish. 

Cuanto How  much? 

Cuanto  vale  (cwanto  vahlie) How  much  does  it  cost? 

Camino  (cameeno) Road. 

Lejos  (layhos) Far. 

Cerca  (sairca) Near. 

Aqui  no  mas Right  here. 

Como  no ! Of  course. 

Huevos  (wavos) Eggs. 

Polio  (poyo) Chicken. 

Carne Meat. 

Cafe*  (cahfay) Coffee. 

Leche  (laychay) Milk. 

Equipaje  (ekkypahy) Luggage. 

Baules  (bah-ooles) Trunks. 

Paraguas Umbrella. 

Posada Lodging. 

Hamaca  (ahmaka) Hammock. 


192  THE  REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

Comida Dinner. 

Almuerzo  (almooairzo) Breakfast. 

Bodega Warehouse. 

Pan  dulce Coffee-cake. 

Macho Male  mule. 

Ponga Put. 

Traiga  (triga) Bring. 

Quita Take  away. 

Calentura Fever. 

Catarro Cold  in  the  head. 

Frio Cold. 

Calor Heat. 

Caraa Bed. 

Algo Something. 

Lluvia  (yuveea) Rain. 

Va  a  Hover  (va  a  yovair> It  is  going  to  rain. 

Cansado  (cansahdo) Tired. 

Tengo  hambre  (tengo  ahmbray) I  am  hungry. 

Tengo  sed I  am  thirsty. 

Un  vaso  de  agua A  glass  of  water. 

Hay?  (pronounced  I) Is  there? 

Si,  hay Yes,  there  is. 

No  hay There  isn't  any. 

Alacran Scorpion. 

Aguardiente Brandy. 

Muy  caro Very  dear. 

Machete Big  knife. 

Soy  Americano I  am  an  American. 

Estoy  cansado I  am  tired. 

Dinero  (deenairo) Money. 

Pago I  pay. 

Luego  (looaigo) Immediately. 


NOMENCLATURE.  193 

Ahora  (ah-ora) Now. 

Mozo Guide  or  servant. 

Bestias Animals. 

Quiero  ir I  wish  to  go. 

Mas  tarde Later. 

Tegucigalpa  (Tay-goo-ci-gurpa) 

Pues,  hombre , Well,  sir. 

Hombre  ! Man  alive ! 

NOMENCLATURE. 

The  following  interesting  remarks  upon  the 
names  of  Mosquito,  have  been  published  by  Dr. 
Antonio  R.  Vallejo  in  the  latest  census  of 
Honduras: 

The  name  of  the  important  town  of  Iriona,  where  is  the 
easternmost  custom-house  in  this  republic,  is  from  M,  thorn, 
and  orui,  one,  or  "  one  thorn." 

Mafia  is  the  name  of  the  devil  worshiped  by  the  Waiknas. 

Cropunto  is  a  Waikna  village  on  the  bank  of  the  Guayape. 
It  was  founded  by  the  Payas  many  years  ago.  The  name  is 
said  to  be  a  corruption  of  the  English  word  crawfish  joined 
to  the  Spanish  pu nto,  a  point.  The  name  signifies  "crawfish 
point,"  and  describes  properly  the  point,  or  clay -bank,  near 
which  is  the  village  landing.  It  is  more  than  likely,  however, 
that  the  name  is  from  emu,  crayfish,  and  unta,  hole,  from 
the  Waikna  language. 

Many  years  ago,  a  chief  of  the  Payas,  named  Butuco,  was 
established  near  the  mouth  of  the  River  Guayape,  called  by 
English-speaking  people  the  "  Patook."  It  is  easy  to  see  that 
the  latter  is  a  corruption  of  the  name  of  the  old  Paya.  Senor 
Vallejo  says:  "  Jocomacho,  or  Tocomacho,  is  said  by  some  to 
have  come  from  the  English  phrase  'took  match/  Others 
believe,  and  this  is  more  probable,  that  this  name  is  taken 
from  a  Senor  Camacho,  whose  family  still  exists  there."  It 
is  said  that  Senor  Camacho  was  jestingly  called  by  the  Eng- 
13 


194          Tin:  REPUBLIC  OF  HONDURAS. 

lish   "  the  Duke  of  Camacho,"  and  that  this  title  gradually 
became  l<  Dukoinacho,"  and  finally  "  Jocomacho." 

"Cusuna"  i.s  the  Carib  name  of  the  fish  called  dormilon  in 
Spanish.  The  village  of  Cusuna  has  two  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  inhabitants. 

Carata'-ca  is  a  Waikna  name  for  Cartago  Lagoon,  and  sig- 
nifies "  big  alligator."  It  is  from  earn,  alligator,  and  tarn,  big, 
and  should  be  written  "  Caratara." 

Sangre-laya  comes  from  the  Waikna  words  sangre,  a  moth, 
and  laya,  coast,  and  means  "  the  coast  of  the  moth." 

Guayape  is  said  to  be  from  f/"<i»i<ij>in,  ti  robe  worn  by 
Indian  women,  and  is  the  proper  name  for  the  great  river 
which,  rising  in  the  mountain  ranges  surrounding  Concordia, 
flows  across  the  Valley  of  Lepaguare,  past  the  city  of  Juticalpa, 
capital  of  the  large  department  of  Olancho,  through  the  great 
Valley  of  Cataeamas  and  the  vast  Plain  of  Mosquito,  to  empty 
into  the  Caribbean  Sea.  Not  far  from  the  sea,  the  Guayape 
divides,  the  main  channel  flowing  on  in  a  northeasterly  direc- 
tion, and  the  smaller  one  going  northwest  to  P>rus  Lagoon. 
This  minor  channel  is  called  Tnnnt,  seed  of  the  annato,  and 
mirra,  toward  the  bottom. 

Ualpa-tanta  is  an  isolated  mountain  against  which  the  Gua- 
yape washes.  At  its  base  is  a  large  settlement  where  the  rub- 
ber gatherers  meet  to  buy  goods  and  get  drunk,  once  or  twice 
a  year.  The  name  is  from  the  Sumo  words  //////•</,  rock,  and 
tanta,  flat. 

Ualpa-ulbun,  or  "  rock  written  on,"  or  carved,  is  it-elf  about 
two  days  paddling  above  Ualpa-tanta,  and  is  an  interesting 
archaeological  study. 

Uaxma,  the  name  of  a  settlement  on  the  Guayape,  signifies 
"  the  cry  of  hawk." 

Uampu,  the  name  of  one  of  the  more  important  tributaries 
of  the  Guayape,  means  "  the  upper  part,  the  head."  It  is  also 
the  name  of  the  Guava. 

There  is  a  river  which  flows  into  the  Guayape  from  the 
south,  and  is  called  Amac-uas — the  river  of  honey-bees.  An- 
other tributary  is  called  Aca-uas — water  of  tobacco;  a  third  is 
the  Uas-presni — swift-running  water.  Farther  up-stream  the 
Cuyumel  comes  in.  The  Sumos  name  it  the  Inska-ualpa-ula, 


IMPORTATION'S   OF   MERCHANDISE.          195 

or  the  fish -rock  place.  The  River  Suji  (pronounced  soohe)  flows 
into  the  River  Segovia;  it  gets  its  name  from  the  Toaca  word 
siiji,  a  grindstone  or  sandstone. 

Up  the  Plantain  River  is  the  Paya  town  of  Sixatara.  Sixa, 
banana,  and  tar  a  is  *l  big." 

The  Sambo  hamlet  of  Urang  has  the  same  name  as  is  given 
to  the  alligator,  "cacao." 

Tilbalacca  Lagoon  gets  its  name  from  the  fact  that  a  party 
of  Waiknas  Once  killed  a  tilba,  tapir,  in  its  waters,  and  build- 
ing a  fire  beneath  a  large  lacca,  locust  tree,  hung  the  flesh  of 
their  prey  on  the  branches  to  cure  in  the  smoke. 

The  rather  pretty  Waikna  name  for  the  pleasantly  flavored 
little  maiden  plantain  is  miel-silpa,  literally  little  sweet,  or 
honey -little;  that  is,  little  honey. 

IMPORTATIONS   OF   MERCHANDISE. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  merchandise  im- 
ported into  Honduras  during  the  economic 
year  1887-88 : 

FIRST   CLASS. 

FREE  OF  DUTY. 

Pounds. 
Rice 242,258 

Garlic 2,821 

Fence-wire 38,316 

Oats 1,356 

Empty  barrels 1 ,316 

Pumps 1,310 

Onions *  30,247 

Carts  and  coaches 10,263 

Piping 4,003 

Lime 53,224 

Coal 2,005 

Terrestrial  spheres 61 


196  THE  REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

Pounds. 

Beans 49,794 

Empty  demijohns 4,618 

Flour 2,396, 149 

Printing  machines 410 

Printed  books 9,869 

Yeast  powder 107 

Samples 2,239 

Machinery 64,170 

Corn 103,764 

Apples 4,317 

Marble 439 

Potatoes 66,895 

Pears 208 

Stone  tanks 830 

Empty  sacks 19,671 

Common  salt 435,505 

Seeds 17 

Zinc  tiles 70,233 

Stone  jars 140 

Fresh  grapes 554 

Vegetables 742 


Total 3,618,211 

SECOND   CLASS. 

DUTY,    TWO  CENTS  PER  POUND. 

Pounds. 
Linseed-oil 6,618 

Turpentine   4,833 

Glassware 222 

Castor-oil 19,021 

Tar 6,789 


IMPORTATIONS    OF   MERCHANDISE.  197 

Pounds. 

Sugar 228,968 

Olive-oil 26,873 

Mineral  water „ 4,571 

Starch 1,077 

Sulphuric  acid 3,306 

Codliver-oil 4,855 

Resinous  oil 1,061 

Steel. 7,938 

Almond-oil 4,137 

Cotton  (raw) 105 

Hemp-seed 306 

Rosin 514 

Codfish 19,002 

Brooches 36 

Borax 60 

Advertising  pictures 1,017 

Iron  nails 80,394 

Chromos 24 

Beer 427,936 

Chalk  in  powder 23 

Sieves 123 

Glassware 36,576 

Salt  beef 33,345 

Coffee 22,987 

Iron  boilers 10,083 

Barley 1 , 234 

Rattles 3,060 

Penholders 24 

Cacao 6,308 

Black  wax .% 21 

Bedsteads 5,106 

Copper  sheet- 3,055 


198  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

Pounds. 

Raw  tallow 233 

Heavy  paper  (cartoon) 160 

Glue 1 72 

Carbonate  of  soda 60 

Dynamite 6,190 

Brooms 2,463 

Sheets  of  zinc 81 

Inferior  fibre  712 

Scott's  Emulsion 2,611 

Glass  bottles 16,066 

Stone  figures  252 

Crackers 75,593 

Ginger 15,571 

Peas 425 

Sheets  of  tin 5,074 

Manufactured  iron : 68,099 

Lasts 860 

Axes 16,692 

Common  soap 235,227 

Books  in  blank 3,365 

Ordinary  porcelain -ware 171,160 

Sealing-wax 162 

Linseed 596 

Hops 430 

Furniture 13 

Seed-planters 74,259 

Ropes  of  all  kinds 237 

Common  machetes  (brush  hooks) 11,542 

Maizena 21,277 

Mackerel 13,146 

Axe-handles 3,755 

Grinding-stones 1,292 


IMPORTATIONS   OF   MERCHANDISE.  199 

Pounds. 

Electric  machines 1,928 

Manila 73 

Sewing-machines 1,121 

Smoothing-irons 35,065 

Shovels 12,730 

Kerosene  oil 13,740 

Plow  points 297,130 

Copying-presses 318 

Paint 514 

Hog's  meat 18,631 

Hats 81,392 

Salt  fish 1,465 

Potash 2,063 

Steel  pens 149 

Lead 207 

Mats 10,381 

Earthen  jugs 357 

Scales 55 

Oars ....  1,653 

Resin 1,272 

Epsom  salts 775 

Envelopes 11,777 

Sago 7,269 

India-rubber  stamps 529 

Leather 76 

Bacon ...   515 

Writing-ink *. -. 1 7,521 

Iron  tacks 7,369 

Iron  screws 1,298 

Writing  utensils 1,382 

Wines 619,953 

Vinegar 9,434 


200  THE   REPUBLIC    OF   HONDURAS. 

Pounds. 
Chemicals  for  preserving  hides 906 

Glasses  and  glassware 23,143 


Totai. . . . 2,903,138 

THIRD   CLASS. 

DUTY,  FOUR   CENTS  PER  POUND. 

Pounds. 

Fish-hooks 325 

Olives 9,920 

Iron  rings 15 

Alucema 245 

Zinc  wire 34 

Indigo 26 

Almonds 435 

Copper  wire 32 

Pails 2,970 

Baths 432 

Empty  trunks 19,807 

Varnish 841 

Baskets 962 

Glass  candlesticks 660 

Iron  locks 411 

Confectionery 31,435 

Padlocks , 1 ,137 

Tin  spoons 390 

Saddle  cloth 211 

Copper  nails 1,618 

Copper  candlesticks 53 

Capsules  for  bottles. 29 

Mattresses 2,711 

Thimbles 331 

Pickles 25,969 


IMPORTATIONS    OF   MERCHANDISE.  201 

Pounds. 

Porcelain  figures 240 

Macaroni 12,254 

Iron-ware 39,967 

Crystallized  fruit 273 

Tin  plates  5,082 

Jams 7,767 

Junco 5 

Lamps 11,508 

Raw  wool 154 

Files 126 

Shuttles 18 

Vegetables 1,550 

Fine  crockery ./^x^-  -  275 

Butter ^S\. ....  26,553 

Lard ^.^. 54, 788 

Mustard 1,105 

Ammunition 2,789 

Levels 106 

Nuts 389 

Paint 2,103 

Wrapping-paper 13,152 

Writing-paper 49,588 

Cigarette-paper 20,765 

Lead 2,768 

Spelter 166 

Bronze 55 

Shovels 18 

Pianos 7,844 

Perfumes 113 

Cheese 10,915 

Sauce 1 , 322 

Sardines 28,509 


202  THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 

Pounds. 

Quinine 178 

Chalk 34 

Utensils  for  lamps 378 

Copper  utensils 112 

Candles 39,427 

Bolts  and  hinges  . .  567 


Total 476,356 

FOURTH   CLASS. 

DUTY,    EIGHT   CENTS  PER  POUND. 

Pounds. 

Acids 627 

Bitters 1,903 

Scented  waters 28,167 

Alum 146 

Anise / 690 

Sulphur 908 

Crystallized  candies 4 

Analines 15 

Blacking 2,358 

Sacking 1,973 

Billiards 3,135 

Beeswax 2,116 

Cloves 265 

Carts 108 

Cumin-seed 5,720 

Pasteboard  boxes 2,130 

Cinnamon 2,974 

Preserved  provisions 33,523 

Common  knives 1,897 

Cherry  cordial 20 

Powdered  cubebs 6 

Champagne 4,728 


IMPORTATIONS   OF   MERCHANDISE.  203 

Pounds. 

Chocolate 2,434 

Glass  fruit  dishes 30 

Mirrors. 9,018 

Oil-cloth 1,649 

Images  and  plates .'...*. 5 

Blank  labels 63 

Refined  sulphur 268 

Matches 37,992 

Manufactured  rubber 40 

Syrups 3,105 

Canvas  and  duck 60,875 

Condensed  milk 8,343 

Canned  sausage. 137 

Printed  music 99 

Sweet  nitre 10 

Paper ,    66 

Pepper 4,225 

Pipes 2,920 

Raisins 17,384 

Sand-paper 207 

Blue-stone 12 

Portraits 376 

Soda , 1,484 

Sulphate  of  iron 70 

Sausages 215 

Sulphate  of  copper 31 

Bottle  corks 1,029 

Wire  cloth 120 

Corkscrews 7 

Rugs 71 

Vermouth 14,994 


Total. . .     260,692 


204  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

FIFTH   CLASS. 

DUTY,    TWELVE   CENTS   PER   POUND. 

Pounds. 

Accordeons  3,904 

Cotton-seed  oil 572 

Pins  and  hooks 1,199 

Rose-oil 960 

Needles 715 

Razor-strops 9 

Electric  pins 3 

Calfleather 1,047 

Brushes 397 

Hemp  canvas 288 

Cotton  thread 415 

Dumb-waiters 35 

Bed-ticking 5,085 

Chinese  fireworks 2,299 

Cotton  ribbons 710 

Quilts 5,244 

Fishing-nets 100 

Glass  beads 10 

Patent  leather 44 

Cotton  drills 87,929 

Mouth  harmonicas 1,183 

Long  cloth 27,670 

Elastics 645 

Gypsum  figures 43 

Cotton  blankets 3,594 

Gelatine 51 

Gum  arabic 571 

Cotton  cloth 46,603 

Cotton  tbrea4  33,194 


IMPORTATIONS   OF   MERCHANDISE.  205 

Pounds. 

Musical  instruments 3,707 

Surgical  instruments 19 

Toys 7,766 

Perfumed  soap 2,107 

Bird-cages 169 

Liquor-stands 76 

White  cotton 457,197 

Madapolam 45,774 

Lamp-wicks 118 

Table  cloth  and  napkins 92 

Mana 20 

Playing-cards 829 

Cotton  cloth  (olan) 10,603 

Hooks 233 

Perfumery 36,654 

Tanned  leather 6,352 

Cotton  umbrellas 7,653 

Wall-paper 1,475 

Dusters  (feather) 10 

Cotton  satin 3,516 

Cotton  parasols 959 

Siphons 496 

Satin 5,686 

Towels 5,694 

Tea 1,905 

Theodolites .  84 


Total 823,614 

SIXTH   CLASS. 

DUTY,    EIGHTEEN   CENTS  PER  POUND. 

Pounds. 
Glass  beads 3,293 

Photographic  apparatus 168 


206  THE   REPUBLIC   OF   HONDURAS. 

Pounds. 

Buttons 2,124 

Bandana 778 

Brillantina 1,251 

Walking-canes 165 

Cotton  undershirts 8,617 

Penknives 1,267 

Linen  cloth 677 

Cotton  material 212 

Cotton  drawers 472 

Glass  beads  (cuentas  de  vidrio) 22 

Drills 6,217 

Dies 11 

Cotton  socks  and  stockings 10,214 

Spatulas 29 

Riding-whips 187 

Fireworks 642 

Electric  bands 2 

Syringes 351 

Cotton  gloves.   1 

French  prints 1,671 

Lotteries 115 

Machetes  and  knives 2,732 

Fine  glass  pearls 45 

Razors 1,006 

Nutmegs 152 

Lamp-shades 240 

Overalls 40 

Painting  brushes 1 

Rosaries 122 

Sandal  cloth 1,937 

Scissors 1,093 

Forks . .  669 


IMPORTATIONS   OF   MERCHANDISE.  207 

Pounds. 

Tela  real 1,037 

Wax  candles 437 

Cotton  prints 110,820 

Total 158,817 

SEVENTH    CLASS. 

DUTY,    TWENTY-FOUR   CENTS   PER   POUND. 

Pounds. 

Articles  of  luxury 83 

Carbolic  acid 267 

Adornments  and  cotton  fringes *  99 

Whalebones 38 

Cotton  shirts 12,782 

Celluloid  collars  and  cuffs 12 

Bishop  lawn 8,085 

Drill  shirts 3,362 

Oil-cloth 1,752 

India-rubber  overshoes 168 

Ludies'  sewing-cases 7 

Leaden  crosses 18 

Velvet  ribbons 168 

Plated  spoons 4 

India-rubber  neckties 2 

Cotton  cords 25 

Cotton  laces ? 8,963 

Essence  Coronada 542 

Yarn 563 

Small  combs 1 

Meat  extracts 125 

Woolen  blankets 19,521 

Velvet  bonnets 125 

Glazed  muslin 11,367 


208  THE   REPUBLIC.  OF   HONDURAS. 

Pounds. 

Colored  threads 170 

Cheap  jewelry 2,432 

Muslin 1,486 

Stencil-plates 130 

Metal  lamps 10 

Medicines 37,377 

Thread  in  skeins 439 

Punks 1,687 

Necessaries 94 

Silk  umbrellas 941 

Combs 2,233 

Cotton  handkerchiefs 14,626 

Velvet 1 3, 886 

Artificial  flower  paper 569 

Percale  (white  muslin) 2,908 

Papelillo 108 

Ready-made  clothing 2,068 

Mantel  clocks 984 

Gentlemen's  hats 10,517 

Ladies'  hats 328 

Thermometers 10 

Cotton  braids 635 

Sarsaparilla  (bottled) , 189 


Total 161,906 

EIGHTH   CLASS. 

DUTY,  THIRTY  CENTS   PER  POUND. 

Pounds. 

Albums 118 

Carpets 183 

Saffron 8 

Braid..,  370 


IMPORTATIONS   OF   MERCHANDISE.  209 

Pounds. 

Pearl  buttons 416 

Woolen  sashes 4 

Linen  shirts 892 

Boots  and  shoes 23,082 

Linen  cuffs  and  collars 317 

Woolen  braids 78 

Cotton  table-covers 90 

Woolen  drawers ' 32 

Cigarette-cases 40 

Woolen  laces 20 

Patent  cigar-lighters 13 

Labels  for  bottles 230 

Woolen  fringes 17 

Woolen  caps 41 

Carpet-cloth 263 

Saddle-cloth 387 

Woolen  thread 462 

Bunting 577 

Saddle  undercloth 491 

Muslin . . .   -   2,211 

Cotton  shawls 10,759 

Purses 705 

Cotton  embroidery 758 

Gentlemen's  ready-made  clothing 3,542 

Labels 37 

Woolen  edgings 704 

Fancy  cards 218 


Total 47,065 


14 


210  THE   REPUBLIC    OF   HONDURAS. 

NINTH  CLASS. 

DUTY,  FIFTY   CENTS  PER  POUND. 

Pounds. 

Alpaca 539 

Fans 76 

Military  trappings 31 

Corsets  and  belts 905 

Cashmere 7,781 

Casinet 187 

Guitar-strings 254 

Cartridges  and  caps 1,335 

Halters  and  bridles 267 

Leather  straps 430 

Woolen  shirts 361 

Damask 159 

Spectacles 153 

Sponges    20 

Guns 1,715 

Flannel 890 

Spangles 517 

Garters 318 

Blue-mass 28 

Merino 1,896 

Cloth 1,306 

Revolvers 1,324 

Saddles 963 

Suspenders . .   .  1 44 

Tobacco 465 

Clothing  for  ladies 232 

Clothing  for  boys 52 

Scabbards 76 

Sheep-skins 282 

Total 22,712 


IMPORTATIONS   OF   MERCHANDISE. 


211 


TENTH   CLASS. 

DUTY,   EIGHTY  CENTS  PEK  POUND. 

Pounds. 

Woolen  comforters 159 

Cotton  cravats 295 

Woolen  undershirts 473 

Woolen  table-cloth 20 

Cigarettes 55 

Artificial  flowers 330 

Curtains 75 

Riding-gloves 5 

Ornaments. . . .  112 

Woolen  shawls 2,905 

Linen  handkerchiefs 180 

Imitation  wool  handkerchiefs 19 

Silk  satin 132 

High  hats 8 

Total 4,768 

ELEVENTH   CLASS. 

DUTY,    ONE   DOLLAR  AND  FIFTY  CENTS  PER  POUND. 

Pounds. 

Billiard-balls ; 21 

Silk  cravats 36 

Silk  ribbon 450 

Silk  undershirts 53 

Muslin  caps 298 

Kid  gloves  , 92 

Fine  jewelry 59 

Lute-strings 278 

"Olan" 62 

Silk  shawls 5,682 

Silk  handkerchiefs , 348 


212 


THE   REPUBLIC   OF  HONDURAS. 


Pounds. 

Silk  material 2,024 

Panama  hats '. 183 

Velvet 54 

Total 9,640 

LIQUORS. 

DUTY,    SIXTEEN  CENTS  PER  POUND. 

Pounds. 

Absinthe 2,783 

Brandy 52,071 

Cordials 182 

Rum  1 84 

Total 55,220 

DUTY,   TWENTY-EIGHT   CENTS  PER   POUND. 

Pounds. 

Alcohol 1,038 

Aguardiente 3,815 

Anise-seed  8,227 

Cognac 1,728 

Gin 4,477 

Maraschino 47 

Whisky 8,381 

Total 27,713 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Advice  to  Strangers 190 

Agriculture : 120 

Aguardiente 128 

Amapala /1& 

American  Honduras  Company 91 

American  Money 108,  184 

Aramecina yjfty.. .  68 

Area y^;^. . .  187 

Bananas 

Banks ; 

Boundaries 

Buried  Treasure f.   33 

Cabinet 109 

Canal 93 

Caratasca  Lagoon 93 

Caribs 114 

Casava  Snake 117 

Cathedral  of  Comayagua 167 

Cathedral  of  Tegucigalpa 29 

Cattle  137 

Census 102 

Cerro  de  Hule 24 

Character  of  Natives 108 

Churches 35 

Climate 37 

Clothing 45 

Coal 83 

Cocoa-nuts 125 

Coffee 127 

Comayagua 164 

Comayguela 25 

Comfortable  Living 46 

Cotton , . . .  129 

(213) 


214  INDEX. 

Page. 

Cucvas 171 

Departments 188 

Duties,  Export 134 

Duties,  Import 105 

Education 109 

El  Valle  de  los  Angeles 58 

Exportation  of  Cattle 139 

Fibre  Plants 142 

Financial  Condition. 104 

Forage 140 

Foreign  Debt  103 

Foreigners 103 

Forest  Wealth 130 

Fritzgartuer,  Dr.  Reinhold 30 

Fruits 128 

Garrapatas 154 

Geographical  Position 187 

Government  Mining  Bureau 83 

Guasucaran 60 

Hides 141 

Hogs 141 

Honduras  Progress 30 

Houses  in  Tegucigalpa 34 

Hule 134 

Importations 195 

Income  and  Expenditure 104 

Income  from  Revenues  and  Customs , 105 

Interoceanic  Railroad 103 

Islands 188 

Journey  from  Amapala  to  Tegucigalpa 11-25 

Journey  from  Tegucigalpa  to  Puerto  Cortez 149-180 

La  Leona 26 

La  Venta 21 

Lakes 188 

Literary  and  Scientific  Organizations 110 

Live-stock 136 

Logging 133 

Mails Ill 

Maroma 76 


INDEX.  215 

Page. 

Means  of  Traveling 188 

Merchandise  Impo:  ted  during  1887-83 195 

Miambur 172 

Mining  Camp,  In  a 71 

Mining  Industry 53-70 

Mining  Laws 84 

Morazan  Park 31 

Mosquitia 92 

Name 187 

Natural  Advantages 136 

Newspapers 110 

Nomenclature,  Mosquito 193 

October 42 

Opals 86 

Opoteca 68 

Orphans'  Home 80 

People  who  should  not  go  to  Honduras 80 

Pespire 18 

Pinole , 50 

Pita 142 

Population 102 

Ports 183 

Postal  Service Ill 

Poultry 142 

President  Bogran 108 

Principal  Hotels 1 89 

Principal  Mining  Companies 65-70 

Principal  Cities  and  Towns 1^8 

Proteccion 1G1 

Public  Debt 104 

Puerto  Cortez 181 

Religion 102 

Rivers,  Principal 188 

Rubber 134 

Sabana  Grande 22 

Sabana  Larga 170 

San  Juancito 54 

San  Lorenzo 15 

San  Pedro  Sula .178 


216 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Santa  Cruz 175 

Santa  Lucia 59 

Seasons 36,  190 

Sheep  141 

Social  Life  in  Tegucigalpa 32 

Society  of  Antiquities. 110 

Stamp-mills .' 84 

Steamship  lines 189 

Stories  not  to  be  credited 81 

Sugar-cane 128 

Tamales 50 

Tamara 158 

Tegucigalpa 25 

Telegraph 104 

Temperature 38,  190 

Theatre 33 

Timber  Laws 134 

.  Topography 187 

Tortillas 49 

Transportation  and  Mining  Agents 189 

Traveling  with  comfort 153 

Uabul 50 

Weddings 32 

What  to  eat 47 

What  to  engage  in 120 

What  to  wear 46 

Woods 131 

Yojoa 175 

Youre 174 

Yuscaran , 62 


SIR  EDWIX  ARNOLD'S  GREAT  POEM, 

-THE- 

LIGHT  OF  ASIA 

WITH  FULL  AND  COMPLETE  EXPLANATORY  NOTES  BY 

MRS.    I.    L.    HAUSER. 
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JOURNAL  OF 

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My  Uncle  Barbassou! 

Being  the  history  of  his  Turkish  harem  bequeathed  to  his  nephew 
in  Paris,  and  duly  chronicled  by  him. 

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